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olddavid

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I'm having the grinding noise indicative of wheel bearing failure. I went to Baxter's and looked at the replacement hub, and it looks as though it is a pressed fit. Yet, when you guys change to the Mustang hubs, I never hear of this process. Am I missing something? The machined inner surface looks like it mates to a spindle-like assembly, but I haven't started tearing my old one down. I want to have it back on the road in one day, so any inside tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
They showed you a rear hub if there were splines.....

Front hub is held on by a spindle nut.

arb513092_1.jpg
 
olddavid said:
I'm having the grinding noise indicative of wheel bearing failure. I went to Baxter's and looked at the replacement hub, and it looks as though it is a pressed fit. Yet, when you guys change to the Mustang hubs, I never hear of this process. Am I missing something? The machined inner surface looks like it mates to a spindle-like assembly, but I haven't started tearing my old one down. I want to have it back on the road in one day, so any inside tips would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

Front hubs are easily bought as entire assemblies so there's no pressing on your part. Pop the old one off, pop a new one on right out of the box and you're done. Timken front hub assemblies are about $60 on Amazon last time I ordered one.
 
As usual, you guys took the guesswork out of the process. The hub looked too easy to believe, as I haven't changed one since the days you had the bearing come out every time the spindle nut and key came out. I hate to admit I've paid the locals when I had a failure several years ago, and this was the first one I've attempted since about 1970. The way my rear axle nut looks, you're probably right about that one being a bear to change. Thank heaven its the front. Thanks to all. This jewel will be on the road - without the grinding noise - tomorrow.
 
olddavid said:
As usual, you guys took the guesswork out of the process. The hub looked too easy to believe, as I haven't changed one since the days you had the bearing come out every time the spindle nut and key came out. I hate to admit I've paid the locals when I had a failure several years ago, and this was the first one I've attempted since about 1970. The way my rear axle nut looks, you're probably right about that one being a bear to change. Thank heaven its the front. Thanks to all. This jewel will be on the road - without the grinding noise - tomorrow.
Click to expand...

The rear kind of sucks since the hub is embedded in a non-replaceable part. I just pulled the thing off the control arms and brought it to a machine shop. Gave them the bearing + motorcraft hub + whatever you call it part of the car, I can't think of the name right now, and they had it done in an hour for $20. Popped it back on the car.
 
soduka said:
The rear kind of sucks since the hub is embedded in a non-replaceable part. I just pulled the thing off the control arms and brought it to a machine shop. Gave them the bearing + motorcraft hub + whatever you call it part of the car, I can't think of the name right now, and they had it done in an hour for $20. Popped it back on the car.
Click to expand...

Spindle, the word we are looking for is spindle. :)
 
Finally got to it this morning and found the nut holding the hub assembly looked like it has an outer crush locking type collar on it. Can I remove this with a chisel or just prying or does it come off with the nut? The replacement doesn't come with this piece. I'm a little reluctant to muscle it off without hearing I won't need a new sub-assembly when I am finished.:)
 
Spindle nuts are one time use anyway. The cage is part of the nut. Just replace the nut with a new one.
 
They are not two nuts. The picture is misleading, the flat nuts are the pieces to the nut as a whole.
The new one will have a cage around the individual flat nuts you see in the picture.
 
I'm wondering what's up, too? The replacements sold by AutoZone, Oreilly's, Baxters, and NAPA are all the brass-type OnlyTony has shown. But, my car has the type SlowMarkVIII has shown with his post. I'm a great believer in keeping a good thing, so switching in the middle of the gig seems foolish. Lincoln dealer? I try to stay away from them since on my previous car (a 95) their idea of fixed cruise was to disconnect. Huh? I fused it myself. I realize 240 foot-pounds should hold anything on, but why chance it if it is only a case of spending a little extra $$$. What say you out in LVC Country? I've got a week to figure it out while I wait for the $50 Timkens to come from back east. Locally they wanted $54 for Parts Master, who has a rep for less than long life - at least on the tie rod ends we put on a friends pickup. Timken has to be better, or am I fooling myself? ps- Thank you for the education, everybody. I've clicked all contributors.
 
PartsGeek $53.35 with free shipping. Plus, I found a step by step piece on Lincolns Online that shows the method with a chisel, bending the cage pieces back and then removing the two back to back nuts - complete with pictures. I may be wrong, but isn't one nut of larger surface area superior to two small ones? Maybe the replacements are superior to the factory?
 
olddavid said:
PartsGeek $53.35 with free shipping. Plus, I found a step by step piece on Lincolns Online that shows the method with a chisel, bending the cage pieces back and then removing the two back to back nuts. I may be wrong, but isn't one nut of larger surface area superior to two small ones? Maybe the replacements are superior to the factory?
Click to expand...

Can you fwd the link to Lincolns on Line wher you found the article David? Thanks so much. Have to get the rears done too.
 
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