Could I get a second opinion on this: first time seeing it. v.fuel pump replacement

Myco

Myco

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I have a gen II.

This is the ford focus SVT fuel pump by motorcraft. Part number PFS204. I've heard that you want the ford focus svt pump that has a greet top but can't find the 'green top one'.

Amazon.com: Motorcraft PFS204 Fuel Pump and Hanger with Sender: Automotive

Also I've always heard you need to drop the gas tank to replace the pump but came across this write-up on how to replace the fuel pump.

Good stuff on this forum, enough to save me a lot of money!! One thing was lacking though, a step-by-step how to guide. Here it is.

First off, no matter how many times the dealer or anybody else tells you that you MUST drop the tank, you don't have to. I was told it would be about $1,100 to get it done and I did it myself in under an hour for only $350. That $350 was getting the part from the dealer. DO NOT GET THE PUMP FROM ADVANCE AUTO OR AUTO ZONE!! Napa has it listed on their website but when I called they said it was unavailable. No special tools needed to remove the blue "nut," just some ingenuity.

Steps:
-Disconnect battery and make sure you are in a well ventilated space.

-Remove the lower part of the back seat (2 little locking mechanisms on bottom front of the cushion.)

-Pull up the rubber matting and find the 6" round rubber "plug" on the passenger side. Wedge a flat tip screwdriver in and pry it out without punching holes in the rubber.

-Disconnect wire plug and hoses. The red and white clips stay connected to the white tank cap and the black hoses pull out from the middle as you squeeze the clips. Kind of a pain just be patient, you don't want to break the hoses.

-Give a tap with a screwdriver and hammer to loosen (lefty loosey) the blue "nut" and remove the cover.

-Hold the white tank cap with one hand while you reach in and squeeze the two tabs towards the center of the pump with the other hand. This releases the pump from the tank mount. It will slide straight up and out. You will have to work it a little to get the float out.

-Recommend doing a quick inspection of the tank at this point to see if you have any corrosion issues or anything in the fuel that looks like it doesn't belong. Just be sure to use a flashlight that doesn't burn really hot as Gasoline vapors have an extremely low flash point.

-Insert the new pump and ensure it seats properly, clicking all the way down into the mount. Be careful with the float when inserting.

-Connect the hoses and wire plug, ensuring they seat properly as well. Make sure you have the gasket and blue "nut" on before you connect them.

-Screw the blue "nut" back on. It can give you a hard time but don't force it. The last thing you want is to cross-thread it so it won't seal completely.

-Replace the rubber plug and the rear seat. Don't force the seat in either. When locking the front back into the locking mechanisms, you have to open the latches as you did when taking it out in order to put the seat back down all the way. If you break the latches the seat bottom will always be loose.

-Cycle the pump by turning the ignition on and off a few times to get fuel into the pump. Should fire right up.

If you haven't done the fuel filter yet, I would just to make sure your fuel delivery system is clean. It take maybe 30-45 minutes. A clogged filter can strain a pump pretty bad and end up burning it out a lot faster. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Plus need to get one of these things.

lt940.jpg


from autozone.

Am I missing anything?

OHh... btw. Anyone know happens when the relay goes bad for the fuel pump? Does the pump just stop working? Which relay is it?

btw: referring to this post.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=36833
(might be an addition for the 'noobs' thread ? )
 
well that is the correct part number.
its possible they just aren't made with green plastic anymore.

you don't "need" that tool. it is possible with a hammer and screwdriver if you are careful.

and i'm pretty darn sure the tank has to come out, or at least down. mark viii's do not have an access panel under the seat.
 
First, its been mentioned many times that the tank/exhaust do NOT have to be dropped. I know I have brought it up a few times myself. Its really easy just to drop the passenger strap and loosen the driver strap and let it rest on a floor jack to control lowering/raising. After all, I have done so twice on my Mark. Both times I did not touch the exhaust, just the straps.

