Been doing every 10K-15K miles (or these days yearly in the case of my wife and daughter) for the last 165K miles on the '00, 55K on my wife's LS and 75K miles on mine. It's actually the oil companies that don't mind you changing your oil so often. BTW, Even at 179K miles on the '00 I still drain the same amount of oil I install.
Dreaded Oil Thread...
- Thread starter Dykzeulb
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Been doing every 10K-15K miles (or these days yearly in the case of my wife and daughter) for the last 165K miles on the '00, 55K on my wife's LS and 75K miles on mine. It's actually the oil companies that don't mind you changing your oil so often. BTW, Even at 179K miles on the '00 I still drain the same amount of oil I install.
Ranchero50
Well-Known LVC Member
Sorry, per the reps from Mobil oil, the who 3000 mile thing was a marketing ploy from Jiffy Lube. When the oil folks are telling you that you are wasting oil and money, you need to stop.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yeah, I've been slow to adapt, but there is lots of evidence that today's oils and today's engines are perfectly fine with those intervals.
jinx8402
Active LVC Member
Most new cars say right in the manual to change every 10,000 or 12 months, whatever comes first. If the car manufacturer is giving that recommendation, then you would believe it's safe to do so with today's advanced oil. The manufacturers have a huge incentive to give the correct information, because if they tell people they can go 10,000 miles between oil changes, they are on the line for warranty work when the engines start to crap out.
That's my thought at least
That's my thought at least
jmtiseo
The Peanut Gallery
Most new cars say right in the manual to change every 10,000 or 12 months, whatever comes first. If the car manufacturer is giving that recommendation, then you would believe it's safe to do so with today's advanced oil. The manufacturers have a huge incentive to give the correct information, because if they tell people they can go 10,000 miles between oil changes, they are on the line for warranty work when the engines start to crap out.
That's my thought at least
Agreed, except from the outside looking in, I would pin the extended oil change intervals more on motor oil delivery advancements and a better understanding of oil capabilities than the "oil technology" itself. They've had to make changes over the past four decades(1) but I'm going to guess that most of the development was done on oil delivery side, not the oil itself.
I never knew the stuff was that "mature".
(1)http://www.exxonmobil.com/Corporate/history/about_who_history_alt.aspx
jjcool00
Dedicated LVC Member
The LS I change every 7500-10000 miles with synthetic and filter... Now I just bought another car in November and with it I received one year free maintenance and the dealer calls me every 3 months to ensure I change my oil every 3k miles. I'm assuming they are not using synthetic though... weird - the manual states every 5000.
They must be young'ns. The 3K mile oil change was around LONG before Jiffy Lube was a spark in someone's eye! When Mobil1 was first introduced they touted a 25K mile or one year interval. Back then (the 70's) the 3K or 3 month interval was the standard. Then again, so was using a quart every thousand.
The benefit to synthetic is that the oil doesn't suffer thermal breakdown. I read on the Amsoil site a diesel trucker has had the same oil for over 250K miles. He has it analyzed every 10K.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Diesel rigs hold a lot more oil than a car, and they tend to have very good oil filters. Not that I'm an expert on them by any means. I didn't realize until the other day, that one millions miles on one is considered low mileage.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Dealers make profit on oil changes, so it is not strange that they would encourage you to do them more often than required. (Yes, they're free now, but by next year you'll be used to going in every 3K. There's also the chance to up-sell other services while you are there.)
RigsLS
Dedicated LVC Member
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5 years old and companies start getting rid of them, they can roll over a second time and still keep on running, trouble is at that point they are close to 10 years old and a money pit.
Owner Operators can't get contracts with trucks older then 5yrs.
I was in a 2007 Freightliner Classic XL long nose when the dail rolled over. Caught the 9's turn to 0's on vid. (they were Kms though)
Owner Operators can't get contracts with trucks older then 5yrs.
I was in a 2007 Freightliner Classic XL long nose when the dail rolled over. Caught the 9's turn to 0's on vid. (they were Kms though)
Picture?????
Mustangdanimal
LVC Member
If you haven't been to this site and read it, re-read it, and learned from it, you're doing yourself a mis-service. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
Everything you want to know about what oil is best, what filter etc.
As a previous poster said, NEVER, EVER, EVER buy a Fram oil filter. The K&N, and Mobil 1 are the same, and Purolator Gold are about the same as well. Motorcraft is a fine filter and the one I use due to cost/quality. Zero weight oils are best, and even 0w50 has benefits over 0W20, but I've not got that brave yet. I do use 0w20 and MC filter.
Dan
Everything you want to know about what oil is best, what filter etc.
As a previous poster said, NEVER, EVER, EVER buy a Fram oil filter. The K&N, and Mobil 1 are the same, and Purolator Gold are about the same as well. Motorcraft is a fine filter and the one I use due to cost/quality. Zero weight oils are best, and even 0w50 has benefits over 0W20, but I've not got that brave yet. I do use 0w20 and MC filter.
Dan
BigWayner95
Well-Known LVC Member
What are / is good brand of oil filter with anti-drain back valves for the ls's?
BigWayner95
Well-Known LVC Member
Is there a certain part number for the adb valve filters? I have a motorcraft on now, but I don't think its a non drain back one?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I believe that the anti-drain back is built into the engine or the adapter. AFAIK, the filter only has a bypass valve. I use the FL-2021 with no problems.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
The little rubber ring you see in the open end of an oil filter is the anti-drainback valve. If you look in and don't see rubber in the outer ring of holes, the filter doesn't have an anti-drainback. The bypass valve is a spring loaded valve in the opposite end. When oil pressure is high enough, it pushes the spring to let oil bypass the filter media. This is not so easily seen, you have to cut the filter open. It works a lot like a thermostat except it is pressure-activated and not temperature-activated.
Some cars do have a bypass valve built into the adapter, but usually it is built into the filter itself as the filter manufacturer does not want to be responsible for oil pressure bursting their filter and causing your engine to lose oil pressure and spin a bearing. A thin-metaled filter will have a bypass valve weak enough that you may as well not have a filter. For some reason, I always think of Fram when I say this, I don't know why.
On my 2003 LS V8 I use a Wix 57302. I've been using Wix ever since AC Delco offshored their filters to China. Wix is owned by Dana Corp, and still makes their filters in the USA. If Wix ever stops making their filters in the USA, I will find a new brand.
Some cars do have a bypass valve built into the adapter, but usually it is built into the filter itself as the filter manufacturer does not want to be responsible for oil pressure bursting their filter and causing your engine to lose oil pressure and spin a bearing. A thin-metaled filter will have a bypass valve weak enough that you may as well not have a filter. For some reason, I always think of Fram when I say this, I don't know why.
On my 2003 LS V8 I use a Wix 57302. I've been using Wix ever since AC Delco offshored their filters to China. Wix is owned by Dana Corp, and still makes their filters in the USA. If Wix ever stops making their filters in the USA, I will find a new brand.
BigWayner95
Well-Known LVC Member
Here the thing, Im trying to figure out why I have a rattle on start up, and I like to go the cheapest routes first before replacing the timing chains and tensioners. So If I can find a filter with the anti drain back valve and that stops the rattle on start up. I WILL BE A HAPPY MAN.
Very strange...... Amazon says that's the wrong filter. Yes, I know you've been using it and Wix's site shows it's the right one. Amazon needs to get with the program!
JoshMcMadMac
Dedicated LVC Member
Those are a Mobil1 filter with a nut on the end of it. Good stuff.