crownvicjim
Well-Known LVC Member
finally time to tackle this project. i am using the how to off of tccoa's site. is this the BEST info out there? is there anything else i should know? thanks.
doin my jmod tonite what do i need to know
- Thread starter crownvicjim
- Start date
unity
Dedicated LVC Member
Just know its A LOT easier than it looks. Drop the plate and drill holes. I recommend you uses a marker and mark each hole with the size drill bit you need. New drill bits are best. Have someone verify the sizes and correspondence to the existing holes. Keep drill level, a press works best. Any side movement may make the hole larger.
If you find a yellow plug in the pan, its nothing - tose it.
If you find a yellow plug in the pan, its nothing - tose it.
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
1. When you lower the valve body be aware that there are some check balls and a small filter screen that you will find in the channels. Don't loose these, get the VB to a table so that you can note their position before you start the plate brake down.
2. Get lots of brake cleaner to keep things clean.
3. Make sure you have a large size snap ring pliers.
4. Be careful with the wiring as it is brittle.
5. Drain the TC also.
6. I installed a B&M pain drain kit so I drilled a small hole to drain my tranny.
7. Make sure you have the VB Gaskets, and plate gaskets. Your filter (if it is a good one ) should have a rubber gasket with it (reusable)
8. Take your time, it is not hard to do, but the benefits will be very worth while.
2. Get lots of brake cleaner to keep things clean.
3. Make sure you have a large size snap ring pliers.
4. Be careful with the wiring as it is brittle.
5. Drain the TC also.
6. I installed a B&M pain drain kit so I drilled a small hole to drain my tranny.
7. Make sure you have the VB Gaskets, and plate gaskets. Your filter (if it is a good one ) should have a rubber gasket with it (reusable)
8. Take your time, it is not hard to do, but the benefits will be very worth while.
crownvicjim
Well-Known LVC Member
thanks guys. im going to hold off til tomorrow when i have more time. i dont want to rush.... i spent the last hour trying to locate all the right drill bits. on the tccoa site for the drill bit sizes it lists two columns(one for mild and one for 300-450 hp) i have a stock 97lsc. should i stick with the mild or just go with the 300-450hp? i got the bits for the mild right now. dont know what the difference would be(even more snap?)
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
It all depends on how hard you want it to shift, the bigger the holes and the less/lighter the springs the harder it will shift.
Markviiiedrea
Speed Bump
Snap your fingers, snap your neck!:headbang: my back end swings out on first and seconed shift! But I have the BE Controls shift kit.
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
Go 300 - 450
hotrod markVIII
Active LVC Member
I went with the 300 to 450. definatly worth it.
better than doing the low one and then wanting more.
better than doing the low one and then wanting more.
crownvicjim
Well-Known LVC Member
little difference between mild and 300-450? if so, it wont hurt to go with the 300-450 at all, will it? i do plan on some other mods(no power adders though)so might as well go with the 300-450? thanks.
unity
Dedicated LVC Member
You can do whatever you want. Its when you go mild and have 400 HP thrown at it you wont get the exact results you should. Since you stock. Go with 300 to 450 since that covers your butt. My only point is that you could do all of them and with a stock setup you wont notice anything. Make sense? Thats why its setup that way, by HP numbers, not by "responsiveness", "shift speed", etc.
Have fun and let us know how it turns out!
Have fun and let us know how it turns out!
hotrod markVIII
Active LVC Member
also good time to swap to the deeper pan if your car isnt already equiped
Kevin O'Connell
Well-Known LVC Member
Jmod
Where's the link to this mod from TCCOA? What's the deal on the BE shift kit? Which is better? Will you really not see any diff in shift firmness if the car is stock?
Where's the link to this mod from TCCOA? What's the deal on the BE shift kit? Which is better? Will you really not see any diff in shift firmness if the car is stock?
When I j-modded my 97 t-bird, it could chirp first and second shifts stock.... so that's a big difference to me. You can find the articles to do this in the tccoa.com tech articles under tranny. The first three articles are all on the j-mod. It's a lot of reading but it's important to read all of it.
unity
Dedicated LVC Member
Here ya go:
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html#
Third section "Jerry's Modifications" = JMod.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html#
Third section "Jerry's Modifications" = JMod.
Bear in mind, that page is primarily written for Thunderbirds, and Cougars which didn't get a 4R70W till that model year.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
thats why im just going to get a shift kit, wayyyy to much misinformation on the internet.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
my point exactly
Markviiiedrea
Speed Bump
I beg to differ, heat is what kills a tranny most shift kits including the j-mod (BECAUSE IT IS A SHIFT KIT!) when done proporly will help the transmission longevity by decreasing the time the clutch packs are engaged.
A tq converter with out the proper cooler wiil do way more damage then a shift kit. A j-mod is cheaper but the proper shift kit will be more efective.
I have driven a mark with 4.10s and the j-mod vs a mark viii with 4.10s and a shift kit, I would say that the one with the kit in it had a crisper shift and pounded through the gears better with more of a response to the throttle.