As for the write-up you quoted. Not sure what car that is for since there is no 6" plug that I have ever seen in a Mark. At least a Gen one. In fact there was discussion of making a quick access hole but it was decided it may impact the structural integrity of the unibody. During that discussion I would assume that if there was a hole, in either Gen, it would have been mentioned. And I am not sure about the clips they discuss.
 
That is the part number for the entire basket, pump and all.
I ordered mine from summit. You can use the fuel level sending unit also, just use your old arm.
 
unity said:
First, its been mentioned many times that the tank/exhaust do NOT have to be dropped. I know I have brought it up a few times myself. Its really easy just to drop the passenger strap and loosen the driver strap and let it rest on a floor jack to control lowering/raising. After all, I have done so twice on my Mark. Both times I did not touch the exhaust, just the straps.

As for the write-up you quoted. Not sure what car that is for since there is no 6" plug that I have ever seen in a Mark. At least a Gen one. In fact there was discussion of making a quick access hole but it was decided it may impact the structural integrity of the unibody. During that discussion I would assume that if there was a hole, in either Gen, it would have been mentioned. And I am not sure about the clips they discuss. It could be the Walbro that has to be reversed on the wiring. One of them does.
Click to expand...

All true.. The tank doesn't have to be removed, only lowered down but requires a little bit of reaching. Any access panel under the seat would have to be cut and IMO, that's stupid. If you get the Focus pump, the positive and negative wires have to be reversed or it will not work. Just letting you know before you come back and wondering why it's not starting or even coming on. That could be for the Walbro pump but one of them needs the wiring reversed in order to work.
 
I did two Walbro pumps, wiring was normal. So probably the focus pump.

FYI: Gen ones get Walbro, Gen IIs can get a Focus pump. Just so a newbie does not ask.
 
Here you go; the focus pump is a nice upgrade, the check valve is in the line but you dont have to use it; many have done it with no issues. I did but its a pita to get the lines apart. I also used the new sending unit with my old float arm, if I remember right the sender is on the opposite side in the focus basket and the arm swings the other way.. so you flip it over and install it on your old basket.
As for the wires, I always check them but the focus pump is clearly marked; the new pump comes with a new style plug.

IMAG0041.jpg


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Thanks for all the replies. I'll buy the pump tonight. I'm buying from amazon as I'll get it monday for 3$ shipping

I'm off to look for a walk-through on dropping the gas tank now.
 
Why in the hell are you reading instructions for an LS? :confused:

I've posted all you need to know in the threads that NoLimit95 linked above. ;)
 
DLF said:
Why in the hell are you reading instructions for an LS? :confused:

I've posted all you need to know in the threads that NoLimit95 linked above. ;)
Click to expand...

Oop.. sorry. Didn't look at that.

I did see your post before I bought the pump. But I think you can understand there is a bit of confusion on the topic of wire reversals.

BTW, I keep reading about "reversing the polarity", but that is not correct. Positive is still positive, and negative is still negative, it's just that the Mark VIII color coded wires are counterintuitive.
Click to expand...

That clears it up. ;-) Just wasn't sure who to believe here. When I read 'wiring reversal' I think reverse the polarity. (many 12v motors will work backwards with reverse polarity so... ) I was just going to follow your wiring scheme to make sure.

So that's all I need to know about putting the pump in. I don't want to wait till I get under the car to figure out how to replace the pump, the decision of dropping the gas tank or not... There should be some posts about that but I haven't done that research yet.

Once again. Thanks for the replies.
 
Whether or not the exhaust will need to be dropped to allow the tank to come down enough to replace the pump will depend upon your exhaust system. Mine tucks in very tightly and needs to be removed, yours may not.

The tank doesn't need to be removed, just drop the front right corner enough to allow you to disconnect the fuel lines, unbolt the fuel pump cover, and remove the pump basket. Disconnect the wiring harness plug near the tunnel and remove the clip that holds the fuel lines to the tank near the front right corner before you slowly lower the tank. Disconnect the fuel lines as soon as you can reach them, well before the tank is dropped far enough to remove the pump cover.

And be careful not to damage the float arm as you remove the basket, which is held in the tank by two plastic clips (one on either side, circled in the pic below).

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