Has anyone else done this to their car?

[ecarlcl]

I stupidly did this with my floor jack a while back before I was really familiar with late model unibody cars. I had a Mustang II and 2 Jeep Cherokees before my LS and it's always been obvious on those where to put the jack. Well this is me trying to stay off the pinch weld. It didn't get into the floor pan and I thankfully didn't kink the fuel lines. I've used the factory jack points with a block of wood ever since.

Maybe I'm letting it bother me too much... I've talked to a local body man about it and he said the part that's caved in is where they would put the pads for a hydraulic lift and I just put too much weight on it.

How big of a deal would this be to fix? Or should I just forget about it?

 

[04LS]

Well not to the ls BUT, I used to own a 1989 5.0 Mustang snd I knew that I was supposed to put it on the jack pad or lower rear control arm. Well my car was way to damn low to get to the LRCA so if I need to change a wheel or do breaks I used the pads and after a while i used the crap out of the pads and did what you did. On Fox bodies the LCA's bolt right there so idk about the LS.

 

[LLADNAR]

Just let it go man. Unless you plan on putting it a car show with mirrors under the car nobody but you will know and it wont hurt anything for it to be like that.

 

[paintdreams116]

if u really wanted to fix it. get it up in the air on a lift on the pinch welds. find someone with a slide hammer with a 90 degree hook adapter to go in those holes and slame it down. it wouldnt be perfect unless you mud and reprime but will be alil better. like LLADNAR said unless your showing just let it go. nobody has to know about it under there. just reread and saw your trying to stay off the pinch wleds. why?? are they rusty and wont hold up?

 

[ecarlcl]

if u really wanted to fix it. get it up in the air on a lift on the pinch welds. find someone with a slide hammer with a 90 degree hook adapter to go in those holes and slame it down. it wouldnt be perfect unless you mud and reprime but will be alil better. like LLADNAR said unless your showing just let it go. nobody has to know about it under there. just reread and saw your trying to stay off the pinch wleds. why?? are they rusty and wont hold up?

I didn't want to bend the pinch welds with my standard floor jack that wont fit in the notch for the factory scissor jack. I use a block of wood for that now and it seems to work pretty well.

Thanks for the other replies guys.

 

[paintdreams116]

long as they arnt rotten away his lift shouldnt hurt them. that body man u talked to should be able to put his lift arms under the other 3 torque boxs. the 1 thats suppose to go there under the pinch weld and get it up in the air. if the pinch weld bends alil just use a pair of channel locks or adjustible wrech and bend it back once its down. then hammer and dollie it straight agian. also if you try this yourself i would spray some rubberized undercoating on it after your done. im sure that caused the paint to crack and chip exposing bare metal. i was thinking another way to make it look better than just slide hammering it. but u would have to take that peice off and have experience drilling spot welds and welding. i wouldnt recomend trying it cause you could drill thru your floor. if u have him do it it would be more expensive cause he would have more hrs in it. it really depends on how much it buggs you and if u wanna spend the $ to fix it or not.

 

[jolinc01]

I've done it on the driver side rear. At least yours isn't because of rust, mine is.

 

[ecarlcl]

Yeah, I need to at least get some rattle can on it this spring to keep it from rusting.

 

[paintdreams116]

make sure whatever you use is direct to metal. unless u sand alil and scuff with a red scotch brite. then u could use a green acid etch rattle can primer with trim black over it. the acid etch is probably the best way to try and stop it from rusting. once rust starts its like cancer. it dont stop

 

[ecarlcl]

long as they arnt rotten away his lift shouldnt hurt them. that body man u talked to should be able to put his lift arms under the other 3 torque boxs. the 1 thats suppose to go there under the pinch weld and get it up in the air. if the pinch weld bends alil just use a pair of channel locks or adjustible wrech and bend it back once its down. then hammer and dollie it straight agian. also if you try this yourself i would spray some rubberized undercoating on it after your done. im sure that caused the paint to crack and chip exposing bare metal. i was thinking another way to make it look better than just slide hammering it. but u would have to take that peice off and have experience drilling spot welds and welding. i wouldnt recomend trying it cause you could drill thru your floor. if u have him do it it would be more expensive cause he would have more hrs in it. it really depends on how much it buggs you and if u wanna spend the $ to fix it or not.

It doesn't bug me enough to spend any real money on.

make sure whatever you use is direct to metal. unless u sand alil and scuff with a red scotch brite. then u could use a green acid etch rattle can primer with trim black over it. the acid etch is probably the best way to try and stop it from rusting. once rust starts its like cancer. it dont stop

Thanks for the tip. Thankfully, there hasn't really been any salt on the roads yet this year. I was going to wait for above freezing temperatures to try and do any rust proofing/painting.

 

[ecarlcl]

Been looking at the POR-15 starter kit. It has a bottle of prep & ready included. I think a brush on solution will be best here. That way there won't be a risk of any overspray since I'll be doing this on the floor of my garage.