Headlights

Ive got a set of OEM hid bulbs that I'll never use out of the 96 housings I found at the JY

Nice score Kevin, they look mint. I'm not sure how you'd find some much better than those

There are people looking for those bulbs. I must say if I had found the lenses Kevin found I would have gone with aftermarket HID. Those are nice.
 
Ive got a set of OEM hid bulbs that I'll never use out of the 96 housings I found at the JY

Nice score Kevin, they look mint. I'm not sure how you'd find some much better than those

Yeah the lenses on my car now came with working bulbs but I didn't have any intentions of using them either, sold them for $75 a piece..can't believe they're worth that much and can't believe anyone would want to buy them used when they are becoming increasingly difficult to find..especially when you can just buy an aftermarket hid kit for less, but I suppose if you have original lenses bulbs and balasts all ready to go then why not.
 
Pics or it didn't happen :)

Lowes carries Ryobi heat guns for around $40


Ok it didn't happen I like that outcome!...if anyone wants a headlamp housing w/o a lens I can mail it to them! Alternatively, I could spray paint the hole thing in neon orange and use it as a coffee table ornament...Lowe's...yes, I'll go there in fact every saturday I get some peace of mind by visiting a hardware store!:)
 
Ok it didn't happen I like that outcome!...if anyone wants a headlamp housing w/o a lens I can mail it to them! Alternatively, I could spray paint the hole thing in neon orange and use it as a coffee table ornament...Lowe's...yes, I'll go there in fact every saturday I get some peace of mind by visiting a hardware store!:)

If you have a Harbor Freight Tools anywhere around you (I have one right down the street from me), they have heat guns for $13.99.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

I got mine for $8.99 with a coupon.

This accessory kit looks like it might be pretty useful as well...

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-heat-gun-accessory-kit-68695.html
 
Thanks Jay! I love Harbor Freight. Everything is from Chicago too! Suits me just fine, not being a professional! I went to the dealership...4 hrs and all they could tell me was that I had a noise...duh! They said it wasn't a safety issue...Oh well.

Separate issue...it appears my gas mileage has dropped from an average abt 22 mpg to 18. Haven't been doing that much more city driving nor have I been more lead footed...idle is fine...interesting(?). Right(pside) rear airbag is deflating slowly. Takes about 18 hours so I will take a look at that. Pumps right up when the car starts. The ride is great ...except for that clunking noise. Wish I could figure that one out! Would love to experiment with a chip..what do people recommend? :cool:
 
Thanks Jay! I love Harbor Freight. Everything is from Chicago too! Suits me just fine, not being a professional! I went to the dealership...4 hrs and all they could tell me was that I had a noise...duh! They said it wasn't a safety issue...Oh well.

Separate issue...it appears my gas mileage has dropped from an average abt 22 mpg to 18. Haven't been doing that much more city driving nor have I been more lead footed...idle is fine...interesting(?). Right(pside) rear airbag is deflating slowly. Takes about 18 hours so I will take a look at that. Pumps right up when the car starts. The ride is great ...except for that clunking noise. Wish I could figure that one out! Would love to experiment with a chip..what do people recommend? :cool:
 
Thanks Jay! I love Harbor Freight. Everything is from Chicago too! Suits me just fine, not being a professional! I went to the dealership...4 hrs and all they could tell me was that I had a noise...duh! They said it wasn't a safety issue...Oh well.

Separate issue...it appears my gas mileage has dropped from an average abt 22 mpg to 18. Haven't been doing that much more city driving nor have I been more lead footed...idle is fine...interesting(?). Right(pside) rear airbag is deflating slowly. Takes about 18 hours so I will take a look at that. Pumps right up when the car starts. The ride is great ...except for that clunking noise. Wish I could figure that one out! Would love to experiment with a chip..what do people recommend? :cool:

Describe this clunk you have a little better? Could be the shocks inside the front bags.. its a hard one to duplicate and find unless you remove the bags and shake them

Fuel mileage, check tire pressure, air and fuel filters, when was last tune up, oil change?

Chip, XCal2
 
The clunk is probably not from the front air shocks (air struts ...if you hail from Ireland ;-)). I have had them replaced along with LCA's/UCA's in the front and new front/rear radial arm bushings. For the drivetrain I have also replaced the the L/R front differential bushings and the larger single rear differential bushing. (A friend of ours tried to sell me a new beefy one for $300 but I politely declined). He did sell me a left or d side motor mount which I have not yet installed. The large rear central transmission mount has also been replaced. Those replacements reduced the clunking noise(s) significantly but a clunk noise was still apparent when I declerated rapidly or tapped down on the accerlator pedal. It has gotten worse or louder so something is failing. If I am even footed with acceleration and deceleration I don't here a noise. So it could be internal to the transmission or the differential I suppose. Nothing is obviously visible as I have had at least three mechanics drive and look at the underside as well as myself. When the car is in park and up on the rack, if you rotate either the left or rear wheel considerably there is a metallic (clunking) noise emanating from inside transmission. I thought this might be the cause as well as another mechanic. Then I took it to the dealership they drove it, verified the noise, but they said that the noise from inside transmission was normal when I demonstrated to them what I had discovered earlier at the other shop about rotating the rear wheels. Not sure...one possibility is the rear universal joint....before I do any thing more I would like to solve the problem. Rear shocks and shock towers are in good condition. Hope this long-winded reply gives a little bit better information for rumination. I don't know much about chips other than what I have read on this forum and on the 8 series bimmer forum. I try to educate myself a bit more.Thanks!
 
