If the ball joint is spining freely before the castle nut can get down far enough to put the locking pin in then the ball joint is worn and should be replaced.
What do you mean 'locking pin" there were no locking pins.
Ohh.. I got my rod's mixed up. I'm talking about the sway bar end link. The outer tie rod's looked good on my car and if I replace them I'll need a new alignment. So what I did was put the sway bar end links on (since they were horribly shot..I could shake them and the ball joints would just flop around) and am going to drive it around and see how it feels. I've put off the bushings until tomorrow. I need to take the open ended wrench back to sears and get the 30mm socket. (save myself 15$) and then I need to find where to get the oversized pickle bar from.
Bill, sorry I couldn't pay attention this morning. I was horribly distracted. I took a good look at the bushings today and they outer's look good but the inner's are shot so the outer's and inner's both have to go. Could you explain to me how to got the outer's off without the pickle bar?
You have to pull the strut rod all the way out to swap the bushings. In order to remove the strut rod you have to remove one side of the LCA. If you have a ball joint tool wide enough then its better to do it from that end. I will tell you a standard ball joint tool (what you call a pickle tool) that you smack with a hammer is not wide enough. You need one for a truck OR an air tool one to remove the ball joing from the spindle. That is why I just unbolted the LCA from the K-member instead but you have to also unbolt the strut from the LCA.
Its no big deal at all, 2 bolts and the LCA drops down and the strut rod slides right out. Duck Soup.
Now if you are gonna get the socket make sure you have a big enough ratchet as a standard 3/8 is not gonna be long enough. Also you are gonna have to get an alignment anyway so if your tie rods are worn at all then you should go ahead and swap them now.
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