Car is stalling on me

NoLimit95

NoLimit95

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Huntsville, Alabama, United States
I can not figure this out. The car runs perfect until it gets up to temp and then while driving or coming to a stop and at idle, it acts like it wants to stall. I do have a CE light that comes on sometimes but I went to get the 1000 CA battery and now waiting for the Motorcraft alternator to come in.

I have fairly new Bosch 02 sensors in and I think that might be the problem or maybe the MAF but I just cleaned it very good with MAF cleaner before I put it back in a couple of months ago. 02's are about 4 months old. I have changed fuel pumps and fuel filter and it's still doing it and getting worse. I haven't had any codes pulled yet but I'm really leaning towards the 02's just being bad. It acts like it's about to run out of gas and almost stalled out on me at a light but it picked up and took off. I checked the vacuum lines that I could see and all of them seem to be good. Really getting annoying!
 
I haven't had any pulled yet. I went and bought the battery and it was fine going there but 1/2 way back it got started. If it had done it on my way, I would have had them come out and check. I'm just wondering if 02's could be the problem. It got so bad when I got back in the driveway, I didn't want to leave the house again. It might idle good for a few seconds and then just idle funny but it's not a rough idle, it's just lower than it should be but it's not a smooth idle. Hard to explain I guess. When I got back home, the CE light came on and it stayed on. I opened the hood and checked everything I could play with and reach but no change. I have to go pick up the alternator tomorrow so I'll see if they (O'Reilly's) will pull codes. Not sure if they do that or not.

I have a 93 engine in the garage at my disposal for parts lol. I know everything in it is good. If I had help, I would swap the damn things out. I have 183K and the 93 has 113K and ran like a scalded dog. btw, my tranny is on it's last leg also. Just ordered parts from Max for the 98 tranny so all I can do now is wait.
 
I just put one of them on too. This only happens after it gets hot. From cold all the way to mid temp, it's perfect except for the CE light that might appear and might not but the idle and running is good. IAC is new and has been on for maybe 2 or 3 months. Cranks up a around 1100 to 1200 and runs like that for about 10 to 15 seconds and then drops to right at 750.

The Motorcraft alternator just came in and O'Reilly's don't pull codes so I have to go out here and pull this alt off and take it back to them in the truck and swap it for the real deal and come back and put everything in. I thought maybe it was the alternator doing this because of the cold start flicker but now I don't think so. TPS is also right at a year old. Right now I have a brand new battery (850cca/1000ca), hasn't been installed yet and I'm about to go pick up a brand new Motorcraft alternator, not rebuilt and I have a known good MAF that is already cleaned. I'm going to change all of this out today or in the next hour or so and then see what it does. The only other logical reason I can come up with is the junk Bosch 02's I put in. I should have known better. Same day they were installed, I still had a CE light every once in a while but now........pissin me off.
 
LaserSVT said:
Clogged cats.
Click to expand...

That's my 2nd thought. It has no mufflers but still has the 2 high flow and 3rd and res. I have the X here but I have the parts coming in Thursday from Max to get the 98 transmission J-Modded and new front and rear seals for it. I just put the new alternator and battery in and PCV valve and the other MAF box with a fresh clean MAF in. I started it, backed it out of the garage and let it warm up and the bogging started again when it warmed up. I backed out of the driveway and dogged that damn thing out down the street and stomped it all the way back. When I sat in park, it wasn't bogging anymore. So, either 02's or cats, which are coming off anyway.
 
We can throw all these idas out at you, but in the end, I think, it would be easier to have codes pulled and get a really good idea as to what's going on.

Could be clogged cats, could be an intermittently bad coil, could be a bad plug, could be a bad injector, could be a bad CPS, hell, it could even be a plugged up filter.

Codes, man! Codes! :D
 
Frogman said:
We can throw all these idas out at you, but in the end, I think, it would be easier to have codes pulled and get a really good idea as to what's going on.

Could be clogged cats, could be an intermittently bad coil, could be a bad plug, could be a bad injector, could be a bad CPS, hell, it could even be a plugged up filter.

Codes, man! Codes! :D
Click to expand...

I agree Frog, I'm going right now and I do mean right now to get some codes. I just called the Ford parts place down the street from me and new 02's are $100 each. I'm not in the mood for all that right now and if it's a bad injector, I have good ones, I have good coils, plugs all in the 93 engine setting right next to my car. I'll be back in about an hour because I want codes from AZ and Advance. Maybe one of the two will be somewhat right. My next post will be a list of codes, I'm sure.
 
