FALECF4'S 2002 LS V8 SPORT - Progress Thread

FALECF4

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I am starting this thread for keeping track of my own progress on this car and for anyone that would like to follow along. I always appreciate helpful advice and constructive criticism (even destructive criticism....as long as it's funny). I picked up this 2002 V8 Sport for only $350 and, overall, it is in great shape for the year and mileage (180k). My plans are to get it into daily driver condition first, start improving the looks and then adding here and there for performance.

Of course the cosmetic things are easy to spot:
broken side mirror
passenger window regulator
lower front fascia is cracked
some door dings in the body

Items to fix for DD status:
hydraulic leak for cooling fan (fix or replace with electric)
replace plastic cooling system parts - flush system
VCGs, coils, plugs
fresh oil
check timing chains and tensioners while doing VCGs (should these all be replaced simply because of age and mileage?!)
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Suppose I'll do sway bar bushings since I was still hanging on to these from my '02 LSE. LSE and sport both had the larger sway bar, correct?
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Also had this guy laying around.
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My plans for improving the look of my LS are many so I'll touch on those as I make them. I have always wanted to make a custom grill and rear plate surround that have the emblem/emblem space deleted to make for a completely debadged LS.

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LSE was an appearance package only. It did not alter any suspension or powertrain components.
 
LSE was an appearance package only. It did not alter any suspension or powertrain components.

The BASE FRONT STABILIZER BAR, LS6, 29.5MM
The BASE STABILIZER BAR, LS8, 28MM
The SPORT FRONT STABILIZER BAR, LS6, 32MM
The SPORT FRONT STABILIZER BAR, LS8, 31MM
The BASE REAR STABILIZER BAR is 13 mm LS 6 and LS8
The SPORT REAR STABILIZER BAR is 18 mm LS6 and LS8

Found this through search. So looks like I'll need a different set of bushings after all. Thanks for the heads up on that joegr! So LSE is a prettier base model and sport is sport.
 
What's the part number on the bushings that you have?
 
LSEs are Sports models with the LSE appearance package.


See, that's what I had thought. Joegr's comment just threw me. The way it was worded made me think I was remembering it wrong.

What's the part number on the bushings that you have?

I'll have to see if I even have a part number. Will I not be able to properly measure them since they are rubber and maybe slightly compressed in the bracket?
 
LSEs are Sports models with the LSE appearance package.

Yeah, I thought that you could only get the LSE package on a sport. In any event, the real question is if the bushings he has are the right ones for the LS he has now. (They might have been wrong for the LS he had before too?)
 
(They might have been wrong for the LS he had before too?)

I'm gonna take a guess that these are Energy Suspension bushings and therefore wrong on any LS.

Falecf4: if they are ES bushings, they are too narrow and let the bar slide side to side. You can try to use some cylindrical clamps or, assuming you have the original sway bar with separate bushings and brackets, you can find Jaguar bushings.

Anyway, maybe you and Izzy can be friends with your truffle butter interiors

I don't think there's any need to replace the tensioners or chains provided you have the updated metal ones. Given the year and mileage, if it didn't come with them, they probably have already been replaced. Hopefully, with metal. But then again, some sellers are still selling plastic tensioners new on eBay for $120, more than twice the price of the metal parts
 
I'm gonna take a guess that these are Energy Suspension bushings and therefore wrong on any LS.

Falecf4: if they are ES bushings, they are too narrow and let the bar slide side to side. You can try to use some cylindrical clamps or, assuming you have the original sway bar with separate bushings and brackets, you can find Jaguar bushings.

Anyway, maybe you and Izzy can be friends with your truffle butter interiors

I don't think there's any need to replace the tensioners or chains provided you have the updated metal ones. Given the year and mileage, if it didn't come with them, they probably have already been replaced. Hopefully, with metal. But then again, some sellers are still selling plastic tensioners new on eBay for $120, more than twice the price of the metal parts


In regards to the bushings, metal tensioners and aluminum cooling parts, where is the best place to get them? Rock Auto has been good to me. I was browsing RA and the Jaguar S-type 4.0L is what matches our engine as fas as the cooling parts go. Can I order the other items from the same Jag?

