First oil change on my V8 using Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 full synthetic

This topic is just like politics and religion... but I want to share some real information and those that wish to beat on me so be it.

This thread is riddled with misinformation. Get this out of the way, I am a valvoline fan and that started 25 years ago before I got into the business I am in now... no good reason I just am.

There is science and math but once you think about it a bit you don't need to be a scientist or chemist, unless you want to get crazy technical and start brewing or blending your own oil.

1% of the oil extracted is used for oil(engine, trans, hydraulic and so on), the rest is gas, diesel, plastic and so on.

A couple of things oil contains - Detergent, is exactly that, soap per say. Dispercent takes the dirt and suspends it in the oil so it can be carried away, preferably to the filter. Antioxidants help raise the burn point of oil. A few more I will save for another day.

Zinc... stink who cares. It is over rated for the most part. Not saying g it is not important but in a modern passenger car light truck engine there are many alternatives. Diesel engines have a real need much different mechanical need.

Additives in most all cases create more liability than they protect. Kinda hard to explain in less than 2000 words. Let's look at the financial aspect. Take $15 in conventional oil and add a $20 additive. You would be better off with $35. If you put additives in $35 Oil you should be shot. You have ruined that jug of Mobil1 ($28 actually). Oil is like a cocktail or beer, there is only so much room in the glass and each drink has their own recipe. If I make a long Island ice tea and add the wrong amount of any of the contents it will taste like crap, still get drunk... not if it is too much cola and the booze runs out of the glass! Oil the same way, there is only so much molecule room.

Pennzoil WAS a paraffin based oil way back and went to crude base in the mid to late 80's but it was too late, the damage to their reputation was already done. Specifically the sluding, no such thing as tar oil... modern day anyway. Pennzoil is the number one household prefered brand globally for conventional oil, Valvoline number 2 ...Quaker 3 ... the rest of the shares are to small to matter. Synthetics...Mobile1 has the largest share of popularity over Pennzoil by about 12%.... then comes Valvoline. After that it doesnt matter all the pieces are pretty small. Mobil1 has lost significant share over the last 4 years.

Some general facts about synthetics and conventionals regardless of brand.
"W" stands for winter not weight...
Conventional starts to burn @160 degrees, they call that oxidation. Oxidation is the yellow and brown stuff on the bottom of your valve covers, timing covers and oil pan. Synthetics do the same @ 250 degrees. Hence the reason for keeping engine AND transmission oil cool. Example for you... my old ford super duty trans ran around 160-180. My 2011 runs at 192-200 and ford likes it that way. This leads to reasoning for synthetic transfluid. You can Google and find the rate of protection degrading above these temperatures. Something like conventional hits 200 you have 10%.

Synthetics handle extremes better than conventional, hot and cold. The average car on an average day is not going to care that much. You want 200Kmiles..? Change your oil regularly and do not over heat, run hot or extend your intervals ..use good products. I have owned over 10 ford with 200k on them. No engine problems. Blah ... blah everyone has a story... I have mine:)

Oil weight is tied to protection but is also tied to the work it performs. Put 10w30 in your OHC engine with VVT. You WILL eventually have a drive ability problem, especially in colder climates. I am not saying engine failure because that is a long term thing. The oil is also hydraulic fluid and performs work. Old days the work was simply to pump up a lifter. Now we pump lifters, push chain tentioners and adjust your valve timing. Too heavy of oil will effect the way this work is performed. The flow rate... If you need a case study I can provide a little...

Mobile1 is not that great. I am not saying it is bad, it is not worth what they charge for it. Value proposition. Mobil has a lot of OEM fills, likely more than anyone else. I have worked with various automotive OEMS over the years in various ways. The decisions they make for suppliers is not always related to best price or best product, the biggest is the relatonship. It is more personal and service related than the for mentioned. Remember I am a valvoline guy for no good reason.... Pennzoil Platinum has better protection and keeps the internals cleaner. Dont take my word for it. I can't give you my information but you can find it if you really care.

Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker Platinum are the same, different bottle... not the same for the rest of the product line though.

Love it or hate it but this stuff is true. I have nothing to gain or lose by sharing. I have learned a lot from this place and it is the least I can do to help pay it forward....

Have a Merry Christmas....
 
I said this a few post ago. The bottom line was change the oil at a reg interval before it has used up its life. Its not about any special snake oil. Joer, said in the 2nd post the 30 could most likely do more harm than good.

