Great Deal on gear sets and a ?

90boss said:
Yes I am on a hard target search for a SCT X2 for some tunes from Lonnie.

Are there less expensive tuners out there?
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SCT is it.

Its all in what you want.
X2 and mail tune is going to be the cheapest.
If your going to continue to modify the car you might want to step up to a x3 and the software to do it yourself.
Modify the car too much and a dyno tune is in order.

I run a tune from a friend, but wouldn't suggest it for people.
Folks like to play the tune blame game for issues they might be having.

If your not going to spend too much time on the freeway and are staying N/A automatic I would step up to a deeper gear as 98LSC32V suggested.
Don't fear the RPM on this engine.
 
ford nut said:
SCT is it.

Its all in what you want.
X2 and mail tune is going to be the cheapest.
If your going to continue to modify the car you might want to step up to a x3 and the software to do it yourself.
Modify the car too much and a dyno tune is in order.

I run a tune from a friend, but wouldn't suggest it for people.
Folks like to play the tune blame game for issues they might be having.

If your not going to spend too much time on the freeway and are staying N/A automatic I would step up to a deeper gear as 98LSC32V suggested.
Don't fear the RPM on this engine.
Click to expand...

Yeah i figured that SCT X2 or X3 is about the only thing going.

I was looking on the SCT website and saw the 5 position chip and wondered if that might be the way to go. I could have a cruising tune for driving to the track and race only tune for 1/4.

The drive to the track is 100 miles each way and still want this car to be freeway friendly if the Mrs. and I choose to take a road trip. I am not going for any records in the 1/4 just want to make it consistant for bracket racing.

Thanks for the input.
 
4.10s, Cobra intake, exh, j mod, slight stall, mail order tune would do just fine for that.
I would run one tune for both.
x2 would be the ticket, read codes install tune go back to stock if you wish.
 
I just called the company to make sure everything was going through the way it should. sadly i had to pay 15 for shipping instead of 10. so my total was 141 for the new FFRP 4.10 gears. ill take that. better then any price i saw on ebay and most anywhere else that didnt include shipping.
 
Markviiiedrea said:
I've only got 1k miles on her this year but I think it was only 200-300 more RPM at 70MPH.

If you’re setting up gears I would always get a rebuild kit, are you going to be using a posi unit? I'm not smart enough to build them myself but I have a local shop that has always treated me right do it.

It’s worth doing, just do it RIGHT! I spend on average of $700-$800 on a rebuild and that’s with me R&R’ing the diff.
Click to expand...
so, if I understand correctly; to change the gear, I'll want a dif rebuild kit $7-800?
then the parts/ labor ($300ish?) for the gear change?
...and I'd probably want to change to a 1 piece '93 drive shaft at the same time... another $150? p/l....
close to $1500 to change the gear?
 
ford nut said:
4.10s, Cobra intake, exh, j mod, slight stall, mail order tune would do just fine for that.
I would run one tune for both.
x2 would be the ticket, read codes install tune go back to stock if you wish.
Click to expand...



This winters budget:
I've done the jmod
doing 4.10 and trac lock now
next is dual exhaust
I think I will do a custom tune when I find and X2

Next winter I will do a cobra intake and a convertor.
 
Trippen Out said:
I just called the company to make sure everything was going through the way it should. sadly i had to pay 15 for shipping instead of 10. so my total was 141 for the new FFRP 4.10 gears. ill take that. better then any price i saw on ebay and most anywhere else that didnt include shipping.
Click to expand...

At least you saved on the tax.

I received my gears this morning.






.
 
dnsherrill said:
so, if I understand correctly; to change the gear, I'll want a dif rebuild kit $7-800?
then the parts/ labor ($300ish?) for the gear change?
...and I'd probably want to change to a 1 piece '93 drive shaft at the same time... another $150? p/l....
close to $1500 to change the gear?
this would not be a job I want to 1st time self-teach on my daily driver
btw, my '96 has 173k on the clock; still all orig drivetrain
Click to expand...

Gears $140
rebuild kit $70
Used trac Lock $70-100
trac lock rebuild kit $100
Labor to have them swapped $? Lets say $300

$700 or so

I found a track lock that has been rebuilt for $75 and unless my mechanic says I need the other 8.8 rebuild kit I will be using whats in the car as it only 118,000 miles.

I hope to be done with the whole deal for under $500






.
 
New 8.8 Ford TarcLocs are only $200ish. Unless you get a used one for real cheap I would just get a new.

Last diff I had assembled by a speed shop cost $200 for labor.
 
90boss said:
This winters budget:
I've done the jmod
doing 4.10 and trac lock now
next is dual exhaust
I think I will do a custom tune when I find and X2

Next winter I will do a cobra intake and a convertor.
Click to expand...