There is a place on ebay that has Bosch O2s for $44 each shipped....... and you're a dumbass for calling any Ford place for parts. ONLY call Max for that stuff. I damn near had a heart attack pricing the complete OEM SRRB kit and it was half that through Max. Same thing with my rear end rebuild kit, computer speedo gear, Trac Lok juice, axle bearings and something else. It was $10 cheaper for all that then just the rebuild kit was from Summit. :D
 
I just called them to see what their price was and then I hung up. Anyway, I go to AZ and they tell me they can't read my car because it's not OBDII. So, he then sells me this little F'd up code reader made by Actron.

Ok, I get this thing plugged in and then I'm supposed to get in the car, turn the key in the "on" position. The CE light flickers 2 times real fast like I'm supposed to get ready, I assume. BTW, no instructions with this POS either. I had to look it up to see how to get this far.

Anyway, the CE light starts it's flashing and I'm trying to write them down and keep up with the flashes. I don't know the sequence or how they need to be written down so here it is lol. This is what I could catch

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 5 7 2 1 4 1 5 7 2 1 4 Now what kind of sense can you make of that?

My dad comes out in the garage trying to tell me that it's my low idle sensor or my high idle sensor???:confused:

I was like, GTF back in the house. Him and these flashing lights and a stalling car and a kid telling me to fix a sandwich for him was about to make me explode.

Oh, one more thing. It was mentioned somewhere to connect this code reader to the ABS sensor or something but I had it connected to the EEC on the drivers side. One big plug and a single ground I guess.
 
LaserSVT said:
There is a place on ebay that has Bosch O2s for $44 each shipped....... and you're a dumbass for calling any Ford place for parts.
Click to expand...

I was a dumb ass for buying Bosch 02's in the first place. I wouldn't give $2 for both if they brought them to the door right now. I'll call Max again in the morning. He has some stuff coming in Thursday already but it looks like he's gonna be sending me some 02's cause I really feel like that's what it is.
 
Ya. Bosch suck. Bad O2 sensors, bad plugs, they suck. I only have Bosch in my car since one went bad and I swapped both out under warranty. Next summer, if I have the dang car, will be swapped out for OEM.
 
There should be a short pause between each flash then a longer pause.

Add the shorter paused flashes up and put them together.

1 pause 1 pause 1 pause 1 long pause 1 long pause. etc.

That would be 41.

I could be totally wrong on this, haven't pulled OBD I (eec-4) codes for ages.
 
If I'm reading these right, I have more codes than Ludacris.

34 EGR Valve Position (EVP)
sensor or Pressure
Feedback EGR (PFE)
sensor: signal voltage out of
Self-Test specification limits,
or,
signal voltage above closed
limit during normal engine run
operation,
or,
signal indicates insufficient
EGR flow.

46 Thermactor Air System
unable to bypass air (vent
to atmosphere).
or,
Distributorless Ignition
System (DIS) or Electronic
Distributorless Ignition
System (EDIS) problems –
primary circuit failure in coil 2.

21 Engine Coolant
Temperature (ECT) sensor
signal voltage: out of range
(Key On Engine Off Self-
Test), not at normal
operating temperature
(Engine Run Self-Test) or
loss of signal (during
normal engine operation).
or,
Electronic Distributorless
Ignition System (EDIS) fault
– problems with Crankshaft
Position Sensor (CPS)
circuit.

57 Neutral Pressure Switch
(NPS) – open circuit failure,
or,
Circuit failed in Neutral
position.
or,
Octane adjust service pin
installed.

41 Exhaust Gas Oxygen
(EGO) sensor: voltage
signal always “lean” (low
value) – does not switch.

63 Throttle Position (TP)
sensor – signal voltage is
too low.

14 The Electronic Control
Assembly (ECA) has
detected an intermittent loss
of Profile Ignition Pick-up
(PIP) signal during recent
operation.

72 Insufficient manifold
vacuum change detected
during Dynamic Response
portion of Engine Run Self-
Test.
or,
Problem with Message
Center Control Assembly
(MCCA) – failure in Data
Communications Link
(DCL).
or,
Power interrupt detected.