Also note BMW and others like GM with the long 15k change intervals are now seeing real problems with it. All oils are subject to contamination. Reminds me of a thread I saw in a car forum a while back. Guy said he switched to synthetic oil and ran the interval longer. Said when he changed it, it was way darker than any other oil change he had done. So he called the oil manufacture hotline. Said the Rep told him it was because the oil was better at cleaning. So he was happy.

My 1st thought was Duh, it stayed longer thus it got dirtier due to over use of life. Actually someone said this but, best thing to do is send it out and get it analyzed for "your Car".

Now your statement about Pennzoil Platinum is debatable, because they are lacking in ACEA standards. There are many more stringents and tests involved with ACEA approval. And oils that prove out better, not lacking. Lets not even talk about API or ILSAC standards. if you know the difference. Yes PP cleans well, but there is lots of debate of its lower rating of lack, due to possibly not being able to pass wear as the reason. I know that there are both yea and nays, but it is what it is. Or not.

I've done some previous reading on that oil before, but I would not say that its a slam dunk oil, due to its ACEA approval. IMO only. And a Merry Xmas to you to.

PS: What's wrong with the Ford Motorcraft 5W-20 Blend???
 
...
Also note BMW and others like GM with the long 15k change intervals are now seeing real problems with it.....

Really??? Not that I've read. Unless you're talking about the N63 engine. IIRC, BMW has reduced that interval to 10K miles. IMHO, putting the turbos in the "V" was probably not the wisest decision. The N55 engine is still pretty bullet-proof.
 
Nothing wrong with motorcraft SB oil at all, good stuff. Run it and their filters at 3k services and it will run forever in anything.

There are 5 groups of oil. Pennzoil Platinum because of the natural gas process is uses for extracting the oil does not qualify it by base stock as synthetic, exactly with current standards. To reclassify its base stock is VERY expensive and they chose not to invest the millions of dollars. Most of the standard organizations need to revisited but again that costs time and money that most cant or won't invest, until they get enough pressure anyway....

Major oil company... Mobil, Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline.... Not major Cam2, Mystic, Kendal(?) that kind of thing. Kendal was a great oil 40-50 years ago but that time has passed, I think there was a change in ownership or something, I don't recall the event. If I recall the story another oil company bought the rights to their race oil product and has continued on under another name, their name escapes me at the moment.

Race oils are perceived as the best oil and use it in their daily driver. Bad bad bad idea. Race oil is not engineered for longevity, 2k would be a long time!

I switch my old 7.3 powerstroke to 5w40 Valvoline from regular 15w40. I ran sampling on it up to 10k miles and it was still good. I could have gone more but I was happy with 10k. This on my truck the way I drive in my conditions. What is good for me may not be good for you. The biggest problem with extended drain is that they haven't made a filter for passenger cars or light trucks that can last... I could have run to 15k or even more if changed my filter and topped it off. Truth be told laziness got to me a few times and I went over :)

All GM engines including the trucks for 2015 call for 0w20. I still have a tough time getting my head around it. I believe all of the trucks have oil coolers on them. GM also released a bulletin a few years back that any vehicle that calls for 520 they should use 0w20. At that time the trucks were all 530 so it did not apply to them at the time.

Honda has released an engine that calls for 0w16. I guess the 0w20 just couldn't cut it.... Unfricken believable.....

Secret stuff.... Before the additives are blended in it is actually clear. The color comes from the additives and dye. Valvoline for example is one of the lightest color oils. They actually add a dye to their product so you can see it otherwise it looks like thick water. This was the reason why I picked them as my favorite many years ago, like I said not for a particular good reason they are my favorite. Lol

Synthetic Blend. There is no standard by SAE or anybody else as a minimum qualifier.. It needs to have 1% synthetic stock to be classified as SB. Real synthetic blends are in the 25% plus range, major brands.

Any main stream conventional oil is technically SB. They choose not to market as such because it will confuse the consumer. Most of them will be in the 8-12% area.

In most cases you will have lower oil pressure with synthetic oil than conventional.

New engines should always be run in with conventional for a good 500 miles, or more. If not you could have some trouble getting rings to seal and other break-in issues.

High mileage oil has a bit of a different cocktail. One thing is that it has a seal sweller in it. It will not help with a trashed gasket but it does help with rubber products. It will also help soften them up a bit. If oil is running out of the crank seal replace it! It also as a different mix on the antioxidants as well as the detergents and dispersants.

They have come out with full synthetic with high mileage. That is what I run in my Mark VIII and it loves it. It seems quieter and smoother. Mostly in my head I am sure. My dads 200k 2004 f150 stopped burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles.

