Ordering a set of Moog's for the LS from Advance Auto after work today. $54.99 each. Was just wondering if it is going to be a pain in the ass or not. I'd assume it would be a simple remove and replace procedure. But just wondering if the endlinks will be under load/pressure upon swapping them out, and if there's a recommended procedure other than simply unbolting and installing? Thanks guys
Front Sway Bar End Links
- Thread starter SoulSoak
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jjcool00
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I am not sure how to copy paste the direct link, but you can find the procedure along with the torque specs here:
http://deneau.info/ls/
http://deneau.info/ls/
Nice, seems incredibly simple. And 45 lb-ft. Thanks for the link.
RigsLS
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Yeah the front end links are a joke, it's the sway bar bushings that can be a bit of a pain.
1LoudLS
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the hardest part for me was getting the old ones off, the shaft just kept spinning in the ball joint. there was too much rust and crap to get a wrench on the end of it to hold the shaft straight, ended up having to use a wicked strong set of vice grips to hold it. best part of the moog parts is the hex nut at the base of the threaded shaft so not a problem putting them back on (or whenever they need to be replaced again)
RigsLS
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I just did my rears last weekend and same thing also, they both started to spin and I thought damn this is just what I need, however after getting the wrench on the bottom and some Moovit penetrating fluid all over them, they came of somewhat easily. Still don't own a sawzall (yet)!
1LoudLS
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thats the only way I got my rears off... I was able to get the nut just loose enough to get the blade of my air saw in there and zip it right off!
or was that the rear toe links?!?
oh well one of those two jobs was easy, the other needed the saw...
RigsLS
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Was just going through my pics, couple of years ago, but looks like I did cut my fronts but not on the nut end.
Think we zipped them off with a torch, can't remember now. back in the "let's drink beer and work on my car" days!
Think we zipped them off with a torch, can't remember now. back in the "let's drink beer and work on my car" days!
Pictures of rear links
I did this same repair over the course of a month I started with the rear and then moved to the front I actually got my parts on Rockauto and I used a Moog part that was exactly like the parts pictured above for the front, I paid about $30 for the pair and shipping for the front . I had a horrible hollow knocking noise in the front when I hit small bumps or driving on a rough road it was very loud and could be heard as I drove by and it could be heard on the inside as well. I could even feel it through the gas and brake pedals slightly. I had already replaced the top control arms and lower ball bearings on each side and I thought that fixed the problem but turns out it was the front stabilizer bar links or bushings i think is the other term. They are kinda tough to get off because the ball joint spins when taking them off especially the OEM part and lack of space so I had to use a rotary tool to cut the ones off the back and one on the front. The easy way is to start taking them off and once the nut gets tight and no longer wants to move, take a pair of locking pliers and hold it down on one side and then use the rotary cutting tool to the stud off on the bolt side, save yourself some energy and muscle and it shortens the time for this project, just be sure not to cut anything other than the bar links that your replacing. Also after I placed the car on my jack stands I used my floor jack to lift up the support to relief any tension so that the links were easier to remove. Thats how my repair went on this particular issue hope this helps. Do not use a cutting tool on wet parts sprayed with any loosening chemicals due to risk of fire and the sparks from the cutting tool if so wipe it all up before using cutting tool just another helpful tip.
I did this same repair over the course of a month I started with the rear and then moved to the front I actually got my parts on Rockauto and I used a Moog part that was exactly like the parts pictured above for the front, I paid about $30 for the pair and shipping for the front . I had a horrible hollow knocking noise in the front when I hit small bumps or driving on a rough road it was very loud and could be heard as I drove by and it could be heard on the inside as well. I could even feel it through the gas and brake pedals slightly. I had already replaced the top control arms and lower ball bearings on each side and I thought that fixed the problem but turns out it was the front stabilizer bar links or bushings i think is the other term. They are kinda tough to get off because the ball joint spins when taking them off especially the OEM part and lack of space so I had to use a rotary tool to cut the ones off the back and one on the front. The easy way is to start taking them off and once the nut gets tight and no longer wants to move, take a pair of locking pliers and hold it down on one side and then use the rotary cutting tool to the stud off on the bolt side, save yourself some energy and muscle and it shortens the time for this project, just be sure not to cut anything other than the bar links that your replacing. Also after I placed the car on my jack stands I used my floor jack to lift up the support to relief any tension so that the links were easier to remove. Thats how my repair went on this particular issue hope this helps. Do not use a cutting tool on wet parts sprayed with any loosening chemicals due to risk of fire and the sparks from the cutting tool if so wipe it all up before using cutting tool just another helpful tip.
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