My 2000 v8 overheated about 2 months ago then fine until recently, now it is doing it again. I found the thermostat hoop that holds the rod completely broken in half. I replaced the thermostat and bled the system but still overheating. I am going to bleed it again but have a feeling I will need to replace coolant tubes. How much do all the tubes cost? Previous owner replaced degas bottle within the last year. Also the heater has never been great but now it doesn't work atall.
Coolant tubes
- Thread starter Cams-76
- Start date
After reading around and searching I decided I need to bleed the coolant system again. How long does it typically take for the coolant to solid stream out of the bleed tube? I went by the instructions step by step and couldn't get a good stream with the car idling for a good five minutes. The temp reached almost half way, that when I gave up. I started the process with the car cold as I didn't see where it specified in the instructions.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You have air leaks from failing plastic parts (likely) or you didn't fill it according to procedure (possible?).
Hey it gives you guys something to gripe about. Didn't realize it was such a covered problem, yes I should have searched first. I still had a question after searching and printing the detailed bleeding instructions and trying them twice. How long does it typically take to get a decent flow out of the bleeder? I understand I will most likely be replacing the plastic parts, but I would like to rule out needing to bleed it before I start ordering parts.
There is a thread out there listing the parts. I think I saw it in the last 30 days. You are looking at close to $400 to $500 for the parts...I believe.
Some other threads:
Tech article (see in Forum for tech articles): bleeding instructions: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/CoolingSystemDraining/
Thread on some parts: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?60321-Coolant-Outlet-Pipe-cracked
There are better threads out there....
msgtusmc
Dedicated LVC Member
I paid $1,100 to have all the cooling parts replaced by an independent mechanic on my V6. Then replaced the cooling manifold with the 5 hoses on top behind the radiator. If I had to do again on any car like this I would have traded it for a more less complicated vehicle that was a whole lot more reliable. Reliability and Lincoln LS are polar opposites. The Lincoln LS is probably one of the worst vehicles to buy used, high mileage ever built, V6 or V8! What ever you paid to buy a high mileage LS it will cost you the same to drive it the 1st year!
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That one is for gen II, but he has a gen I.
Fortunately, the gen I parts are less expensive and there is an all metal replacement for the thermostat housing available.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...Aluminum-Upgraded-Thermostat-housing-GEN-1-V8
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
I just got all of the coolant parts for less then three hundred dollars.
Rock auto
I bought the metal coolant tree
The upper hose with the plastic T
And from Fords part direct I found the heater tube assembly
The only part that cost me more was the lower hose cause I had to buy it in the spot, since I thought that was my main problem at the time which turned out to be a hole in the radiator, and it was 150 at the dealer.
Personally I would use aftermarket parts,
And before you guys go on the rant of motorcraft only
It's the motorcraft parts that failed to begin with.
Plus the value of the car and troubles that are to come that are well documented I say go the route of most cost effective and save the extras dollars for a better more reliable less probmatic vehicle.
Also save yourself a few bucks and set a day aside to do the work yourself. I'm now waiting on the housing at T hose the heater tube came to day so next weekend I will be tackling this. Also I bought a 8mm ratcheting wrench with swivel head to get to the back bolts on the coolant tree. If all else fail I'll just cut the old part to make it easier since I can just about squeeze it with my hand and it will crumble.
I have 196 thousand miles on the car. If she make it to two with allege problems I read on this site dating back to 2000 I would say she has more then did her service.
Rock auto
I bought the metal coolant tree
The upper hose with the plastic T
And from Fords part direct I found the heater tube assembly
The only part that cost me more was the lower hose cause I had to buy it in the spot, since I thought that was my main problem at the time which turned out to be a hole in the radiator, and it was 150 at the dealer.
Personally I would use aftermarket parts,
And before you guys go on the rant of motorcraft only
It's the motorcraft parts that failed to begin with.
Plus the value of the car and troubles that are to come that are well documented I say go the route of most cost effective and save the extras dollars for a better more reliable less probmatic vehicle.
Also save yourself a few bucks and set a day aside to do the work yourself. I'm now waiting on the housing at T hose the heater tube came to day so next weekend I will be tackling this. Also I bought a 8mm ratcheting wrench with swivel head to get to the back bolts on the coolant tree. If all else fail I'll just cut the old part to make it easier since I can just about squeeze it with my hand and it will crumble.
I have 196 thousand miles on the car. If she make it to two with allege problems I read on this site dating back to 2000 I would say she has more then did her service.
Hey now, be nice lol.
hite337
Hite Performance
Dont use the Dorman degas bottle.....I've said this a bunch but its worth mentioning again and always. The Dorman bottle is thinner and weaker than the motorcraft. The Dorman cap is different too...and you cant buy just the Dorman cap and the motorcraft cap wont fit. Most motorcraft bottles last 100k miles or more. Thats pretty good. I havent had a dorman last more than 20k.
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
I think it depends on who owned the vehicle prior, cause I bought mines used and with in the first year the only thing went wrong was a cracked coolant tree cap, cause I changed the thermostat. Which wasn't the real problem turned out a year later it was the cooling fan, and thanks to this site I read a post where one of them members dad paid thousand to get the system replaced, and he used the sea foam trans tune, and got it to working. So went his route 10 bucks and the fan kicked right in later on in the weeks. So what I do now is. When I change my oil I buy a can of sea foam trans tune, and transmission fluid and drain it out and replace the fluid I pull out with the trans tune and quart of transmission fluid haven't had a problem with it yet.