As you can tell most of this is nice to know, not need to know and could easily be classified as useless information for the most part.

Ignore SDS and MSDS sheets for the most part. Look at the technical data sheets and educate yourself on the testing data results they report.

If I could get everyone to take away two or three things it would be the best thing ever..... Do not extend your service intervals without sampling, according to the severe duty schedule in the owners manual. Do not add stuff to your oil, you want better protection by better oil. Do not try and be an engineer and use a weight other than what the OE calls for, with minor exception. Example. Your xxx engine has 190k and you want to use 530 synthetic instead of 520, no problem in my opinion. Worst case is that in the winter it may not like it on cold start. Actually it should not matter because of the flow characteristics of full synthetic. I would never put 530 in a 020 motor....

Good luck guys
 
Oh I forgot this funny piece... The oil companies all trade oil base stock on any given day. Shell from Valvoline, ConocoPhillips from shell, castrol from Mobil... Depends what they need and their inventory. Some sell their Type IV base stock just so they can buy the Type II from them.
 
OU812IC, the reason I listed Valvoline Synthetic as poor was a study done on synthetics compared to regular conventional oils several years ago. It was in one of the auto magazines like Road and Track,I believe. Valvoline SYNTHETIC barely was better than conventional oil in protection and not close to the Mobil I or Pennzoil etc.
When I see a study like that,I pay some attention to it.
Anyway........as I stated earlier,I change full synthetic at 9-10K miles with a filter change at about 5-6K miles during the run.
I have run many thousands of miles with 5W-30 rather than 5W-20 and that is also in sub-zero snaps here in Ohio.NO problems ever.
don-ohio :)^)
 
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=868293

Lots of horror stories to Google also. Didn't change for No reason.


http://blog.modbargains.com/15000-mile-oil-change-myth/

Good article. The 15k oil change myth.

All I know is I have a 2000 V6 LS with over 190K miles that had the oil changed yearly or every 12K-15K miles. It still burns no oil...

That second link is a little disingenuous. he is comparing an engine that went 60 THOUSAND miles without an oil change to one that went only 5K.
 
All I know is I have a 2000 V6 LS with over 190K miles that had the oil changed yearly or every 12K-15K miles. It still burns no oil...

That second link is a little disingenuous. he is comparing an engine that went 60 THOUSAND miles without an oil change to one that went only 5K.

I am glad to hear that you 2000 is doing great. I plan to give my 17 year old Daughter my 02 V* Sport with 203K, with 7000-9000 mile $23 Motorcraft manufact, reco oil and filter changes all it life.

What you asked me about was the BMW interval change. The 2nd article was about more than the 60k to 5k engine. I'm not knocking what works for anyone. I'm just not into reinventing wheels that do great jobs already.

The audio system is a different story. In fact I want to ask you so more question soon about that. Your opinion is well respected by me here, and always has been.
 
of the last three Lincolns i have had, Ive put about 250k miles on them, all with 11k-15k changes on mobile 1 EP. none of them have ever had an engine problem, they always ran very strong and they all were driven harder than a hooker on two for Tuesdays.

when the trans failed for the last time on the Mark with 190, we pulled the motor for a friend to use in another project and when we pulled the valve covers off, it looks to be in great shape.
from what Ive seen, nothing has led me to believe was any problem with longevity of that.
 
LoudLs,did you do a mid-term filter change or two during that year's driving? I am always afraid not to change the filter at least once during a 10K run. don-ohio :)^)
 
Everyone got their Christmas shopping done? ... wait!?!? ... this is not my locker!

Oil is Oil, buy what you fancy, change it often. Really, for a DD out of production LS, who cares! HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE !!! :Beer
 
LoudLs,did you do a mid-term filter change or two during that year's driving? I am always afraid not to change the filter at least once during a 10K run. don-ohio :)^)

nope. Ive used mobile 1 extended performance filters since they also claim 15k mile changes (the Mark may have been using K&N filters, its really been a long time...)
 
Okay,I understand. I will still do the changeout halfway because of my cautious nature. I also only use good motorcraft filters or equiv. and don't expect for them to perform perfectly after 5-6K miles.They are so small,compared to my Aerostar van's and my pick-up truck's which take the FL1,a much bigger filter. don-ohio :)^)
 
I am glad to hear that you 2000 is doing great. I plan to give my 17 year old Daughter my 02 V* Sport with 203K, with 7000-9000 mile $23 Motorcraft manufact, reco oil and filter changes all it life.

