Drivers door won't open - 2002 Lincoln LS

[LDM]

Update!

I just went out and used the key on the outside drivers door lock again, and while using the key to lock the car, and then unlock, back and forth, and while repeatedly pulling up on the handle and then releasing, many times, sometimes with the handle up and then turning the key to lock and unlock, sometimes with the handle down and lock/unlock... something then happened and the door came open.

I had to go inside and force the inside door panel back on and tuck it inside the door pillar to get the door fully opened. I then lubricated the latch many times and manually with a screwdriver latched and unlatched it, and using the inside handle at times, I latched and unlatched it. Then lubricated it again (all I had handy to use was WD40). I did this many times. Then I took the chance and closed the door. I was able to lock/unlock and open and close the door many times. I will leave it be for now, as the car is outside in the dark. Now to determine the next step. I would assume get the door open again and remove and replace the latch assembly, and remove/replace the window regulator while I am in there. I have more confidence that I can remove the latch assembly myself now that I can get the door open. I will try to open the door again tomorrow, and if the door works, then order a new latch assembly and replace it myself. I assume that is the root cause of the problem - the latch assembly needs replaced.

 

[AmsterDutch]

Update!

I just went out and used the key on the outside drivers door lock, and while using the key to lock the car, and then unlock, back and forth, and while repeatedly pulling up on the handle and then releasing, many times, sometimes with the handle up and then turning the key to lock and unlock, sometimes with the handle down and lock/unlock... something then happened and the door came open. I had to go inside and force the inside door panel back on and tuck it inside the door pillar to get the door fully opened. I then lubricated the latch many times and manually with a screwdriver latched and unlatched it, and using the inside handle at times, I latched and unlatched it. Then lubricated it again (all I had handy to use was WD40). I did this many times. Then I took the chance and closed the door. I was able to lock/unlock and open and close the door many times. I will leave it be for now, as the car is outside in the dark. Now to determine the next step. I would assume get the door open again and remove and replace the latch assembly, and remove/replace the window regulator while I am in there. I have more confidence that I can remove the latch assembly myself now that I can get the door open. I will try to open the door again tomorrow, and if the door works, then order a new latch assembly and replace it myself. I assume that is the root cause of the problem - the latch assembly needs replaced.

Well that beats paying a $1000 dollars for a $1000 dollar car

 

[LDM]

Exactly. I wonder if the latch just needed lubed. Maybe I can just put in the window regulator that I already have here, and call it done. If I did that, what would be the best lube to get for the latch? I personally don't have a problem with WD40, but others do...

 

[AmsterDutch]

Update!

I just went out and used the key on the outside drivers door lock, and while using the key to lock the car, and then unlock, back and forth, and while repeatedly pulling up on the handle and then releasing, many times, sometimes with the handle up and then turning the key to lock and unlock, sometimes with the handle down and lock/unlock... something then happened and the door came open. I had to go inside and force the inside door panel back on and tuck it inside the door pillar to get the door fully opened. I then lubricated the latch many times and manually with a screwdriver latched and unlatched it, and using the inside handle at times, I latched and unlatched it. Then lubricated it again (all I had handy to use was WD40). I did this many times. Then I took the chance and closed the door. I was able to lock/unlock and open and close the door many times. I will leave it be for now, as the car is outside in the dark. Now to determine the next step. I would assume get the door open again and remove and replace the latch assembly, and remove/replace the window regulator while I am in there. I have more confidence that I can remove the latch assembly myself now that I can get the door open. I will try to open the door again tomorrow, and if the door works, then order a new latch assembly and replace it myself. I assume that is the root cause of the problem - the latch assembly needs replaced.

That’s called having a Clark Griswald moment ...but instead of Christmas Lights it was your car door hehehe

 

[AmsterDutch]

Exactly. I wonder if the latch just needed lubed. Maybe I can just put in the window regulator that I already have here, and call it done. If I did that, what would be the best lube? I personally don't have a problem with WD40, but others do...

WD40 as been around forever it’s a good solid lubricant but I always thought PB Blaster was more HEAVY DUTY most factories use PB Blaster when it comes to machines

 

[LDM]

I thought maybe there was some specific good grease to get. I would do all door latches, the trunk latch and maybe find the hood latch and grease/lube them all. I see WD40 and PB Blaster is a penetrator and lubricant.

