? for the car audio buffs

XxbmxlsxX said:
ive been in car audio for 15 years now. every company has cheap stuff for the masses then high end stuff for people that know whats up. phoenix gold has been around for a long time and have had some of the best amps in the past. the xenons are cheap just like the kickers and most of the subs anyone on here has. now the phoenix titanium line badass. good audio costs alot, way more than anyone wants to pay when they can go to best buy and get amp and subs for $300. any decent sub costs over 200 each and any good sub amp is at least 600 and requires 2 gauge wire minimum. car audio used to be high end now its all fast and furious crap for the masses that wanna "bump" for cheap

the ls is kinda classy but not really, especially with all the pimp rides around. cheap american cars really, but i likem

im ranting......to much sugar today.................................................................................................................................
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Eh not to sound like a d!ck, but you do not need to spend all that money for a decent setup... ANd 2 guage wire? haha what the heck? How can you even determine that when it is not money specific... It is wattage specific.
 
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...+the+2009+Pioneer+Sound+Build-Off+Competition


and to back up my experience in the industry. highest points ever given at a pioneer competition. ill take pics of my buisness cards too. and pektel if you want tight hard hitting bass for a good price look into jl 8w3s or digital design 8s. i had 3 jl 8s and was the best sub setup ive had to date i even hit a 154.3 in a ported enclosure. and cuz of the small cone area they were tight and a great sq sub

subs 001.jpg
 
Gixxerboy. Are those subs on the trunk floor?
 
yes they are in the spare tire well along with amps and crossovers. i should say were as that was 3 systems ago. all setups since then have been in the tire well as i have gained decibels and sq in this location as well as still having a trunk to use
 
Nice. Did it yourself? or had it done. Thats pretty cool. I took my subs out cause I needed the trunk space. Was thinking of just putting some better ones in place of the stock ones
 
did it myself. i try and do everything on my car myself. so far the tint is the only thing i didnt do.
 
Andrizzle said:
Eh not to sound like a d!ck, but you do not need to spend all that money for a decent setup... ANd 2 guage wire? haha what the heck? How can you even determine that when it is not money specific... It is wattage specific.
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big clean power = big wire = big$$$$$


ive had sound quality cars and an spl car. ive hit 159.6 db with 4 12's and scored 18 out of 20 on a real time analyzer in usac comps. i know a thing or 2. not sure if they do the same usac stuff anymore that was 10 years ago. i worked for a high end custom shop much like unique up until a few years ago i moved to home audio install

i was just ranting about the lower quality car audio ive been exposed to in recent times. i look for stuff from like 1997 or so. im old school when amps could do a fraction of an ohm. 50 watt high current amps were like $800 but could run 4 subs and draw like 150amps. lol
 
159 huh?

What gear were you running if you don't mind me asking.

I recently compete in USACi in the south and was running a daily ground pounder.


What class were you? Was the 159.6 legal @ the dash? sealed up?

And thanks for the lesson on wire lol, heres some 0/1 runs in my street beater:

081808192901uh4.jpg


514430.jpg



What vehicle did you compete with?


;]
 
whoa. That's way too much bass for me.

gixxerboi, I really like how you described the 8" subs. I think I'm way more into sq setups than spl.
 
the setup in the pic of the 3 jls only hit a 143 but it sounded great those 8s got down to almost 20 hz. so songs like blueberry yum yum made the front window flex a bit. but i have a friend in a death metal type band and he had this song with a double kick drum and so far thats one of the only systems i have heard that could keep up with it.
 
also does anyone know how i can send a song to someone else? i would like for you guys to hear the song im talking about
 
Yep. upload it to www.sendspace.com

it will give you a download link when it's finished. Post the link here, and we can download it that way.
 
And, I was just looking at the JL 8w3 online. Says it only handles 150w rms/ 300 max. Isn't that kind of low? I mean, my amp would be too much for them.
 
like i said it was 10 years ago.i was a part of "team xtreme". i used the original Orion Xtr dual voicecoil 12's. 4 of them in a small sealed enclosure firing up into another enclosure that was angled forward and sealed all around except the front. it was bolted down and the top was braced with 2x4s cuz it would crack the mdf. powered by a Orion 250 hcca at 1/2 ohm mono. also had another 250 hcca running mb quart 3way components up front (8",4", tweet). old skool kenwood ps905 cd, orion 300psw line driver preamp, and an audiocontrol 30 band eq. 160 amp alternator and deep cycle battery. it was at the dash with the windows half way down. car was covered in dynamat, cracks were filled with expanding foam to make it good and solid. using good ole bass mechanik at about 55-60hz. my amps were "rated" at 50 watts per channel. i would win my class and overall spl usually. i was only in high school my friends ran Pro Audio here in STL they gave me product and advice i did all my installs, looked nice but not all cool like u see pros do, but i was young. all in my first car that was a 1987 cavalier baby.....sweet

before and after from when i was 15 to when i was 18. lol whats funny is people really thought that car was awesome back then
cavalier.gif


a friend of mine todd waters had a walk thru mazda with same box design, 6 xtr 15's, just 2- 225 hcca amps, 12 batteries. he went to world finals in 97 and hit 167.3db with the mic near the rearview mirror. the original orion stuff was sick then they sold out to go mainstream and took a dump. spl doesnt really tell you how "loud" the system is. i had been in the pro audio van with 12-12's in a wall right behind you. it hurt but only did 153db. the key was sealing everything so the waves all went forward at eye level and making the car as solid as possible as to not absorb the vibrations and mounting the box solid to the car for stiffness. at least thats what i think
 
pektel said:
But if I'm gonna spend 400 on a sub, I should probably just get this one, eh?

http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/10w7.aspx
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thats a good sub right there. take your rear deck sub off that way some sound can pass thru the openings. this way youll still be able to put some stuff in the trunk. dynamat the trunk make sure the license plate cant rattle also. should sound real good and clean

my buddy was selling one in the jl enclosure with a jl amp for it. im trying to see if hes still got it. ill let you know asap
 
i personally think the w6 sound better but the w7's hit harder...im in the process of dynomatting my trunk and so far just doing the trunk lid makes such a big difference
 
That's cool. Thanks for checking. Not sure I want to upgrade that much yet anyways.

So what's the thoughts on the Boston Acoustics one?
 
that boston is known as the egg. in the right enclosure its loud. one of the loudest ive heard but as far as sq it simly isnt for that. i would definatly suggest the jl. make sure the box is done right and it will blow you away. and in the future upgrade your amp when you have the cash and it will sound twice as good.
 
hey pektel... do you have any speakers in ur back deck? if not i have a wonderful idea for you....
 
i.ve thought about locating the pports to where those voids are. no i don.t have the rear deck subs. but then i have to build a box, and buy ports. i.m not so sure i like ported boxes. but i.m a novice at the whole thing, so always open to your ideas!
 
subs

hey pektel, I sent you a pm about some eclipse subs that i have laying around if you were interested...They are pretty good subs ,they are the older models from like 6 or 7 years ago.
 
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