Clunks when going over bumps - everything new

OEM swaybar links fixed it.

suspension is super crispy fresh now, rides like a new car.

The moog has a stupid design, they are harder to replace (hit the brake lines) and the nuts that came with them didnt work so i reused the old ones. For some reason one of the nuts was loose at the bar, not sure what happened there. I put the OEM ones on which i got from ford CHEAPER then the moog ones. They arent greasable but they are TRW and soo much better design. boots are clamped on not pushed on and grease doesnt come out when you turn the wheel lock to lock like the moogs.

I put lockwashers at the spindle and swaybar on both sides and all i can say is HOT DAMN, im sooooooooooo happy with it.:D
 
so for future reference, im sold on this combo

TRW EVERYTHING WITH OEM STRUTROD BUSHINGS...soooo nice. :D
 
so for future reference, im sold on this combo

TRW EVERYTHING WITH OEM STRUTROD BUSHINGS...soooo nice. :D

Did you order the strut rod bushings with new sleeves? If so, how much were they? I gotta order some on pay day. :(
 
That loose nut might have caused the problem. If there was any play, that would make noise.
 
That loose nut might have caused the problem. If there was any play, that would make noise.

yeah it definitely was the problem. my buddy shook the car while i watched it bang around. what gets me, is i had it tight, i had ford double check my work and they said everything was tight, and when i pulled it in the garage it was loose by hand...

All is good now
 
Did you order the strut rod bushings with new sleeves? If so, how much were they? I gotta order some on pay day. :(

the sleeves are crazy expensive, you dont need new ones if you get the old ones out without damaging them.

Its like 100 bucks for all the bushings and like 300 or something for the kits with the sleeves and washers...crazy

i reused the old ones, well i actually messed mine up and got old ones from micah i took out of one of his parts car.

What you want to do is hit the inner sleeve on the backside of the bushings where they go into the subframe with a grinder. Once you grind the lip off it will come apart and then you have to cut 1/4" or so off the inner sleeve, deburr it, grind the end smooth, to make sure the inner sleeve is shorter then the outer. Whatever you do, dont damage the flat part of the sleeves that hold the washers. Grind the inner part of the rear one, thats where they are connected stock if they havent been changed before.
 
with the hood open push up and down till you can hear the click clang or whatever the noise may be, and check the top of your struts, i bought oem ones and i had a clang, the top plate would rub againt my mounts
 
I can tell you from experience that the Thunderbird cam bolts and washers are not the same size as the Mark Vlll, That is how my problem got started, and getting the correct ones from Max fixed the problem.
 
I can tell you from experience that the Thunderbird cam bolts and washers are not the same size as the Mark Vlll, That is how my problem got started, and getting the correct ones from Max fixed the problem.

I have the ones from a 97 thunderbird in mine...they are the exact same size, i pulled them out of the junkyard, matched them side by side, installed them, and had it aligned...same suspension. They were identical in size and length, same with the washers.
 
with the hood open push up and down till you can hear the click clang or whatever the noise may be, and check the top of your struts, i bought oem ones and i had a clang, the top plate would rub againt my mounts

i already fixed my problem but what are you talking about, what mounts was the top plate rubbing against? the top of the strut bolts to the body using 3 bolts. the only way that would make sound if it was installed improperly or the nuts were loose.
 
the sleeves are crazy expensive, you dont need new ones if you get the old ones out without damaging them.

Its like 100 bucks for all the bushings and like 300 or something for the kits with the sleeves and washers...crazy

i reused the old ones, well i actually messed mine up and got old ones from micah i took out of one of his parts car.

What you want to do is hit the inner sleeve on the backside of the bushings where they go into the subframe with a grinder. Once you grind the lip off it will come apart and then you have to cut 1/4" or so off the inner sleeve, deburr it, grind the end smooth, to make sure the inner sleeve is shorter then the outer. Whatever you do, dont damage the flat part of the sleeves that hold the washers. Grind the inner part of the rear one, thats where they are connected stock if they havent been changed before.

I dont have a choice. The Autozone sleeve is smaller then the OEM sleeve and I bought the car with Autozone parts on it. I have to buythe whole kit. :(
Well unless I bought the SCP kit with the poly versions.
 
Darnit. You mean I have to buy ANOTHER replacement part for the suspension. I'm in the same boat as the OP and I have the mood sway bar end links. sunofa..
 
the oem links lasted 3 years, about 2 years of driving ...

having the exact same problem again :rolleyes:
 

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