Front End Coil Conversion

yea i have a great friend who helps me with the majority of the work on the car. did you need compressors to get the springs into the back. also let me ask you since you have the same set up. did you notice an increase in road noise switching from the air ride over. it seams like with just the fronts anything i hit is much louder now.
 
when i did mine

Trippen Out said:
yea i have a great friend who helps me with the majority of the work on the car. did you need compressors to get the springs into the back. also let me ask you since you have the same set up. did you notice an increase in road noise switching from the air ride over. it seams like with just the fronts anything i hit is much louder now.
Click to expand...

I removed the sway bar link nut at the bottom and the bottom shock bolt - kinda had to shove the top of the spring and use a flat screwdriver to center the top plate or get it in the right hole - went right in - then put the floor jack back under it guiding the sway bar link back in it's hole - then the bottom shock bolt - bout 35 minutes a side - what took longer was taping up the sensor wires and air hoses and hiding them up somewhere!

problem solved.jpg
 
Trippen Out said:
I might as well just make this my full conversion thread. Today I received my spring isolators from DLF along with the prothane isolators to go with them. its a top and bottom view of the perches

Thanks again for taking the time to make these.
Click to expand...

You're quite welcome, I appreciate the business. :)

Tokico 1.25 Lowering Kit /w DLF Perches - Half Installed.

Fixed that for you.
 
Trippen Out said:
yea i have a great friend who helps me with the majority of the work on the car. did you need compressors to get the springs into the back. also let me ask you since you have the same set up. did you notice an increase in road noise switching from the air ride over. it seams like with just the fronts anything i hit is much louder now.
Click to expand...

No, no spring compressors needed for the rear, you can drop the rear control arms plenty far to get the springs in. And I didn't notice any more or less noise from mine..sounded the same..just feels much better. Maybe something else is worn in the front suspension causing the "noise".
 
Its completed here are two crummy pictures :)

553842_508340505857779_1549631576_n.jpg

423095_508307699194393_514860383_n.jpg


wasnt so bad. accept we got our ass kicked by those cotter pins the car is certainly more loud then being on the air system however cruising along at 90 felt like i was just gliding down the street.

im kinda eager to see what its like and how it sits once it all settles in
 
Trippen Out said:
wasnt so bad. accept we got our ass kicked by those cotter pins...
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that. :(

The trick is to insert them from the front. Just lay them down and then pop them in with a screw driver or narrow drift. ;)
 
DLF said:
Sorry to hear that. :(

The trick is to insert them from the front. Just lay them down and then pop them in with a screw driver or narrow drift. ;)
Click to expand...

yea the problem was getting the hole to poke above the plate we ended up having to grind down a little bit of the pin to make it flat and skinny and use it kinda live a shive then beat the crap out of it with a bunch and a hammer till it popped.


all in all its in there and everything is completed now.
 
Sorry you had such a hard time doing this dude. I haven't logged in on my computer in the last couple days otherwise I would've chimed in as well. I've done 3 conversions so far all by me self! Just like you, the 1st car was the hardest. The other 2 were a breeze.
 
UltimateSVT said:
Sorry you had such a hard time doing this dude. I haven't logged in on my computer in the last couple days otherwise I would've chimed in as well. I've done 3 conversions so far all by me self! Just like you, the 1st car was the hardest. The other 2 were a breeze.
Click to expand...

it was all pretty simple except pushing those damn pins in. each side took like 20-25 minutes to get where the clips had to be put in and then it took anouther 40 minutes to an hour to actually get em in. no biggie tho not like me and my friend were in a hurry we were just chilling out. was pretty dark tho but thats why they make 1000 watt lights :)
 
Trippen Out said:
yea the problem was getting the hole to poke above the plate we ended up having to grind down a little bit of the pin to make it flat and skinny and use it kinda live a shive then beat the crap out of it with a bunch and a hammer till it popped.

all in all its in there and everything is completed now.
Click to expand...

Are you saying that the hole in the clevis pin wouldn't protrude enough above the sheet metal to allow the pins to install?