Replace the motor mount
I discovered mine was bad when a mech was checking the trans leak. He felt it backing out right away, then showed it to me by standing on the brake and punching the throttle. The LH side of motor bounced close to an inch or so. Replaced both sides even though the RH side was asymptomatic
 
I discovered mine was bad when a mech was checking the trans leak. He felt it backing out right away, then showed it to me by standing on the brake and punching the throttle. The LH side of motor bounced close to an inch or so. Replaced both sides even though the RH side was asymptomatic

You have a medical background don't you? Lol asymptomatic..
 
Eat darn bedder bee dem durn modder mounts...I'll git dem swarpped ouda der right quickly...soun ass I gits me my sum moanie frum me bossman! Danks fur all dat help der fellers, that all be gud sheet...:)

I have an obsession with the Mark VIII. One of the symptoms is staying up too late looking at all the purdy pictures of cars and.... women. :D This second obsession is asymptomatic of the first. It is, however symptomatic of having been married to same woman for near thirty years! Ah well!

I went to my psychiatrist and told him "everybody says I am crazy", he said "you can't be, everybody hasn't met you yet"! Rodney Dangerfield

So my headlight thread became a motor mount thread...soon as git them eyes fixed I'll followup.
 
You have a medical background don't you?.
- actually a residential construction background and a medical foreground now.....I use a gelled-up ultrasonic vibrator and Doppler velocity estimates (up to 700 cm/s-15 mph) to find diseased blood vessels....
-sick cars, sick people, sick houses...all the same, entropy prevails in the end
-----
regarding dem mudder mounts; the problem I ran into was that, on the pass side, the aftermarket part had a center stud that was about 1/4'' too long....we fought and fought to get it back together, but no deal; then read a post that described what the problem was...a 4'' grinder took that 1/4'' off the bolt and boom, subframe went right back in place
:D
 
Mine is always in the gutter... ultrasonic vibrator...no fun you can't hear it..(ha ha). So I decided to make some money(25$) for a bodily fluid donation in science study abt two yrs ago. I would be wealthy man if I had been paid every time for that kind of donation:rolleyes:...but the sound didn't work for the video. So I didn't do it. True story...yikes!

Yep, entropy gets everything in the end!

I learned how to "power brake" today. Motor rises about an inch or more on the d side w this test. Should fix me problem. I had already purchased both mounts from Rock Auto and they come w the "tsb" that one needs to modify the mount...although I mistakenly thought it was the d side mount(?) Had seen that somewheres before. Would love to lay my hands on a service manual. I am thinking what the two mounts look like too;) Ok serious stuff:

So is two hours a reasonable labor time to change out both mounts if I take it to the stealership?

They should have the proper tools and equip. I don't. They will not of course warranty their work because I have the parts.

Next will be new rear shocks...maybe I go wit de Cobra's radder dan de Moanrows?:D

Thanks!
 
Mine is always in the gutter... ultrasonic vibrator...no fun you can't hear it..(ha ha). So I decided to make some money(25$) for a bodily fluid donation in science study abt two yrs ago. I would be wealthy man if I had been paid every time for that kind of donation:rolleyes:...but the sound didn't work for the video. So I didn't do it. True story...yikes!

Yep, entropy gets everything in the end!

I learned how to "power brake" today. Motor rises about an inch or more on the d side w this test. Should fix me problem. I had already purchased both mounts from Rock Auto and they come w the "tsb" that one needs to modify the mount...although I mistakenly thought it was the d side mount(?) Had seen that somewheres before. Would love to lay my hands on a service manual. I am thinking what the two mounts look like too;) Ok serious stuff:

So is two hours a reasonable labor time to change out both mounts if I take it to the stealership?

They should have the proper tools and equip. I don't. They will not of course warranty their work because I have the parts.

Next will be new rear shocks...maybe I go wit de Cobra's radder dan de Moanrows?:D

Thanks!
personally, I can find no reason to take even my skateboard to a stealership fer repair, much less my car...if you do the job yourself or with a friend, make sure the pass side mount center stud is not sticking out 1/4'' too far...if it is you'll never get the subframe put back together...
----factory manuals are easily found on the auction site...money well-spent
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-LINCOL...anuals_Literature&hash=item257a8ce44b&vxp=mtr
 
personally, I can find no reason to take even my skateboard to a stealership fer repair, much less my car...if you do the job yourself or with a friend, make sure the pass side mount center stud is not sticking out 1/4'' too far...if it is you'll never get the subframe put back together...
----factory manuals are easily found on the auction site...money well-spent
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-LINCOL...anuals_Literature&hash=item257a8ce44b&vxp=mtr

you are right about the the dealership. thanks for the link to the service manual i will be gettting one of those.:)
 

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