Just what I like...a man with a plan
 
90boss said:
Gears $140
rebuild kit $70
Used trac Lock $70-100
trac lock rebuild kit $100
Labor to have them swapped $? Lets say $300

$700 or so

I found a track lock that has been rebuilt for $75 and unless my mechanic says I need the other 8.8 rebuild kit I will be using whats in the car as it only 118,000 miles.

I hope to be done with the whole deal for under $500


.
Click to expand...


i picked up my trak-loc for 100 freshly rebuild with extra strong clutches. for 100. the gears are 141. to have them installed with a rebuild kit in my are the cheapest i could find was 380 dollars. so 500 might be doable if ya get a good deal on the install. its advisable to use the rebuild for the bearings and all that nifty crap inside the housing as well.
 
Trac Lok I can use will be 28 or 31 spline?
'96 Mark VIII base
 
Yesterday I was quoted 300 plus a shim kit to set up the gears on my third member and thats with me taking it out of the car and bringing it in to him. He wants 550 if I bring the car. Both are more then I hoped they would be.

Any of you MN guys know how to set up gears? I have a heated pole shed with air tools and can get whatever other tools needed!!





.
 
I talked to my mechanic today; to cut costs he suggested:
-get a good used 3.55 from an Explorer at the JY...($50)
- rebuild my differential if it's a 'L' (limited slip differential) I have to look at mine to see if there's an 'L" stamped in the #
-labor:$200
...
so my questions are:
-why shouldn't I use a used Ford ring and pinion if it looks like it's in very good shape?
-why is a trac lock better than the ltd. slp dif that's in there now?
...
I decided to go with the 3.55 as this is still my daily driver, getting about 500 miles per week; I need to maintain a decent avg. mpg
 
Right on the Mark said:
3.55's really not enough gear for a heavy high rpm MK8. You can use any trac lock thats 28 spline. FYI the side gears in an IRS trac lock have a bevel on the inside of them to allow CV shafts to pop out easy. I machined mine bevels into my mustang trac lock.
Click to expand...
just talked to a guy who said I won't notice any difference with a change from 3.08 to 3.55....so I guess 3.73 is what I want...driving about 450 hwy miles/week, over half of it at 75mph
...
I bought this for 85 today, so i guess I'm in now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/28-SPLINE-F...-/170934028029?ssPageName=ADME:L:COSI:US:1123
 
I currently run 3.55s and am happy.
But i would recommend 3.73 if you still want to maintain ok mileage and a better seat of you pants feel.
You can get used 3.73 from a ranger or explorer and a few others.
 
I get differing opinons frm almost everyone i ask...some say 3.55 wil be the same as 3.08...others say it has to be 4.10...like most mods....trial and error, try again...$$$$$
so far, evryone i as about the labor....$500 labor and bearings if i provide gears and trac loc
...
btw, it's okay to change gears and rear end WITHOUT doing a J-Mod?
 
dnsherrill said:
I get differing opinons frm almost everyone i ask...some say 3.55 wil be the same as 3.08...others say it has to be 4.10...like most mods....trial and error, try again...$$$$$
so far, evryone i as about the labor....$500 labor and bearings if i provide gears and trac loc
...
btw, it's okay to change gears and rear end WITHOUT doing a J-Mod?
Click to expand...

Its all in what you want out of the car.
Its been hashed over so many times its not funny.

If its never fast enough, your staying N/A auto, get the 4.10s or deeper depending on freeway use.
I drive 80 miles a day, rain or snow, have 4.10s and love them, wish I went deeper.
Most of that is freeway, I drive hard. I get 19 MPG.

You can do your gears without a j mod, but a j mod is more important to do if you want to get life out of your trans.
 
Toss aside all of the old school muscle car fuel consumption figures when it comes to fuel mileage. These cars are vastly different and much more sophisticated. You will be happy with a steeper gear like 4.10s and you will not go broke putting gas in it. I can name a few Mark8s even with blower setups that are getting 20+ mpg freeway. The decision is in your court of course, but don't overdramatize the effects of 4.10 gears. It's going to make a much bigger difference in terms of performance than it will in your gas mileage. ;)
 
chris2523 said:
screw 3.55s. and 3.73 is the pansy compromise gear. get the 4.10s.
Click to expand...
which one of you high-rollers is gonna fill up my tank every other day?...if all my driving (500/week) was non-traffic jam highway driving, I'd get 25 mpg, not 19....with that equation a 4.10 will knock me from 21-22 down to around 15-17 (because of traffic jams).....
also, with 173.5k, and a leaking front seal of the tranny; I may consider having the tranny dropped, rebuilt, j-modded, and the rear end rebuilt...why change the gears if it's just gonna kill my tranny in a few thousand miles? Unless the j-mod can be done for a couple hundred without dropping it
 
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