What you asked me about was the BMW interval change. The 2nd article was about more than the 60k to 5k engine. I'm not knocking what works for anyone. I'm just not into reinventing wheels that do great jobs already.

The audio system is a different story. In fact I want to ask you so more question soon about that. Your opinion is well respected by me here, and always has been.

The only issue is last year my mechanic said the rear bushings were soon to be in need of replacement. I rode with my daughter in PHX and thought I felt a little side-to-side floatyness. I believe that is either the shocks (they have about 80K miles on them) or the rear bushings. I plan on having it checked out and if it is the rear bushings it will be time for a "new" car.

I plan on asking my SA about the interval change. I wonder why it's only '13's and newer. I check the oil level often and it has never showed below "max". I do know there was some kind of mid-cycle change in '13, but I was under the impression it was mainly cosmetic with a few iDrive changes.

I'm not an audiophile, but I did do an upgrade to the 2000's sound system. That was some years ago, like in 2001 or 2002... Thanks for the "props"!
 
Everyone got their Christmas shopping done? ... wait!?!? ... this is not my locker!

Oil is Oil, buy what you fancy, change it often. Really, for a DD out of production LS, who cares! HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE !!! :Beer

Yep your right. In fact Im leaving this thread and getting ready to start a "My first Gas Fill up using Shell V-Power NiTRO+® Fuel thread! LOL!

Happy Holidays to you and everyone.

Ill report my finding about the difference in Nitro gas in a thread to help others.:)
 
JG,buy 93 octane,mix in a lil 89 when the price dictates and you'll be okay.LOL! don-ohio :)^)
 
You could also fill up with 89 and throw in a couple of mothballs, it'll go like snot for a little while, after that ... instant parts car. LOL



Funniest thing I read on here just yet,

This thread is riddled with misinformation ... "W" stands for winter not weight...


that plus the part where one should be shot for putting additives into perfectly good motor oil.
 
You could also fill up with 89 and throw in a couple of mothballs, it'll go like snot for a little while, after that ... instant parts car. LOL



Funniest thing I read on here just yet,




that plus the part where one should be shot for putting additives into perfectly good motor oil.

One could argue that arguing about Wax & Wax procedure might top it. Hint, hint.:) LOL!
 
If they want to spend their holidays debating motor oils, they'd be best of doing it at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ there is a dedicated forum there for belly-aching about what to or not to do with motor oil.

Myself, I'm not concerned dumping a bottle of LUCAS into Mobil1 during the summer month. As long as I don't have bullets coming at me when doing so, I'll be alright.



... arguing about Wax & Wax procedure might top it ...


Thing with car waxes is that you should go by taste and smell, really, you should be taste testing this at the store level and which ever of the one thousand wax products tastes and smells the best to you, it the one you buy!

I kid, I kid ... LOL
 
If they want to spend their holidays debating motor oils, they'd be best of doing it at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ there is a dedicated forum there for belly-aching about what to or not to do with motor oil.

Myself, I'm not concerned dumping a bottle of LUCAS into Mobil1 during the summer month. As long as I don't have bullets coming at me when doing so, I'll be alright.






Thing with car waxes is that you should go by taste and smell, really, you should be taste testing this at the store level and which ever of the one thousand wax products tastes and smells the best to you, it the one you buy!

I kid, I kid ... LOL

Here you go again on a wax debate. LOL! AKA = What did you do to your LS Today? Answer = I'm afraid to say I waxed it with _______. And next time come up in the world and use a buffer!!!!

And I am already a member at bobistheoilguy. I get very bored sometimes. Strange as it is, I still have yet to see what's the best from that site. So to me every oil but the manufact recommended one sucks. LOL!
 
Huh, I was in a wax debate somewhere on here? Hmmm... Personal preference like the oil I'm sure.
 
Tasting wax? Is this the same kid that ate glue in class? Maybe it came from eating paint chips with lead? I don't know..... Lmao
 
I grin, roll my eyes and shake my head when Oil, paint, Trucks, religion or politics comes about... Someone is going to get a black eye or ass hurt.
The 80s and 90s when I was a tech I saw a lot of vehicles go 200 and a couple 300k. You know the ones who drive a ton of miles for work and put on 35k a year commuting. Back then Mobil1 was really the only game in town. Had a early 90s chevy 2500 350 efi FedEx van than went 300k with it. Never opened the motor, not even an intake gasket... Unheard of! At the same time had a several others of various makes and models that did good ole Valvoline, castrol and Amaco oil and a napa filter go 200k. Back then it was a big deal, today if a car has a 100k on it, it is not a big deal. Funny how times and technology changes.
 

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