door ajar light comes on but door shut

Unfortunately this is not only a G2 issue.
You car has the same switch inside the latch, and it triggers the door ajar message.
The switch you replaced is a domelight/alarm trigger switch.
In 97 they got rid of it, and incorporated the theater lightning into SCIL.

I'm sure I have the same switch inside but the only issue I have had with mine is that the dome lights would just come on for no reason and if I hadn't been out in the garage and watching TV, I probably never would have noticed this and then it started not venting sometimes. Then there were times when I went out to the garage and tried to use the keypad to unlock the car, (yes I keep it locked in the garage) and they keypad just acted like it had no power what so ever. I swapped out the both door jam switches with new Motorcraft switches and ever since, venting has worked perfect, the lights inside don't just come on for no reason and the keypad has worked every time I have tried using it. I only needed the drivers side switch but went ahead and done the passengers side because they're cheap and they control more than one would believe.

As for Gen 2's, I am seeing a lot of them now coming up with SCIL problems, switch problems, bad ECU's, telescoping steering column problems. It either don't move up and down or in and out. Mine stays in one position and it hasn't been moved probably in over a year. I have to admit, it is a nice looking feature but I wouldn't want it because it's bound to fail, especially after 15-20 years. A lot of things on either Gen can fail after that amount of time. Don't get me wrong, I don't hate Gen 2's, I just never really have been a fan of them because of their front end looks.
 
Terry, just get a Gen2, swap the front clip. Set the steering wheel where you want it and turn it off in driver Options menu
One of the first things I did on my 98 was put my seat where I wanted it, then unplugged it
 
I only needed the drivers side switch but went ahead and done the passengers side because they're cheap and they control more than one would believe.

While this is true, the first Gen door jamb switch has absolutely zero impact on the door ajar message, which is what the OP, and Ken have both problems with. :cool:

Don't confuse "the internet" more than it already is ;)
 
i bought 2 switchs supposedly the right ones? now where are they located and how do i get to them?
 
i bought 2 switchs supposedly the right ones? now where are they located and how do i get to them?

They're on the door latch itself; you're gonna have to remove the latch from the door to change that switch. There are two of them on the latch, here is a pic:

MarkDoorAjarExplodedPic.jpg
 
Terry, just get a Gen2, swap the front clip. Set the steering wheel where you want it and turn it off in driver Options menu
One of the first things I did on my 98 was put my seat where I wanted it, then unplugged it


Ahh Sapper, you make it sound so easy and "cheap" to do. :) I think I'll just stick with the Gen 1 and study getting the exhaust completed.

Sorry to cause confusion on here with the door jamb switch. Hopefully I won't run into the inner door switch problem. I guess I should have kept it out of the thread but still, it is a good part to go ahead and swap out, even though it has nothing to do with the "door ajar" message.
 
I tried twisting the switch out to no avail. I am at a loss. Do you have to twist it then pull out or just pull it out. If you have to twist it first i don't know what to do because it won't twist.
 
I do not have this problem but with the WD40 does it not really wash out all the lube in there? I would think that yes it is a lube but needs to be maintained afterwards with something like a spray lithium or graphite grease?

I agree, WD40 works great to penetrate so to speak and creep into those spots to free things up but I find for long lasting to spray something else after you free it up.

Yes. With white lithium grease. Funny that no one answered this question or at least acknowledged this yet. :rolleyes: If you just spray it with wd40 and call it good it can/will start sticking again. My buddy had this happen to him. He sprayed it with wd40 and it was only fixed for a short time. There's a reason it was applied from the factory. If a replacement latch comes dry, I would sure as hell put a coating on it. It protects from moisture also. A good thing to have on a switch in your door jamb!! LOL
 
I'm sure I have the same switch inside but the only issue I have had with mine is that the dome lights would just come on for no reason and if I hadn't been out in the garage and watching TV, I probably never would have noticed this and then it started not venting sometimes. Then there were times when I went out to the garage and tried to use the keypad to unlock the car, (yes I keep it locked in the garage) and they keypad just acted like it had no power what so ever. I swapped out the both door jam switches with new Motorcraft switches and ever since, venting has worked perfect, the lights inside don't just come on for no reason and the keypad has worked every time I have tried using it. I only needed the drivers side switch but went ahead and done the passengers side because they're cheap and they control more than one would believe.

As for Gen 2's, I am seeing a lot of them now coming up with SCIL problems, switch problems, bad ECU's, telescoping steering column problems. It either don't move up and down or in and out. Mine stays in one position and it hasn't been moved probably in over a year. I have to admit, it is a nice looking feature but I wouldn't want it because it's bound to fail, especially after 15-20 years. A lot of things on either Gen can fail after that amount of time. Don't get me wrong, I don't hate Gen 2's, I just never really have been a fan of them because of their front end looks.

Wait a minute! Are you saying that if the key pad sometimes don't work then you need new door jam switches? My key pad and remote only work 95% of the time. The other 5% I have to use the key.
 
Wait a minute! Are you saying that if the key pad sometimes don't work then you need new door jam switches? My key pad and remote only work 95% of the time. The other 5% I have to use the key.

Yes Spree, I got mine from rockauto very cheap for Motorcraft replacements and I haven't had one bit of trouble with my keypad anymore. If it takes you more than 45 seconds to replace one of those switches, something is wrong. One 15mm socket is all you need. Use a deep well and you should be able to turn it by hand. Keypad hasn't failed me since replacing them and mine was 50/50 but now it's 100%. Been a few months now.
 
Yes Spree, I got mine from rockauto very cheap for Motorcraft replacements and I haven't had one bit of trouble with my keypad anymore. If it takes you more than 45 seconds to replace one of those switches, something is wrong. One 15mm socket is all you need. Use a deep well and you should be able to turn it by hand. Keypad hasn't failed me since replacing them and mine was 50/50 but now it's 100%. Been a few months now.

I was getting ready to order a door lock actuator from rockauto anyway. I guess I'll add a couple door jam switches to the order and see what happens.
 
I was getting ready to order a door lock actuator from rockauto anyway. I guess I'll add a couple door jam switches to the order and see what happens.

Seems like they were $3 to $4 each so it's not major money. My switch ended up popping out onto the garage floor. The whole button came out of the switch so, I had no choice but I did kinda help it pop out by pressing it in and letting it snap back out on it's own. I didn't know the button part was going to pop out with the spring too. I needed a new one anyway because it was causing all kinds of weird things to happen. Like I said, not one problem with the keypad, interior lights or venting since I put the switches in. Can't go wrong with replacing both with new.
 

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