Door Striker Plate

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my1stbabylink

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i hope someone can give a little advice on this one, i have a 2001 LS V6 that i have repaired from a "totaled" status... it had some passenger side damage, i replaced the door, and everything is good, it closes and locks, but this is where my issue is...

on the door latch, with the striker in place, it would click 2 times, the first click is the door lock mechanism locking, the second click in the latch would be the sensor part that tells the message center the door is closed, and not ajar.

i got the door to at least lock and the latch to click that first time, but my problem is the striker plate needs to be moved out maybe a 1/4 inch to fully be all the way in the latch to click that second time to get the computer to read the door is closed.

what would be the best way to move the striker plate out so that its fully in the latch?
with the striker plate in or removed, the door is perfectly lined up with the frame/fender.

i would like to hear some ideas for the best way to move the striker plate out a 1/4 inch....
the plate is screwed in by 2 bolts, i can move it some, but not enough to catch that second click.

since i cant push the door in anymore, i realized i must pull the stiker plate outwards.
its cheap metal behind it,

im just wondering if i should drill 2 new holes?
THANKS IN ADVANCE
 
so your saying the lock is in the "safety latch" position and not the "full latched" position, it would be easier to move the striker plate, rather then any other parts if you say the door is aligned properly, you might need alittle welding if you change the 2 bolt holes for the plate..
 
i have like only a inch of space between the original holes and the end of the metal frame, if i moved the plate out a 1/4 inch should i drill new holes for the striker plate, or can i modify the striker plate where i could slide the plate further out, and bolt it back tight like that?

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or should i do this the other way and make new holes on the frame


















im doing this because the door ajar message stays on, and the dome light would kill the battery, im trying to solve this problem thanks

mod.JPG
 
I would try modifying the stricker plate first. You could probably elongate (sp) the wholes on the plate to give you some wiggle room.
 
ok ive tried messing around with the striker plate but all it does is push the door out too far, and the message board still says door ajar.

when the door is shut when i press the alarm the door beeps twice as if a door is open, so even when the key is out, the message center still reads the doors open,

i am just going to try to figure a way to cut or connect some wires so the message center thinks the door is closed,
i can hear the little spring click on the latch when the message center would read the door is fully closed, and when i undo it to that point, the message center beeps and says doors open,

the reason i need this done is because on the dash, im not able to get the "( ?? ) miles to empty", and i cant reset the message center either.

my question is now, does anyone know the electrical wires on the door latch connector? these is 4 wires, 3 on the bottom and 1 about 3 pins over at the top. it plugs directly into the door latch.
Thanks

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my1stbabylink said:
...
im doing this because the door ajar message stays on, and the dome light would kill the battery, im trying to solve this problem thanks
Click to expand...

While you do need to fix this problem. Be aware that the dome light will not stay on and kill the battery. It will shut off after a time-out period. I don't recall what that period is, but it is less than twenty minutes.
 
my1stbabylink said:
ok ive tried messing around with the striker plate but all it does is push the door out too far, and the message board still says door ajar.

when the door is shut when i press the alarm the door beeps twice as if a door is open, so even when the key is out, the message center still reads the doors open,

i am just going to try to figure a way to cut or connect some wires so the message center thinks the door is closed,
i can hear the little spring click on the latch when the message center would read the door is fully closed, and when i undo it to that point, the message center beeps and says doors open,

the reason i need this done is because on the dash, im not able to get the "( ?? ) miles to empty", and i cant reset the message center either.

my question is now, does anyone know the electrical wires on the door latch connector? these is 4 wires, 3 on the bottom and 1 about 3 pins over at the top. it plugs directly into the door latch.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Just disconnect them one by one until the door ajar message goes out. Reconnect the ones that aren't related. (They're for the electric lock/unlock.)
I don't know the gen I wire colors.
 
thats good to know thanks, i just hate not being able to get the "miles to empty" in the cluster, its nice to read, plus i dont like the computer not letting me be able to reset it, but i can understand why, im just going to try to find a way to make the computer think the door is closed, i may have to connect 2 wires? i may have to slice all 4 wires until i find the right connection? thanks
 
joegr said:
Just disconnect them one by one until the door ajar message goes out. Reconnect the ones that aren't related. (They're for the electric lock/unlock.)
I don't know the gen I wire colors.
Click to expand...

i cant wait, this is so fun, i love messing with this car, lol
 
well before cutting any wires, i had the car on, and just unplugged the whole connector, and it said the door was still open, so im figuring when the door is shut is connects 2 wires to each other to message the computer the door is closed, if they arent connected for any reason the door is open to the computer, so does anyone think im right about this and that i need to find the 2 wires to connect?

or could it still be just one wire?
 
Okay, I got the polarity of the signal wrong, so disconnect = door open. If gen I is like gen II, then you need to connect the black wire to the black/yellow wire.
 
I GOT IT, thanks everyone, i had to cut 3 of the 4 wires before i found it out. i didnt cut the black one because i assumed its the negative for all 3 wires, and i had cut the thicker yellow one, but nothing happened, it was the 2 other wires, they were the "2colored ones", i just ended up crossing those 2 wires, i just kept playing around with it until i finnally heard the dash keep beeping every time i cross the right wires, so i taped it all up and its all good now!

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normally you would just have to cut the wires, with most cars the sensor grounds the wire when the doors are open, and cutting the wire prevents the computer from "seeing" this ground, however the LS sensors send ground to the computer when the door is shut, so just cutting the wires dont do anything, the door trigger wire needs to be grounded to make the car think that the door is closed


as you have the annoying part fixed i would make sure that the door latch is functioning properly, it would be terrible if you where going around a corner and the door just flew open and caused harm to one of your passegers because it wasnt closed properly and no one knew because one of the safty features of the car has been disabled (not to mention the law suite that would follow)
 
1LoudLS said:
normally you would just have to cut the wires, with most cars the sensor grounds the wire when the doors are open, and cutting the wire prevents the computer from "seeing" this ground, however the LS sensors send ground to the computer when the door is shut, so just cutting the wires dont do anything, the door trigger wire needs to be grounded to make the car think that the door is closed


as you have the annoying part fixed i would make sure that the door latch is functioning properly, it would be terrible if you where going around a corner and the door just flew open and caused harm to one of your passegers because it wasnt closed properly and no one knew because one of the safty features of the car has been disabled (not to mention the law suite that would follow)
Click to expand...

thanks for the concern, well either way, whether i cut the wires or left them the same, the car would still be in the same state, except for the message part, the door latches, just not far enough to hit the sensor, the door is secure, and if for any reason my door opened and my injector seat worked, i wouldnt mind, because i dont really drive with anyone i like, just me and my LS. now if that door swung open and hit a pole and hurt my baby, then i would have to sue myself. lol
 
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