Clicking/Ticking noise under hard/full acceleration. 05LSV8 50k

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Chase4534

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It's like someone turned a bunch of marbles loose in my intake. It's only under hard acceleration. I've had this problem before years ago on a different car can't remember what it was. Driving me crazy I keep this LS serviced. Syn fluids reg oil changes new coils and plugs 93 octane from shells or Chevrons can't pin this noise down but it's ONLY under hard/full acceleration. Thanks for the help.
 
Stop driving it!

It's the timing chain & tensioners, you keep it up and you'll skip a tooth and end up with an offset on the exhaust cam.
It'll wreck the motor if you keep up the hard accelerations. For an 05 w/ 50K, tells me it's been beat on everyday.

GL
 
I think you may be jumping to the wrong conclusion. On gen II, it's probably not the chains. If it is the chains, you should also hear them when you start the engine cold, at idle. Of course, you could be that one in a million unlucky guy.

Are you using the correct octane gasoline? Have you tried a couple of tanks from a different gas station? (I had this once, and it was water in the gas from one particular station that I was using.)
Maybe your knock sensor has failed?
If you have high miles on this engine, maybe your need a valve lash adjustment? (But, I would think you would hear this at idle too...) Edit: I think this can be completely ruled out at only 50K miles.
Check engine light on?
 
Some possibilities:

Maybe the idle tensioner? Are you sure the sound is coming from the engine? Maybe its exhaust related? Exhaust manifold gaskets? Heat shield, catalytic converter?
 
Ahhhhh....... The old pre-detonation problem. Both my LSes do it under full throttle, right around 4500K+ RPM. My old 2000 started when they went from 92 to 91 octane (I know, 1 octane rating?????????). I'm sure mine is caused by the crap The People's Republik of Kahleefornya calls gasoline, as it does it whether I use Shell, Chevron, 76 or even Costco! We have more additives than a Twinky!
 
Only reason for jumping on that conclusion was the fact the OP already stated the 93 octane from various fuel stations.
My money is on the timing chain tensioners. I can't help but think that it's at it's early stage of developing slack,
if it gets worse it should start to sound like it during idle as well.

I did however forget about GEN I vs. GEN II tensioner quality/upgrade.
 
Has anyone used the knock detector plugin for the torque app? I've never had a problem with gas, but would it be effective at testing it?
 
BigRigLS said:
Only reason for jumping on that conclusion was the fact the OP already stated the 93 octane from various fuel stations.
My money is on the timing chain tentioners. I can't help but think that it's at it's early stage of developing slack,
if it gets worse it should start to sound like it during idle as well.

I did however forget about GEN I vs. GEN II tentioner quality/upgrade.
Click to expand...

But like Joe said, it would be very noticeable at start-up when the oil pressure is low.
 
I guess .... just thought perhaps it's at the early stage of developing the slack in the chain and it right now only doing it under load.

I'm to used to thinking GEN I with it's bad tensioners.


---- EDIT: I myself got rid of a slight ticking (not marbles) by replacing RP oil with Mobile1, then further switched it out to 0W20 M1.
 
I as well did experience a slight tap in the engine when using a different oil.. I switched out to Mobil1 and after 2 oil changes it went away completely and hasn't returned at all since.
 
jjcool00 said:
I as well did experience a slight tap in the engine when using a different oil.. I switched out to Mobil1 and after 2 oil changes it went away completely and hasn't returned at all since.
Click to expand...

+1 Yup, long live Mobile 1

stop running RP oil was an LVC recommendation from here. (general)
Using M1 0W20 oil was an LVC recommendation from here. (joegr)


No more ticking ... but it was never a grinding, clattering marbles sound though.
 
IIRC there is a date change floating around here somewhere that you could check against your build date...
 
I might have over stated it with the marbles, this car has pretty low miles, it was a repo I got it at Auction for 8200$. The previous owner stopped making his payments and put the car in storage for over a year and a half before it was recovered. When I first looked at it I was suppressed by how clean it was. Nothing about the car suggested it wasn't well taken care of. I highly doubt it's a timing issue. It's really a light clicking/ ticking sound that I only heard when I floored it from 30mph. The sound came on right at the end of the rpm range just before it shifted. It was the first time I'd really opened it up I've only had it a few months. I'm using Mobil syn oil, it wasn't Mobil one it was the other syn oil they have. I've got 2k on this oil so far. I used to live in so cal where they only have 91 oct and all kinds of adds but I'm back in texas now and we have 93 and that's all I use and only from shell, chev, or Exxon. I never hear any noises at idle or cold. I do have a cel light on but it's a cat code. When I got the car it had one bad coil. This isn't my first LS so before I drove outta that auction I went and picked up 8 cop's and 8 plugs (ngk) because they were outta motorcraft and replaced them. Now it was obviously driven long enough to cause the sensor to throw a cat code but I'm not loosing HP or gas mileage so I know the cat isn't stopped up I'm going to replace it but I haven't recived my mag direct fits yet. Like I said originally I remember having an issue similar to this one years back on a different vehicle but I can't remember what the fix was. I appreciate everyone chiming in please continue to do so I hate it when the slightest thing is off with one of my cars I like to keep them in perfect running condition but I gotta figure this out.
 
I had an intermittent issue that was very similar to what you are describing. At high throttle in the upper end of the RPM range it would get a knock sound that reminded me of like a baby rattle. This always happened before I had a coil failure. I would also see the car starting to idle a little more noticably (rougher) and some days it just felt underpowered. These three signs of the Coilocalypse always came right before the coil started dropping spark altogether.

Not sure if that helps, but maybe double check your plugs and coils. Maybe you got an oil leak or something.
 
The cel is p0420 and its on the same bank that had the bad coil when I bought the LS. I really hope that the rattle/clicking is coming from the bad cat but like I said the cat is obviously bad enough to register with a cel but its not causing any power or gas mileage issues. It usually averages a 23.5 to 24mpg after a two hour drive on I-10. Lets pretend that it's a coil going bad like someone said earlier and your not showing any codes for bad coils how do you find a coil that's potentially going out? I haven't noticed any type of an oil leak, I don't see any spots or signs of leaks when the car is on the lift. Like I said I noticed this rattle/ clicking for the first time last night at the very end of the rpm range when I floored it, I was already going about 30mph. I rarely stand on car like that, but when I did that's what I heard.
 
If it is a coil, you probably won't be able to find it without doing a stress test. (It's probably cheaper to just replace them all.)
The oil leak to check for is not something that will drip down under the car. You take the coil covers off and the coils out and look for oil pooling in any of the coil wells. If it is, you need to replace the valve cover gaskets.
I'm still thinking pinging or cat, more to cat now. Pinging usually shows up a medium acceleration, not full acceleration.
 
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