Haha, yeah the interior is definitely not my favorite but one thing at a time. I don't think I've even seen a thread where someone converted a full interior to a different color.
 
This is where I got my bushings. S type bushings, works for Sports with the Gen 1 style sway bar with removable brackets and bushings. Rein XR819697 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jaguar-suspension-stabilizer-bar-mount-xr819697

However, there is a chance you have the updated molded-together bar from Gen 2 if it was replaced at the dealer.

Tensioners: If you have the time, I'd open the valve covers first to see if you need them. I ended up never using the tensioners I bought since both my original and replacement '02 engines already had the metal tensioners. I got them, along with the chains w/ master link, from Chris' Foreign Car Parts. He has a website and an eBay store. I guess I should think about selling them at this point since I doubt I'll need them

I'm pretty sure the only metal Jag part is the thermostat housing. I haven't bought one, but due to its basic nature, I'd assume it doesn't really matter where you buy it from. eBay, RA, Amazon, etc. I'm going to just price shop that one. The solid coolant pipe in front of the head on the driver's side seems easy to fab up in metal though... (I've never welded though)

I think someone in the LS Enthusiasts Facebook group gutted a junkyard car to change their interior. Maybe they just changed half of the two-tone? Maybe it was just seats. I dunno. I'm sure it'd get pricey for a personal preference.
 
On Rock Auto, make sure you inspect the parts you get upon arrival. I ordered a hub from them, and found their bargain brand in the name brand box I ordered. I'm not the only one to have this happen either.
 
I'm gonna take a guess that these are Energy Suspension bushings and therefore wrong on any LS.

Falecf4: if they are ES bushings, they are too narrow and let the bar slide side to side. You can try to use some cylindrical clamps or, assuming you have the original sway bar with separate bushings and brackets, you can find Jaguar bushings.



Yup, the ES bushings are too narrow and should not be used on any LS. Unless you don't mind some play in your front end sway bar.

See: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...-today&p=2037357662&viewfull=1#post2037357662



EDIT - - -

Damnit, these attachment pic links from quoted messages always need fixing!?!?! Seriously!?!?!
Anyhow, see above link for details.

View attachment 828469214
 
... they like to slide side to side on the bar because they are too narrow. The solution was to replace worn out bushings on a 1st Gen SPORT with Jaguar Rein #XR819697 30mm bushings from FCP Euro, which are an identical fit and one ends up retaining the stock bracket.


The 00-02 bushings aren't in service any longer anyhow, they'll offer to sell you the latest front sway bar with the molded bushings on them and when that stock depletes, only options left would be ES bushings or Rein 30mm for the Sport models.


For the front sway bar bushings I can not recommend the Universal fit Poly bushings from Energy Suspension, they are too narrow and will not seat correctly. Save the old brackets and put a set of Jaguar Rein #XR819697 in, that is if your LS is a 1st GEN Sport which needs the 30mm bushing.




https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jaguar-suspension-stabilizer-bar-mount-xr819697

(note that if ordering from there, you have to order qty 2)
 
I started pricing parts today. Looks like I'll be dropping $500-$1,000 easy. I have more time than money at the moment so I will be taking my rock auto parts list and seeing if I can pick some stuff up cheaper on eBay or elsewhere. I know my window regulators will already be $15-25 cheaper each via eBay.

Since my car has about 185K is there any reason I shouldn't just replace basically every cooling part? I have the metal Jaguar t-stat housing assembly picked out from rock auto and for the rest I'll have to go with the plastic pieces. I have a sport so am I right in assuming I have the oil cooler? Different lower radiator hose with or without. I also would like to know if I should go ahead and replace the water pump, aux pump and DCCV right away as well? When I moved the car yesterday I was getting virtually no heat with the engine at operating temp and the outside temp at 2 degrees F.