The sheet metal in that area is roughly .090" thick. I use a .095" washer to QC the depths of the holes that I make for the clevis pins during manufacturing.

If the hole in the clevis pin didn't protrude far enough above the sheet metal, then the most likely possibility that I can think of is that the sheet metal around the hole was slightly concave. This could have been verified using a straight edge. The fix in this case would be to use a small pry bar to massage the sheet metal around the hole to make it flush with the surrounding sheet metal.

I wish that you would have contacted me prior to modifying the clevis pins, I wouldn't want you to have done anything that isn't going to be safe.

Here's an old pic showing the pin and clip installed, back when I was using 7/16" bolts instead of the clevis pins.

HPIM0774.JPG
 
DLF said:
Are you saying that the hole in the clevis pin wouldn't protrude enough above the sheet metal to allow the pins to install?

The sheet metal in that area is roughly .090" thick. I use a .095" washer to QC the depths of the holes that I make for the clevis pins during manufacturing.

If the hole in the clevis pin didn't protrude far enough above the sheet metal, then the most likely possibility that I can think of is that the sheet metal around the hole was slightly concave. This could have been verified using a straight edge. The fix in this case would be to use a small pry bar to massage the sheet metal around the hole to make it flush with the surrounding sheet metal.

I wish that you would have contacted me prior to modifying the clevis pins, I wouldn't want you to have done anything that isn't going to be safe.

Here's an old pic showing the pin and clip installed, back when I was using 7/16" bolts instead of the clevis pins.
Click to expand...


its all good and that was the case is it was concave a little we tried to pry it down as best as we could. the cotter pin is what was modified and not by much just took the roundness and made it flat like a wedge so we could start it through the hole of the pin and then just bashed it through it just took a while is all. everything is locked in place and the cotter pins are not gonna slide out of the holds either so no worries about saftly.
 
DLF, I responded to your question on the other thread..I too had trouble pushing the pin in far enough to stick up above the sheet metal. I just took a slight amount of material off of the recessed hole in the perches to get the pin a little father in..I didn't mess with the clip at all..maybe the 1st gen brackets to hold the rear bags in has slightly thicker sheet metal than the 2nd gen? I know the bracket on my car was flat..nothing was concaved or warped at all.
 
Maybe an older fatter version. i can kinda see what your getting at.

since im here i might as well update the thread. Ive been driving on the conversion fo about a month now. im a little sadden as the read end appears to be about a good half inch lower then the front end. even with the nice perches i received. I am having to relearn how to drive some of my streets as im constatly dragging the bottom of my front bumper on stuff too. not so sure a lowered mark viii is good for driving around stpete florida. iev even rubbed my exhase on a few drive ways that were a descent incline.

i will admit the rear of the car looks nice as low as it is. and i kind wish the front would even out with it of course i just cant imagine how much more stuff ill scrape with the bumper if it does. all these god damn speed humps and crap. i curse them all. the only place that is really a pleasure to drive is on the highway.
 
So wait, you're saying your front end is HIGHER than the rear? That doesn't make sense to me, mine is the opposite, you say the kit you bought was the tokico 1.25" lowering kit with both front and rear springs and shocks? And you installed both the upper and lower perches in the rear with both upper and lower rubber isolators?? After all of that my back end sits about a 1/4"-1/2" higher than the front. I don't know the exact measurements off the top of my head when it comes to fender to tire clearance but it SHOULD look something like my sig pic below as I saw a few other pics of mark viiis on springs with dlfs perches and isolators installed and they had about the same rake as my car. Your rear end should deffinetly not be lower than your front though, I don't understand how your front bumper or exhaust drags or bottoms out on anything if its as high as you say...post pictures of it..I'm curious now.
 
grin i just reread my last post and man i must of been high or something when typed it. im surprised anyone understood it.

anyway . it could be a weight issue in the back ill try and grab a few pics a little later.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 161 (members: 0, guests: 161)
Back
Top