Eibach springs

your prob right pete. they said it would only void suspension related parts but i have first hand knowledge of how much that costs. $858 for front steering knuckles but i dont knowhow far they will go with " suspension related parts"..
 
On this car nothing starts to break until you hit 50,002 miles. Right after the factory warranty expires. I wouldnt let those spring worry you too much. I had all 3 of my LS's lowered with zero issues until this 04 which just needed sway bar bushings, but those were easy to swap and only cost me $20.
 
i have extended warranty up to 100,000 miles and i only have 28k on car. so i guess i should go through ford and save 170
 
The Pilot's are directional. Like I said, I wore out the centers and the edges were fine. Well, they did have a little feathering from my cornering speeds.....

center tread wear is from over inflating
 
So i call ford and make the apt for tomorrow...ahhhhhhhhh. sweeeeeet. The service manager and i are buddy buddy so he didnt write it up as aftermarket. so if any thing goes wrong then it should still be covered as long as its hush hush. My local spring shop called for 7 hours of labor at 65 an hour plus 80$ alignment. WOW. stealership states 3.3 hours in labor. Whos lying lol.
 
center tread wear is from over inflating

Ok, let's ask ls4me what his pressures were when the centers wore down. Contrary to what you would believe, it can actually be caused by underinflation in this type of tire. If you've ever seen top fuel dragsters burn out or take off, their rear tires get narrower and stand tall, increasing the circumference in the middle of the tires, due to flexing and centrifugal force. The more air pressure that we keep in our tires, as in ultra high performance radials, the more pressure that the sidewalls have to pull the contact patch from the outsides and making it more flat. If we run too little air in the tires, they have a tendency to ride on the middle of the tire tread patch, the faster we get them spinning. I typically ride around at 75-80 and have seen this happen on both of my cars. If they run at factory recommended pressures, like 32 or around that, the wear is noticeable and rapid, even with a 400 treadwear rated tire. Running up around 38 seems to make them last longer. The rear tires wear out their centers due to the rear wheel drive continually pushing the car forward off those treads. If the center is bowed out with a centrifugally enlarged center track, the all of that long term driving force for the car is concentrated on that middle patch of tire. The front tires do not suffer from this as much, since there is no propulsion to those tires.

There used to be an article written by BF Goodrich engineers at the link inside this post I will point to, but it's a little old and gone now. The poster summarized it and it is contained in this link.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=67456&postcount=7
 
The physics are correct on underinflating causing center wear. I am suprised that the centripetal force is enough at the speeds our tires rotate to counteract the cupping caused by underinflation. I suppose if you drive mostly at highway speed it makes sense. But at stop and go speed low pressure would wear down the outside first.
 
Ok, let's ask ls4me what his pressures were when the centers wore down. Contrary to what you would believe, it can actually be caused by underinflation in this type of tire. If you've ever seen top fuel dragsters burn out or take off, their rear tires get narrower and stand tall, increasing the circumference in the middle of the tires, due to flexing and centrifugal force. The more air pressure that we keep in our tires, as in ultra high performance radials, the more pressure that the sidewalls have to pull the contact patch from the outsides and making it more flat. If we run too little air in the tires, they have a tendency to ride on the middle of the tire tread patch, the faster we get them spinning. I typically ride around at 75-80 and have seen this happen on both of my cars. If they run at factory recommended pressures, like 32 or around that, the wear is noticeable and rapid, even with a 400 treadwear rated tire. Running up around 38 seems to make them last longer. The rear tires wear out their centers due to the rear wheel drive continually pushing the car forward off those treads. If the center is bowed out with a centrifugally enlarged center track, the all of that long term driving force for the car is concentrated on that middle patch of tire. The front tires do not suffer from this as much, since there is no propulsion to those tires.

There used to be an article written by BF Goodrich engineers at the link inside this post I will point to, but it's a little old and gone now. The poster summarized it and it is contained in this link.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=67456&postcount=7



your are comparing apples to oranges

a top fuel drag car uses bias ply tires not a radial... two different tires all together

the center wearing fast on the rear tire of a rear wheel drive car is because it is RWD...just like the fronts on a FWD
 
On the 2nd Gen LS, is it possible to adjust the camber, when lowered with Eibachs?
 
On the 2nd Gen LS, is it possible to adjust the camber, when lowered with Eibachs?

Leo, the front is adjustable on all LSes. You might need the longer camber bolts to make the adjustment.
 
Ford is telling me there is no camber adjustment on my car and wants to charge me 426 to install them .. they say they wheels are off 1.5 degrees and 1.2 degrees on the other side on the fronts .??? whats the deal with that ??? havent heard nothing on threads about that
 
Ask for the print out if you have doubts. The machine does not have a program called lies but for some reason these techs do.


Not that I think they are BSing. It is common. Unfortunately it is also common for them to scam you but if you ever think it should have the alignment done just do it.
 
have the print out in front of me. but what im saying is why does my car not already have the cam adjustment?? they are 60 a piece
 
here i print out

alignment 006.jpg


alignment 007.jpg


alignment 008.jpg


alignment 009.jpg
 
Yes. From the print out they need it.
Some say you shouldn't need a kit to do the alignment but they also suggest taking it to a very good tech for that.
 
Do you know for sure how much they cost???...
Both sides are visually off so i guess i gotta do it but they want 229.00 for labor... they didnt tell me over the phone that they were replacing the left rear control arm.. they told me this once i got there whch made me wonder if the cam deal is to offset their loss. So total is around 400 with new alignment... so i guess i must pay to play as one said before.
 

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