Check engine Light and no power brakes

chris

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I get an intermittent CEL with code p1506, and my power brakes are kind of off and on as well. If the booster is leaking can it cause the CEL? And can you change the booster without removing the master cylinder? Or could something else cause both things?
 
Check the grommet and check valve on the front of the booster. Also check the vac lines that feed it. I bet you have cracks at the T on the top drivers side of the plenum.
 
Ill check that out thank you.

well I checked the vacuum lines out and replaced the bad one but still no power brakes. Also checked the check valve and grommet.. Its making plenty of vacuum at the valve so I guess it is the booster. Anyone know if you can get it out without taking out the master cylinder? I'm hoping to just unbolt the master and lean it forward...
 
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I've never changed the booster on a Mark (but I've done hundreds of other cars)..but looking at it..I'm gonna go out on a limb and say..go get a cherry picker, remove alternator, bolt chains to the lower bolt holes for it...remove bolts for kmember and drop the motor down (you can use a couple of jacks I suppose) then take the master loose from booster..you can bend the lines some, just don't kink them.

If ya want I'll hop on Mitchel1 and copy/paste you a walk thru

1) how did you "check" the valve in the booster?
2) when you say you have no power brakes, you mean your brakes are harder to apply than normal?
3) do you hear a vacuum hiss by your foot when applying the brake?
 
I visually inspected the check valve and pulled it out with the car running, it had a good amount of vacuum and there was minimal change in idle quality. It seems like the power brakes work for the first second or 2 after you step on the pedal then they get very hard, but the pedal stays high so its not a hydraulic problem. and you can hear a hiss down by the pedals when you apply the brakes. I appreciate everyones help. I dont know if Im equipped to drop the motor out the bottom to get to it though, I live in a condo with no garage...might have to find someone to replace it for me.
 
To check that valve, simply blow thru it, you should be able to blow thru one way, and not the other.
The hiss you hear at your foot is because the diaphram is broke. So yes you need a new booster...advise-get a NEW one, not a re-man...I suggest this because the price difference is minimal, and the labor to swap either is the same
You're more than welcome to visit "BAR Auto", and we can get ya fixed up :D
labor time on it is 2.7hrs according my labor guide (which could be wrong)

and to answer your other question, yes a leaking booster can trigger a CEL due to the vacuum loss, I however did not run the code you gave
 
The booster is a PAIN to get to from the inside if I recall. I loosened mine up to get my new engine and trans in. It was one of the worst parts of the project actually.
 
Cool thank you. Im still hoping I can sneak it out the top...Or find someone to do it cheap. I presume Bar Auto is in Waco...That would be a crappy commute with no power brakes :)
 
Unity I dont wanna hear that!! And I sure as hell dont wanna pay someone to change it this time of year, I need all the money I have....and then some.
 
Ive come to the conclusion you guys are right. I need a power booster. Im going to try to tackle it this weekend, and hope I can do it thru the top. I cant afford to pay someone...Wish me luck...
 
Ok, for 1 you don't have to touch the booster to drop the motor and trans, and..

Lay on your back under the steering wheel and disconnect the brake light switch and slide the push rod loose from the brake pedal, remove the 4 nuts around the push rod on the fire wall, divorce master cylinder from booster, you can take the lines off, you probably need to bleed the brakes anyway if you haven't done it in the last year/20k , remove wiper cowl and wiper stuffs and remove booster

when you install the new one, make sure you don't twist that push rod, it's a factory pre-set setting, changing it can greatly effect your brakes in a bad way
 
Wait wait wait. From removing the cowl on my car this looks like a job that should not be that hard where you gotta drop the motor. When you remove the hood and then wipers and then cowl you have excellent access to the booster and it can lift almost straight up and out.
 
OK I changed the booster this weekend. Pulled the cowl and is came right out the top. I would almost say the original booster never worked right in the car, and Ive owned it since Dec 18, 2005. I test drove it after I changed it and almost ate the steering wheel the first time I touched the brakes.I kinda feel dumb because Ive been thinking the car had crappy brakes for years...now they work almost too well. I do appreciate all the help from you guys though. Have a great Christmas everyone.
 
So cool to hear when someone finds the problem and it all works out. Congrats man and Merry Christmas to you as well!
 
OK I changed the booster this weekend. Pulled the cowl and is came right out the top. I would almost say the original booster never worked right in the car, and Ive owned it since Dec 18, 2005. I test drove it after I changed it and almost ate the steering wheel the first time I touched the brakes.I kinda feel dumb because Ive been thinking the car had crappy brakes for years...now they work almost too well. I do appreciate all the help from you guys though. Have a great Christmas everyone.
Changing the booster take away p1506 CE
OK I changed the booster this weekend. Pulled the cowl and is came right out the top. I would almost say the original booster never worked right in the car, and Ive owned it since Dec 18, 2005. I test drove it after I changed it and almost ate the steering wheel the first time I touched the brakes.I kinda feel dumb because Ive been thinking the car had crappy brakes for years...now they work almost too well. I do appreciate all the help from you guys though. Have a great Christmas everyone.
when you changed your brake booster did code p1506 go away ?
 

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