15 Failure in Electronic Control
Assembly (ECA) –
problems with Keep Alive
Memory.

and when it starts out, it's with 1slight pause, 1slight pause, 1slight pause and then the same again.
 
you've got either a failed battery or a failed alternator.
Once THAT many codes pop up, it clearly means your car cannot supply the correct "reference" voltage for the sensors.

if the reference voltage is incorrect then the output of the sensor is also skewed.

an alternator that is putting out AC current will also wreak havoc with sensors.

With that said.. TRUSTING EECIV codes is troublesome.
it can be hit or miss with the EEC cars.
 
XLRVIII said:
you've got either a failed battery or a failed alternator.
Once THAT many codes pop up, it clearly means your car cannot supply the correct "reference" voltage for the sensors.

if the reference voltage is incorrect then the output of the sensor is also skewed.

an alternator that is putting out AC current will also wreak havoc with sensors.

With that said.. TRUSTING EECIV codes is troublesome.
it can be hit or miss with the EEC cars.
Click to expand...

Tommy, I just put a brand new Motorcraft alternator in and a brand new 850/1000 battery yesterday. The bogging was happening before and after this.It's neither of those two. Sometimes it will run smooth and then the bog will get started again and at idle, it has only died once. I think it's either one of the 02's or maybe the EGR or the TPS has went bad on it. I have a fairly new TPS that I could swap it with.

I think all that low voltage stuff had something to do with me changing alternators and batteries yesterday but both of them are brand new and before that swap, it still was doing the same thing.
 
Are your lights still flickering? Maybe with all that electrical component swapping you loosened up a ground wire somewhere? Just a thought...
 
nolimit94VIII said:
Tommy, I just put a brand new Motorcraft alternator in and a brand new 850/1000 battery yesterday. The bogging was happening before and after this.It's neither of those two. Sometimes it will run smooth and then the bog will get started again and at idle, it has only died once. I think it's either one of the 02's or maybe the EGR or the TPS has went bad on it. I have a fairly new TPS that I could swap it with.

I think all that low voltage stuff had something to do with me changing alternators and batteries yesterday but both of them are brand new and before that swap, it still was doing the same thing.
Click to expand...

Ok, let me rephrase this.
your new battery and alternator for whatever reason are not supplying the required voltage to insure the proper operation of your vehicle.

you do realize that there are many components that could affect a poor voltage scenario

1. the OEM crappy battery connectors, those band clamps are crap
if you have them on your car, replace them with REAL battery clamps

2. the "power distribution block" has a large guage wire that runs from the battery TO the PDB. if that connection which is very well hidden is corroded it will cause all kinds of goofy crap to occur.

3. just because you dropped a new battery and alternator into the car does not mean you dont have a voltage/charging issue...there are WIRES that connect all these items... all it would take is ONE bad wire to craponyourparade
 
nolimit94VIII said:
I think it's either one of the 02's or maybe the EGR.
Click to expand...


neither of those will cause an intermittant stall.

If the 02 was bad enough to cause a stall, you'd have CEL codes indicating a failed 02 sensor.
If it's bad enough to cause a stall, it wont "fix itself".

EGR has no bearing on a stall issue unless your vacuum diagram is leaking and when the EGR valve is commanded, it bleads out all your vacuum.

try to "open your mind, rather than batting suggestions down with I THREW PARTS AT IT, so that cant be it".
 
nolimit94VIII said:
I think all that low voltage stuff had something to do with me changing alternators and batteries yesterday but both of them are brand new and before that swap, it still was doing the same thing.
Click to expand...

Sorry, if you disconnected the battery then all the codes you have are "NEW" codes... not old ones.

based on all those trouble codes, if you read them and understand them.. how could you feel you dont have a voltage issue?

seriously
 
nolimit94VIII said:
I have fairly new Bosch 02 sensors in and I think that might be the problem
Click to expand...

I totally missed that you put the absolute "do not use" parts on your car.

while they may not be the cause of your problems, I can assure you they will not last..and should be replaced with quality motorcraft 02 sensors.

I know I know I know.. Motorcraft are "expensive"..blah blah blah, but they WORK.

If I were you, I'd get the two primary 02's replaced with Motorcraft.
 
Dacket said:
Are your lights still flickering? Maybe with all that electrical component swapping you loosened up a ground wire somewhere? Just a thought...
Click to expand...

or he had a bad connection to begin with and hasn't discovered it yet
 
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