easiest way to pull the engine

94silvermark

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Hey guys I'm heading out later this week to buy a used engine for my mark. I'm looking to find out which method of engine removal would be the easiest. I don't have a lift just an engine hoist. I have always pulled engines up to remove them in the past but i don't know how practical that is with this car. Faster would be better but i will sacrifice that for ease of execution. I'm getting a pretty good deal on this motor, 350 bucks for a 101k mile engine out of a 95. I'm gonna go through and J mod the trans while it's out and easy.
 
General consensus would be to take it out from the bottom. of course you would need more tools than just a hoist. I your case, a floor jack or two will help.

Bill and Jeremy (LaserSVT, sapperfire) used a floor jack to cradle the engine from the bottom as they hoisted the front end of the car over the engine a few years back. Someone here may have pictures of the engine removal process. Two guys who were thinking out of the box.:D
 
If you have a way to lift the chassis up and over it's much easier for the engine to 'fall out' the bottom than it is to hoist it out the top.

Look for the guy riding the removed Mark VIII motor. He can show you the way if you follow him!
 
Yeah, the guy who sold me the parts car had pulled the engine first. He said it was an absolute PITA to pull it out of the top. He does rebuilds and projects regularly and he said he should have taken it from underneath as suggested here.
 
It's wild seeing a mark pulled up by the nose to slide the motor out underneath it. It looks like my best option though. Maybe an atv jack from harbor freight will do the trick.
 
Good times.. It's WAY easier to do it with a Lift..:)

One tip left out of that thread, is, when you disconnect the steering shaft from the Rack, go ahead and remove the rag joint and push the steering shaft into itself (it collapses) makes clearance of it around the exhaust wide open.
Just make sure you don't go turning the steering wheel
 
Will it make things significantly harder if i try to unbolt the ac compressor then push it aside instead of removing the lines?
 
Yeah. Leaving the system under pressure is do-able, but risky. If you even tap it too hard it'll blow up

Much easier to vac the system down. Divorce the lines at the compressor, you may want to remove the filter canister line from the car. Then drop the block. Also there's a ground strap to the frame right by the AC filter, remove its bolt from the frame
 
Yeah. Leaving the system under pressure is do-able, but risky. If you even tap it too hard it'll blow up

Much easier to vac the system down. Divorce the lines at the compressor, you may want to remove the filter canister line from the car. Then drop the block. Also there's a ground strap to the frame right by the AC filter, remove its bolt from the frame

+1
Make sure you have something strong enough to support the engine trans and k member so you can slide it out.

Do some work on your engine before install.
Cam cover gaskets and oil seals by the spark plugs, oil pan gasket, oil filter gasket.
Also power steering hose.
Now is the time.

wheelie_zps7c44cc54.jpg


messon2wheels_zps62dec541.jpg
 
Yeah you better believe the valve cover seals i just put on my blown engine, before i knew it was blown, will be swapped over. I was planning on doing the oil pan gasket and filter adapter gasket as well.
 
In my opinion, it's just as easy to pull out the top. I pulled several both ways, and I guess it depends on whether you need engine and trans or just engine. If your just pulling the engine, I think out the top is faster. Unbolt ac compressor and lay to one side, and unbolt driver's side exhaust manifold and leave in car. Once you remove the wiper cowl, you can easily reach top trans bolts.
 
hmm sounds like a pain to remove the manifold with the engine still in car and an even bigger pain to line up the new gasket and bolts when reassembling.
 
In my opinion, it's just as easy to pull out the top. I pulled several both ways, and I guess it depends on whether you need engine and trans or just engine. If your just pulling the engine, I think out the top is faster. Unbolt ac compressor and lay to one side, and unbolt driver's side exhaust manifold and leave in car. Once you remove the wiper cowl, you can easily reach top trans bolts.


I've even pulled to motor and trans with the manifolds attached. If I know the K-Member bolts will come out then dropping it out the bottom is preferred.

Before anything is lifted/dropped remember to unbolt the torque converter bolts, they are just easier to get to when still in the car.
 
I dunno, never thought of pulling just the engine, I guess if its a rust pile there might be an advantage.
I hope not to do to many..... I didn't find it a easy task with out a lift.

Don't think it would be fun to line up engine with the trans/convertor and engine mounts in that tight space, but never tried it either.

Convertor bolts come off easy if you pull the rubber plug on the side of the engine and go through there.
Didn't have a issue with the engine out of the car.
 
The more i am thinking about this the more i don't want to pull it out the bottom. It seems like lining the sub frame up again would be torture considering i probably wont have help. Do i need to take the radiator support and hood off to pull it up?
 
Radiator support is welded in so yes leave it be. You can even leave the radiator in the car if you want. I would pull the cooling fan for sure. Dismount hood struts and tilt the hood up and it will give you enough clearance, but I removed the hood just for more light and access. If you have somebody to help you, I would probably remove it. One of the worst bolts to get out in my opinion is trans dipstick tube bolt. As Eric said I have pulled them out the top with driver's side manifold still on, but it tends to cause trouble, and going back in is much easier with it off.
 
I don't see any issue bolting up the K member by yourself.
It is swinging free being lifted by the engine hoist.

The whole job is kinda PITA...lol
 
I'm looking for lift points to attach a chain to and lower the whole thing. I see that some on the back of the engine were used by lasersvt. I dont see how i can reach them with the engine still in the car. If i try and pull the intake i will have to wrestle the egr valve off with zero room. The junkyard i bought the motor from just tied a strap to the passenger side manifold and oil filter adapter to lift it.
 
I removed mine from donor that was NOT to be saved by sawzalling the Radiator support and running three ratchet style straps around the engine. I also unbolted the master cylinder to clear vertical lift just enough to clear the motor mounts. With the trans cross member out and exhausts free it came out the front no sweat.
 

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