Drag radials

Savagecat27 said:
I just ordered the MT street et's 26/10.50/16's which I hope is the equivalent to 255/50/16's cause these are going on my octastars, I also ordered the rear koni shocks which are backordered so I won't get them for a few weeks I ordered them from summit
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How much for the Koni's ??
 
KStromberg said:
You'll appreciate this. :p



Stock Converter:

StockConverter.jpg


High Stall Converter:

HighStall.jpg
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Good explanation :)
 
Pulled from the Jegs site:

"The primary thing we want to remember about torque converter stall speed is that a particular torque converter does not have a "preset from the factory" stall speed but rather its unique design will produce a certain range of stall speeds depending on the amount of load the torque converter is exposed to. This load comes from both the torque produced by the engine and the resistance of the vehicle to move from rest. The higher this combined load the higher stall we will observe from a particular torque converter, and conversely, the lower the load, the lower the stall speed. Naturally, if the engine is not at wide open throttle we will not expect to observe as high a stall speed as we would under a wide open throttle.

Another point concerning engine torque is that we are only concerned with what we'll call the "relevant range" of the engine torque curve when discussing initial stall speed. This means if our particular torque converter chosen has a design that should produce a stall speed in a range of say 2000 to 2600 rpm given the application then we would refer to this as the relevant range of our interest in the engine's torque curve for this particular torque converter. In other words, only the torque characteristics of the engine torque in this rpm range will affect the amount of stall speed we actually observe. If we are using a high horsepower/high rpm engine that does not make much torque before 3000 rpm, it does not matter that the engine makes excellent torque over 3000 rpm if we are trying to use the torque converter in this example because its relevant range is 2000-2600 rpm and we would expect to see poor stall (2000 rpm or less) due to the poor torque produced by the engine in this range."
 
Got my MT street et's today was wondering how much pressure to run in them on the street and on the track
 
Was also wondering if anyone's run the front tokico illumina shocks in their mark I called and the guy said they only make them for the electric adjustable tbirds was wondering if anyone thought it was possible to make a controller to make them work in our cars
 
Also wondering what the best way to get the white wall off the tires would be or if I should just paint them
 
1)I run 25 lbs on the street and 17/18 lbs at the strip. 2) I forget who but someone on here used the S/C adjusables and added a switching system. I'm almost certain you could adjust them manualy. 3) I cant remember if it was a tire black or a semi gloss paint. Something I just had but it worked great to this day.
 
Just ran a 14.6 had a ton of wheel hop and let off the gas cause I lost traction but I didn't spin the tires first so I'm gonna try that for my next run
 
I don't have any problems with wheel hop ?? Mine has poly differential bushings and I added rubber lifters to the rear springs. Just big enough to stiffen it but with out lifting it and Al that worked for Barry aligned the rear end ??? After trying many different ways I launch it as hard as I can. I hit the throttle as hard as I can and still hold it on the starting line with the brakes. In Cobras (To include mine) with the independent they do that (wheel hop) and I was told the harder you launch it the less likely it does it. I can't swear to that because we redid the rear suspension on the Cobra before I ever ran it.
 
Don Pfau said:
After trying many different ways I launch it as hard as I can. I hit the throttle as hard as I can and still hold it on the starting line with the brakes.
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So are you basically preloading the converter and raising the rpms up to the maximum point where the brakes still hold during the countdown on the tree?
 
Yes, I power brake it as hard as I can. The harder you do it the faster it runs. I've over done it and rolled of the line and red lighted.
 
Don Pfau said:
Yes, I power brake it as hard as I can. The harder you do it the faster it runs. I've over done it and rolled of the line and red lighted.
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Do you have a tranny temp gauge to see if that is showing a significant spike in temps? I may have to try that this year. I guess I never really had the guts to do it. I've launched a little bit off idle, and sometimes 1200-1500 rpms, but nothing more and then I have tried flashing the converter which seemed to be a little bit more than mediocre. My best 60' was 1.94 when flashing the stall, but I'm going to need 1.8s this year if I am going to get the ETs that I want.
 
Yeah my best 60' was 2 seconds I definitely could have seen twelves I was still getting a feel for the only time I raced it was when it was stock the second time I lowered the rear tires to 20psi and did a lame burnout i think if I lowered them a couple more psi and warmed the tires up alittle more I would have been alset I was also only launching it from idle I don't know if this would create wheel hop but I noticed when I was changing my rear tires today that my rear subframe mounts or bushings whatever u call them were junk I could stick my finger through them
 
Savagecat27 said:
Yeah my best 60' was 2 seconds I definitely could have seen twelves I was still getting a feel for the only time I raced it was when it was stock the second time I lowered the rear tires to 20psi and did a lame burnout i think if I lowered them a couple more psi and warmed the tires up alittle more I would have been alset I was also only launching it from idle I don't know if this would create wheel hop but I noticed when I was changing my rear tires today that my rear subframe mounts or bushings whatever u call them were junk I could stick my finger through them
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Just some thoughts for you:

1) 14-18 psi is what I have read as far as an ideal range for drag racing with the Mickeys. I ran mine at 17 psi. I think you need to lower the air pressure in your Mickeys more. 20 psi is likely too much.

2) Your 60' times are hurting you. Launch the car at a higher rpm. With the stall converter, you're going to see more benefits this way. Maybe try powerbraking it at the tree like Don Pfau. I will probably try this out myself. You can try flashing the converter also, but that takes a little more practice to perfect the method and timing. It is easy to red light that way. Flashing is a quick WOT mash for a split second while simultaneously letting off the brake. The goal is to engage this action very quickly without letting the converter fully preload and be leaving at WOT on the last part of the 3rd yellow. It is very similar to powershifting a clutch, only difference being that the throttle is already fully applied when you let off the "clutch" < really means the brake in your car ;)

3)Those chitty rear mounts are not helping you at all. Consider upgrading to poly differential mounts also, as those too can soften up and degrade.

Practice makes perfect. You'll get there. :)
 
Aren't those a pain to change I forget who it was I think it was dlf had a thread on how to change them I think he had to cut a into the wheelwell to get to the nut
 
KStromberg said:
Do you have a tranny temp gauge to see if that is showing a significant spike in temps? I may have to try that this year. I guess I never really had the guts to do it. I've launched a little bit off idle, and sometimes 1200-1500 rpms, but nothing more and then I have tried flashing the converter which seemed to be a little bit more than mediocre. My best 60' was 1.94 when flashing the stall, but I'm going to need 1.8s this year if I am going to get the ETs that I want.
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No Gauge just a large cooler and mercon V. My best 60' is 1.75
 
I still don't have my methanol working yet either so I think when I get that working with a good tune I'll be alset
 
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