Can someone please tell me what the correct term is for this bar under my LS? (PIC)

Lincoln LS

  1. scjmc

    scjmc Dedicated LVC Member

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    I replaced mine recently to eliminate noise. The old parts were pretty worn, and my 06 only has 80K on it.
     
  2. CTX-SLPR

    CTX-SLPR Well-Known LVC Member

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    Just to bring new info for this tread and top. Prices have changed and Rock Auto no longer lists the JAL607 (tried just 607 and Deeza; JAL607 with no manufacturer) and ominously Deeza's site is listed as "potentially hacked"
    The MIBearings link still shows the JAL607 but it is now $72.17 a side (Amazon also lists but even more expensive than the OEM version below)
    Tasca Ford lists the 6W4Z-5B551-AA at $101.83 a side

    For that price difference I almost don't think it's worth it to get rid of the passive steering feature with the marginally cheaper deeza part.
     
  3. 1LoudLS

    1LoudLS Dedicated LVC Member

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    honestly, I would pay more just to have the quality of an OEM part over the cheap deeza part even if it also didn't have the passive steering section...
     
  4. LS4me

    LS4me Dedicated LVC Member

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    BINGO!!!! OEM parts have come a long way since the 70's and 80's!
     
  5. 1LoudLS

    1LoudLS Dedicated LVC Member

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    and from just about everything I have seen out there, since there is not a lot of performance aftermarket parts out there (primarily just cheap alternative aftermarket options...), very few parts even come close to the same quality of Motorcraft parts...
     
  6. CTX-SLPR

    CTX-SLPR Well-Known LVC Member

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    I was thinking from the perspective of a person that is ~3 months away from selling the car (moving to DC and reducing down to 1 car) but wants to repair stuff before I put it on the market. Even then I'm considering the Motorcraft part though I doubt a potential buyer is going to be able to tell that I put the Deeza part on there till it needs replacing.
     
  7. cammerfe

    cammerfe Dedicated LVC Member

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    PARTS LIST:

    1. Pair of Heim Joints
    2. Appropriate lengths of internally-threaded tubing
    3. Threaded rod as necessary to reproduce other end of links
    4. Poly bushings for 'straight' ends
    5. Lock nuts and washers as necessary

    Tools:

    1. Wrenches as necessary to fit nuts
    2. Hack saw or chop saw
    3. Vise

    End result:

    New toe links of superior quality for +/- $50 per pair:D:cool:
    (Add $20 for stainless materials)

    KS
     
  8. CTX-SLPR

    CTX-SLPR Well-Known LVC Member

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    If I was keeping the car... I'd be doing something like this, though I'd be welding in the passive steer section into the middle and using an encapsulated heim like a Jonnie Joint instead of a regular heim.

    Probably going to order up a set of the motorcraft pieces with new bolts this month to install over the 4th of July weekend.
     
  9. mtggtmmtg

    mtggtmmtg Active LVC Member

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    If you would of noticed when they first started to crack, then the dust boots could of easily been replaced. At the stage yours are in they have already allowed dirt and moisture into the joint and should be replaced. When I noticed the first crack I replaced mine with the accordion style boot(see pic) that I had saved from my 01 taurus sway bar link, but I have see many sites that sell the dust boots separately(They list them as tie rod/ball joint dust boot/cover) and come in many sizes and styles.View attachment 828467911
     
  10. lincoln_zero

    lincoln_zero Dedicated LVC Member

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    hahaha oh man if pictures had 'phrasing'... What you drew there looks soo much like a.. 8=====D hahaha
     

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