Tru-Blu
Dedicated LVC Member
Of course it had to be right after my extended warranty expired - but it's still pretty much my fault. I'll explain -
About 6 months ago while driving to work, the temp gauge immediately spiked to max, kicked off the Check Temperature warning (and associated P1299 code of joy), but did not put the engine in limp mode. I was able to get to work fine and when I drove home that day, the car was completely fine. I put my XCal scanner on it to confirm the P1299 code, and cleared it - thinking that if it happened again I would take it in since it was still covered under the extended warranty. I figured it was just an air burp in the system since it never went into limp mode and actually came back to normal temp while I was driving.
Fast forward 3 months, and I'm driving home and the car spikes again but this time it does go into limp mode. I pull over, shut it down, wait about 3 minutes while it burps and gurgles, and then restart it. Starts and goes to normal temperature range. Car was fine again until this past week - which was about 2 weeks after my extended warranty expired.
Last week, the car spiked about 3 times, and got to the point where it would go into limp mode every time it happened. Pulling over and allowing it to burp the air out worked until the last time, where the temp stayed up and I truly had to limp home.
At this point, I was suspecting thermostat so that's where I started. Last weekend, I put a new thermostat in. When I pulled the old one out, it was confirmed as it was stuck in the closed position. So, after breaking and replacing the radiator drain plug, I put everything back together with no leaks or issues. I was able to bleed the system in just 2 passes, and took the car out for a drive. Here's where the next issue reared it's head.
The air that was coming out was WAY too hot. I started adjusting climate controls, and it didn't make one bit of difference. So, the logical assumption was the DCCV. I checked the fuse, and unfortunately it was fine. I don't know if the valve is stuck in the open or closed position, but I'm assuming that it's stuck in the closed. I also don't know if the thermostat caused the DCCV to go bad, or vice-versa but I guess it doesn't matter.
So, to make a long thread longer, I'm just asking for confirmation that my suspicions are correct. I'll start looking back through the threads for part numbers from rockauto, partstrain, and calling Maxx. I'll probably replace the upper hose while I'm at it since it's a high-risk part for failing too. Don't know if I'll do the Degas bottle or not.
I've looked through a bunch of threads, and I'm thinking that this is the best way to go - as opposed to getting a clue and taking it in under the extended warranty the first time the code kicked out.
Thanks,
Tru the Clueless
About 6 months ago while driving to work, the temp gauge immediately spiked to max, kicked off the Check Temperature warning (and associated P1299 code of joy), but did not put the engine in limp mode. I was able to get to work fine and when I drove home that day, the car was completely fine. I put my XCal scanner on it to confirm the P1299 code, and cleared it - thinking that if it happened again I would take it in since it was still covered under the extended warranty. I figured it was just an air burp in the system since it never went into limp mode and actually came back to normal temp while I was driving.
Fast forward 3 months, and I'm driving home and the car spikes again but this time it does go into limp mode. I pull over, shut it down, wait about 3 minutes while it burps and gurgles, and then restart it. Starts and goes to normal temperature range. Car was fine again until this past week - which was about 2 weeks after my extended warranty expired.
Last week, the car spiked about 3 times, and got to the point where it would go into limp mode every time it happened. Pulling over and allowing it to burp the air out worked until the last time, where the temp stayed up and I truly had to limp home.
At this point, I was suspecting thermostat so that's where I started. Last weekend, I put a new thermostat in. When I pulled the old one out, it was confirmed as it was stuck in the closed position. So, after breaking and replacing the radiator drain plug, I put everything back together with no leaks or issues. I was able to bleed the system in just 2 passes, and took the car out for a drive. Here's where the next issue reared it's head.
The air that was coming out was WAY too hot. I started adjusting climate controls, and it didn't make one bit of difference. So, the logical assumption was the DCCV. I checked the fuse, and unfortunately it was fine. I don't know if the valve is stuck in the open or closed position, but I'm assuming that it's stuck in the closed. I also don't know if the thermostat caused the DCCV to go bad, or vice-versa but I guess it doesn't matter.
So, to make a long thread longer, I'm just asking for confirmation that my suspicions are correct. I'll start looking back through the threads for part numbers from rockauto, partstrain, and calling Maxx. I'll probably replace the upper hose while I'm at it since it's a high-risk part for failing too. Don't know if I'll do the Degas bottle or not.
I've looked through a bunch of threads, and I'm thinking that this is the best way to go - as opposed to getting a clue and taking it in under the extended warranty the first time the code kicked out.
Thanks,
Tru the Clueless