 

[LDM]

I just ordered a new latch assembly from TascaParts:
2002 Lincoln LS Drivers Door Latch Assembly 2W4Z-54203A29-AB
$169.68 Latch Assembly - Ford (2W4Z-54203A29-AB) | TascaParts.com

This door gets the most use. I am not wanting to go through this again trying to get the door open. I will put in a new latch assembly and new window regulator. Looks like I am going to need some new inside door panel clips. Now to find the correct size torx bit for the latch screws.

Thank you again for the help.

 

[LDM]

Anyone know what size Torx bit is needed for the 2002 Lincoln LS Door Latch screws?

I have T6, T8, T10, T15, T20. Some bit sets don't have T27 or T35, and some sets don't go above T30, so I want to make sure I get a set with the correct size.

I am considering buying one of these torx bit sets:

$9.97 MILWAUKEE 48-32-4618 Impact Rated Torx Security Bit Set, no T35 (10-Piece)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R5L830/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

$14.99 DEWALT DWAX200 Security Bit Set w/Torx (31-Piece)
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWAX2...r=1-1-fkmr2&keywords=dewalt+security+torx+set

$8.99 Craftsman 1/4 and 3/8 Torx Bit Socket Set, no T35 (9-Piece)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JCBJZN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(Some of these are security bits, I can use them for other purposes besides auto related).

 

[AmsterDutch]

Anyone know what size Torx bit is needed for the 2002 Lincoln LS Door Latch screws? (I only have T8, T10, T15, T20). Some bit sets don't have T27 or T35, and some sets don't go above T30, so I want to make sure I get a set with the correct size. Also, do I need an impact driver to get these loose? (If so, then I need impact rated torx bits).

I am looking at one of these sets (no T35):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R5L830/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UZDWK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A37KLPQG0QTZGU&psc=1

I think its a 27 just like the armrest screws

 

[LDM]

Thanks!

I just found an old junk toolset with a broken ratchet, it has T25, T27, T30 and T40.

The Door Latch Torx Screws are T27.

 

[LDM]

It took 3 weeks to get the door lock onsite. I went to install it and a new power window regulator, and found the inside door handle broken where the cable connects. I ordered a real motorcraft handle (instead of an aftermarket that I had on it), and it took another 3 weeks to get onsite. I went to install everything Saturday and found a broken bolt on the new window regulator (that I had ordered early last year, which is not returnable). I pulled the regulator out, drilled out the bolt, reamed the hole out, put in a new bolt and nut. I put in the new window regulator, new door lock actuator, new interior door handle. Found the battery dead. It was 3 years 3 months old. I went to order a new MTP-66 Interstate Battery... they no longer make it. They make a MT-66 Interstate Battery for it, but no one had it in town. I went and bought a Motorcraft BXT-66-750 Battery and installed that instead. Everything works now on the drivers door. (I found the spare tire blown out though when putting in a new battery).

At least this drivers door is now in working order.

 

[AmsterDutch]

It took 3 weeks to get the door lock onsite. I went to install it and a new power window regulator, and found the inside door handle broken where the cable connects. I ordered a real motorcraft handle (instead of an aftermarket that I had on it), and it took another 3 weeks to get onsite. I went to install everything Saturday and found a broken bolt on the new window regulator (that I had ordered early last year, which is not returnable). I pulled the regulator out, drilled out the bolt, reamed the hole out, put in a new bolt and nut. I put in the new window regulator, new door lock actuator, new interior door handle. Found the battery dead. It was 3 years 3 months old. I went to order a new MTP-66 Interstate Battery... they no longer make it. They make a MT-66 Interstate Battery for it, but no one had it in town. I went and bought a Motorcraft BXT-66-750 Battery and installed that instead. Everything works now on the drivers door. (I found the spare tire blown out though when putting in a new battery).

At least this drivers door is now in working order.

That’s really good to hear it’s all sorted out finally ...I figures that Cable on the door was going to break or be broken...common failure and poor design

 

[LDM]

Yea, I replaced it once already with an aftermarket dorman part... but this time I got the real motorcraft part, as it works better, you can pull the interior handle and it unlocks the door and it opens (the dorman would not open the door if locked, you had to unlock the door, then pull the handle).

Next time I won't be ordering parts with over $15 shipping costs each time, from the East coast to Arizona and wait 3 weeks each time for delivery (tasca)... I will order from the West coast (fordpartsgiant).

That interior door handle wasn't broke when I started this project, as I checked that part. I probably broke it myself trying to force things and yanking on things trying to get the inner door panel off while the door was closed. My bad this time.