I've done plugs, coils and VCG's a few times now so I know what goes into that. I'll also be taking a peek at my timing chains and tensioners while I am in there.

I have yet to determine if I can fix the leak for my cooling fan or if I will just go the electric route. I suppose I will replace my sway bar bushings when I replace all of my cooling parts or if I replace the hydraulic fan.

Advice or suggestions on the cooling stuff is appreciated. I have searched and read a few threads on it and have replace a few degas bottles myself so I am pretty sure I will just replace it all.

I look at as I only spent $350 to buy the car so if I still put $1,500 into it I will have a pretty cheap and ,hopefully, very reliable car. As opposed to buying an LS for $2-3k and still having to put money into it.

PS: Why does the forum put random things in red as links?
 
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Make a list of the cooling parts. I'm going to hit that problem sooner or later. My 02 is at 75k now
 
PS: Why does the forum put random things in red as links?



You might have search externally and ended up on LVC via such links and thus puts certain words in links. I've seen it before also.

if not, regular links are displayed in red on here.
 
When links get quoted, that usually messes them up.
 
For Valentine's day I got myself a few Lincoln parts. I shopped my list at Rock Auto but ended up finding everything cheaper on eBay with free shipping!

Window regulators, front driver's and passenger's side
Rock Auto $50.79 and $46.89 plus shipping
eBay $65.75 shipped (saved $3.23 using best offer)
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Ignition coils (set of 8)
Rock Auto $102.16 ($12.77/ea.) plus shipping
eBay $42.50 shipped
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Spark plugs NKG Iridium (set of 8)
Rock Auto $47.44 plus shipping
eBay $48.24 shipped
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Valve cover gasket set
Rock Auto $26.79 plus shipping
eBay $26.41 shipped
VCGs.jpg

Everything is pretty standard but I did go extremely cheap on the coils. They are advertised as having copper coils instead of aluminum and I have no clue if that is any deviation from OEM coils but I figure the coils I bought aren't any worse than the cheap coils elsewhere. So, unless I want to spend the money for Motorcraft or some other supposedly better coil I will stick with these.

Rock Auto $309.07 shipped
eBay $182.90 shipped
$126.17 Savings!

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So, you bought better plugs than you need (Platinum would likely outlast the coils), but got cheap coils. Perhaps it will work out well, but is it worth the risk to your catalytic converters and your PCM?
 
So, you bought better plugs than you need (Platinum would likely outlast the coils), but got cheap coils. Perhaps it will work out well, but is it worth the risk to your catalytic converters and your PCM?

Only $8 for the next step up in spark plugs, coils would be 8x what I paid. Unless I go straight up to Motorcraft coils I have not read one solid review on any other type. Accels maybe but I have heard people having failure issues with those too. Right now I need to replace them and maybe when summer comes around and my income goes back up to triple what it is now I will make that investment. I get what you are saying about potential damage to other systems and I will have to monitor for any signs of coil failure. I don't know what it actually takes to kill the cats but as far as I know they are half way there since I picked up this car with the coils issue.
 
I don't know what it actually takes to kill the cats but as far as I know they are half way there since I picked up this car with the coils issue.

That's kinda what Joe's trying to warn you about. By the time the coils show problems the damage is already done. Do a search here on "marginal coils." Marginal coils will even cause the transmission to have some major issues, because they pump an EMF backfeed into the computer and burn out the trans control circuits and when this happens you'll swear the trans is going out on the car. It's a 170 dollar, one week fix. Cheap plugs are OK, cheap coils are not.
 
That's kinda what Joe's trying to warn you about. By the time the coils show problems the damage is already done. Do a search here on "marginal coils." Marginal coils will even cause the transmission to have some major issues, because they pump an EMF backfeed into the computer and burn out the trans control circuits and when this happens you'll swear the trans is going out on the car. It's a 170 dollar, one week fix. Cheap plugs are OK, cheap coils are not.


Now this is new news to me. Curious though, couldn't a simple diode prevent the backfeed you talk about?
 

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