Gotta a good deal on an XCAL2

dnsherrill

dnsherrill

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unfortunately it's locked...I wonder how much I'll pay to have it unlocked
 
if you send it to sct i think they will do it for 150$ i think. where did you get it?
 
it originally came from Tru Dyno Tune north of Charlotte, NC....I bought it for $90 from some SFB off craigslist..the car the tune is on is awol...I'm still talking to the kid, so he may come clean and get flush...I'm a bigger SFB for not knowing what 'status: aftermarket' means BEFORE buying it
 
I think their is a guy on the SVT forum that can unlock.them too. Frenchi is his user name I believe.
 
Talked w/ SCT today...nothing..$150 to unlock, no credit towards an XCAL3....did find a shop who 'should' be able to unlock it.then do a custom tune for 2 bills....I'll be into 290 or 260...the kid says he's gonna send me a check for 30 since he basically lied to me..my bad for not researching 'status:aftermarket'
 
if its the first generation xcal2 you can unlock it yourself with software from SCT, if its the newer gen, you cant
 
thanks, do you know how to tell the difference between 1st and 2nd? or what the software is called?
 
dnsherrill said:
thanks, do you know how to tell the difference between 1st and 2nd? or what the software is called?
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not sure if this is the only indicator but the very first ones did not have a backlight, those i have unlocked several of in the past.

I am not sure if any of the backllit models can be unlocked.

is it a 9400 or 9415? or something else.
 
9400...is backlit..prolly gonna use the orig supplier in NC to resolve and build a custom tune...200
 
so It's unlocked, he put a custom tune on it (2, actually- one for 93, one for 87)....I've read where guys talk about their tune is running it rich...is this something I can change?
 
90boss said:
Unless you have an AF gauge how would you know it is running rich?
I don't know. :confused:
.....it 'seems like the mileage is less since I installed it. But it's only been about 40 miles so far, and intown driving. i won't know for sure until a few tanks go through it and I drive modestly
Click to expand...
 
Get a laptop and a USB cord. Get some live data! Oh, you can also sniff your exhaust. JUST DONT DO IT A LOT! Not that I should have to say that, but the nose can do wonders to determine if you are leaving raw fuel behind.

Other option is to just disconnect an known good O2 sensor after the cat. They dont talk to the computer to adjust fuel mixture, just there to make sure the cats are working. With that sensor you can get simple voltage readings. Based on those readings you can determine the fuel mixture ratio. This is actually the way it is done on a Mercedes since the sensor directly controls mixture. And for the record, I have a Ford Mustang O2 sensor in my Benz and have done this many times.
 
yep, Data Logging is one of the functions I plan to explore..right now I'm super stoked at how it shifts and stays in (3rd?) a lot longer...no regrets on the the $260 I have invested
 
If you decide to get into tuning on your own, well it can be overwhelming and yet very gratifying. I have the Racer Pro software to use with an XCal II. It sucks that I can not legally sell the software. And its tied to my EPB2 (or something like that) ECU code.

I ended up making some pretty wicked tunes. The result was a retired SCT chip, which is now gathering dust. Ah, memories...
 
dnsherrill said:
yep, Data Logging is one of the functions I plan to explore..right now I'm super stoked at how it shifts and stays in (3rd?) a lot longer...no regrets on the the $260 I have invested
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It should stay in 3rd till you let it have 4th. Does your OD button not work? I had that problem with mine. Mine shifts at 6000 at WOT.
 
PenGun said:
It should stay in 3rd till you let it have 4th. Does your OD button not work? I had that problem with mine. Mine shifts at 6000 at WOT.
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my OD works, stays in 3rd till around 60-70 mph....I'm still figuring out how to drive this 'new' transmission...before it would always shift down around 40 moh, to about 12-1500 rpm's....mushy pedal
 
dnsherrill said:
my OD works, stays in 3rd till around 60-70 mph....I'm still figuring out how to drive this 'new' transmission...before it would always shift down around 40 moh, to about 12-1500 rpm's....mushy pedal
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Mine will shift down at 100 mph if in 4th and shown WOT.

I drive mine about in my rural area at about 45 mph a lot of the time. I use my OD button a lot and let it have 4th at just over 40 if it's a flat road. I hit it again if I have to slow down or need some power for whatever reason.
 
what I meant was, my OD works, but for now I don't use it except on the highway, cruising over 60mph..trying to stay over 1500 rpm's to minimize the drone..
okay, so I don't know what 'WOT' is..wide open throttle?
when I installed my tune there were multiple option parameters regarding WOT and different parameters. I didn't know what those are so did not select any
 
dnsherrill said:
what I meant was, my OD works, but for now I don't use it except on the highway, cruising over 60mph..trying to stay over 1500 rpm's to minimize the drone..
okay, so I don't know what 'WOT' is..wide open throttle?
when I installed my tune there were multiple option parameters regarding WOT and different parameters. I didn't know what those are so did not select any
Click to expand...

Yes WOT is wide open throttle. The EEC does all kinds of stuff when you crank your TPS (throttle position sensor) wide open. It clutches your air conditioning should it be on, among other things, to allow maximum power.

I plan a Quarterhorse in the new year myself. I have been getting all the stuff to make my car not broken and some bits were expensive. I have all that now and I'll have some money in the new year. Computers are kinda my toy.
 
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