Fuel Pump

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ladenblowfish

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Hey guys, I'm gonna have to replace my fuel pump pretty soon. Which pump do you guys recommended that is close to a direct fit with allmost no modification? Plus where do you guys recommended buying it from?
 
96-97 cobra fuel pump part #GSS342
94-98 Fuel pressure regulator part #KIR5018 option B for 96-97 32 valve 4.6L
 
if it is a gen 1 then u take a Walbro a gen 2 then you take an svt fouse fual pump i think
 
PIMPLINC said:
Walbro Fuel pump

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=36187&highlight=fuel+pump

I did buy mine from JD's performance only cost me 90.00 shipped & I live in Canada
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=436&fcmd=item&inmake=0
and the regulator is backordered for a couple weeks
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=77&fcmd=item&inmake=0
hope it helps

The OEM one is %$^&#$ STUPID PRICED......
Click to expand...

Link/phone number for JD's performance?

Am 99% sure my problems are fuel related, don't want to pay the $300 Cdn for a fuel pump from the Furd dealer, much less whatever they want for a regulator.

$90 shipped for a fuel pump is a BARGAIN!
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
here we go again! :-) do a write up!
Click to expand...

*joking grin*

"YOU" should do a write up Abe!

I mean, it'd be a gesture of "giving back" to the community that helps you out in your TIMES of need...only seems fair..right?

You have 332 posts, how many of those end in ?

Abe I'm just givin ya a hard time bro.
 
yooooooooooooooo thats low! i would have but in my own way i showed what was wrong with the write ups for gen 1's... i guess when my levler float comes in ill go through it all again
 
...yea, and make certain you have your camera ready, you sound like you are good at dropping that tank by now.:joke
 
I think next time the rear bolts stay in for me.... I dropped all four out. Well, since I have the WRONG filter on the dang thing I am guessing I will be dropping the tank again too!
 
Ohhh boy cranks are gettin a lil longer now... Think I will be next in line for this fun filled project.
 
i dont know whats good... but after having this walboro - it takes a bit longer for me to start my car then before - granted i have a small vac leak and i guess my o2 sensors are going but i just wanted to throw that on there just in case anyone else experienced that with the walboro. its just slightly longer, yea i know i know i need to check the fuel pressure - but moneys tight right now.
 
unity said:
I think next time the rear bolts stay in for me.... I dropped all four out. Well, since I have the WRONG filter on the dang thing I am guessing I will be dropping the tank again too!
Click to expand...

ok heres what I did, and most on this forum because I ask too many questions so ill through some facts on.

this is like my rough draft for the Gen 1 walboro write up, feel free to agree disagree correct me - because im just jotting this all down before i fine tune it.

also do this with your car almost on empty, unless you like gas spilling... makes the job that much easier - as some will definetly tell you.

Pop the hood, go to your factory manual that will show you exactly where your fuse for your fuel pump is. pull that fuse - its in the black box near the battery that houses the hi watt fuses - its a yellow one 25 i think? before two reds, but double check to be sure. crank the car- this will allow unused gas to cycle through. after doing this crank it again to make sure all gas it out.

next go to the Schrader valve, its a black cap - like three times the size of one that would go on your tires - untwist and youll see a valve with that you can press with a phillips or smaller screw driver to relieve the fuel system pressure - there wont be much because youve already cranked it.

another way instaed of pulling the fuse, is going to the back of the trunk and going behind on the drivers side matt (and pushing up on the gas shut off switch) the fuse way is much easier, i did it that way but to each his own.

next step - take the the negative cable off of the battery - and secure it away from being able to touch again.

jack the car up towards the middle on the frame - Get a good jack if your cars lowered because it takes a lot to get that beast up in the air enough to slide under there comfortable.

- dropping the exhaust - theres two rubber things on either side of the mufflers which you push and pull to get it off the metal hook that holds it. Or if your like me and can't get it the first time, i just unbolted the one side. (if you cant wiggle the rubber thing out the hanger.

go to the midpipe - and unbolt the exhaust there, its like two 15 or 13mm bolts i believe, and bam your exhaust is off.

now - take your jack (of course your car has to be on jack stands) and jack up on the gas tank slightly so it supports it but isnt crushing it.

unbolt 13mm strap towards the front of the car, like me youll see a strap in plain view, the one on the passenger side. the other on the drivers side is harder to spot but its there. Unbolt both of those.

-lower the jack slightly - the tank will be loose and come down a bit, but youll have to fight it a bit for it to competely fall because its wedged a bit where it sits.

ok now youll see the fuel pump housing and another gas return housing, the fuel pump housing has a metal ring around in and thicker lines running to it.

you can pull off the two that attatch to the gas return line (doenst have fluid)

the two that actually hook to the fuel pump do have fluid and those have to be unhooked with small flat head screw driver - dont break or lose the clips because you need them to reinstall. also if your having trouble, you can just leave them on but it will make the job a bit harder to manuever the fuel pump housing once you have the fuel pump housing out of the fuel tank.

unhook the fuel pump harness from the fuel pump, mine was tucked under the protective covering of the fuel tank.

take a hammer and medium size screw driver, and stroke the notches that hold the fuel pump housing into the fuel tank - i believe its counter clock wise, ill edit later

once you pop it off you pull the old pump out of the tank, from there you unbolt with 8mm bolts from the housing, slide the walboro on there, fit with new fuel line from a local parts store - i personally suggest bringing the old piece in there to get the right size, i think its 5/16th hose? get clamps a little bit bigger so it allows you to clamp it down tight.


Do not reuse the stock clamps and tubing from the walboro to the bracket - because itll split, and youll have to redo it again.

use the fuel sock that comes with the walboro pump. to fit this while reuising the rubber isolator (the rubber coat the stock fuel pump is wearing) you will have to cut the bottom of that rubber isolator to allow the fuel sock to fit on. mine ripped so i didnt even put it on. put the clamp that holds the stock pump to the bracket.

It you're having trouble sliding the walboro onto the new bracket you can break off one of the prongs or dremmel it down so it fits, because the walboro is wider. i was able to fit it on but pressing hard.

be careful with the levler float, my suggestion is instantly disconnect it from the harness when you pull it out the fuel pump. i broke mine off because when i took the fuel pump bracket out the wire broke off from the soder point on the guage attatched to the levler float.

now plug everything back. and go back through the steps the opposite way.
 
i brought it back cuz im having longer cranks ever since i did my install of the walbro which was way back when, and I still havn't got it addressed. Anyone got any ideas on this? It never starts up the way it used to before I messed with it. Does the tank have to be pressurized? Does that have something to do with long cranks. Perhaps that gasket that goes underneath the housing between the tank could be the culprit!
 
So you say

Damn longer Cranks...

and we are supposed to have any clue as to what in the hell you are talking about?
 
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