Can someone please tell me what the correct term is for this bar under my LS? (PIC)

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MichiganLS

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Sorry, but i would like the correct term for this bar so i can find the bushing to replace it since its cracked out and squeaky.

2001 lincoln ls

Thanks.

Photo (1).jpg

Photo (1).jpg
 
That looks like the rear lateral arm. I just replaced mine last month, ordered them from TascaParts.com. You'll need an alignment after.
 
joegr said:
Exactly, and the whole toe link needs to be replaced (both should be).
Click to expand...

So you're trying to say that i need to replace my whole "rear toe link" but the only thing that seems to be the problem is the rubber bushing that i have circled. can someone send me a link to where i can buy the rubber bushings. thanks.
 
MaddShadez said:
That looks like the rear lateral arm. I just replaced mine last month, ordered them from TascaParts.com. You'll need an alignment after.
Click to expand...

He should not need an alignment if its done right. Don't make it harder than it is.
 
Robot said:
He should not need an alignment if its done right. Don't make it harder than it is.
Click to expand...

He won't need an alignment only if he does an alignment himself. That part adjusts to determine which way each rear wheel points.
 
MichiganLS said:
So you're trying to say that i need to replace my whole "rear toe link" but the only thing that seems to be the problem is the rubber bushing that i have circled. can someone send me a link to where i can buy the rubber bushings. thanks.
Click to expand...

The boots are not available separately.
 
well then, he can either figure out that the piece comes as a whole and he can just get it fixed. or he can mess around some more looking for just the boot and then not get it fixed...




long story short, the rubber boot being torn isn't really your problem, the boot protects the joint inside of the boot, once it gets torn, it lets all sorts of sh!t in there that destroys the joint (which is what and why its squeaking)

also what you don't see there is what's inside of the expanded section that allows some amount of movement, which is also probably in need of replacement. and since this is a wearable item, with how old that car is, the other side is either just as bed or about to fail as well so you should replace them both at the same time...

and yes, as that is a part of the wheels angle adjustment, the car does need to be aligned after being replaced.
 

Alternative cost effective solution = Jaguar's version (JA-L607) of the Toe adjust end linkages.

JA-L607.jpg

You'll lose the passive steering on it vs. going with the more expensive FORD OEM linkages.


Stabilizer Link JA-L607 XR825750 6W4Z5B551AA 101-6784
http://mibearings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=84502#axzz2ziELBkwR




$64.05 each, you really should change out both units at the same time.

Products
------------------------------------------------------
2 x Stabilizer Link JA-L607 XR825750 6W4Z5B551AA 101-6784 (JA-L607)
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $128.10






GLWR​

JA-L607.jpg
 
Am I correct that the cheap versions like http://www.ebay.com/itm/170683939508?item=170683939508&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
Those do not have the passive steering? This is a feature I want to eliminate.


BigRigLS said:

Alternative cost effective solution = Jaguar's version (JA-L607) of the Toe adjust end linkages.

View attachment 828467087

You'll lose the passive steering on it vs. going with the more expensive FORD OEM linkages.


Stabilizer Link JA-L607 XR825750 6W4Z5B551AA 101-6784
http://mibearings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=84502#axzz2ziELBkwR




$64.05 each, you really should change out both units at the same time.

Products
------------------------------------------------------
2 x Stabilizer Link JA-L607 XR825750 6W4Z5B551AA 101-6784 (JA-L607)
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $128.10






GLWR​
Click to expand...
 
Robot said:
Passive Steering? What is that?
Click to expand...

From the web...

Passive rear wheel steering

Many modern vehicles have passive rear steering. On many vehicles, when cornering, the rear wheels tend to steer slightly to the outside of a turn, which can reduce stability. The passive steering system uses the lateral forces generated in a turn (through suspension geometry) and the bushings to correct this tendency and steer the wheels slightly to the inside of the corner. This improves the stability of the car, through the turn. This effect is called compliance understeer and it, or its opposite, is present on all suspensions. Typical methods of achieving compliance understeer are to use a Watt's Link on a live rear axle, or the use of toe control bushings on a twist beam suspension. On an independent rear suspension it is normally achieved by changing the rates of the rubber bushings in the suspension. Some suspensions typically have compliance oversteer due to geometry, such as Hotchkiss live axles or a semi-trailing arm IRS, but may be mitigated by revisions to the pivot points of the leaf spring or trailing arm.

Passive rear wheel steering is not a new concept, as it has been in use for many years, although not always recognised as such.

In the case of the LS, the center section of the toe-links take care of this. The toe links determine which way the rear wheels point, and this is why an alignment (four-wheel alignment) is required when you change them. Each has to be adjusted to the correct length to point the wheel correctly, just like you have to do an alignment when you replace the front tie-rods.

Exactly how do you "do it right" such that you don't have to do an alignment?
 
Robot said:
Passive Steering? What is that?
Click to expand...

The LS has passive 4-wheel steering. The engineers found out by accident ( I don't remember the whole story) that a collapsable bushing in the rear toe link will cause the rear wheels to toe slightly and help the car rotate much better in a turn. Ever notice how the car seems to rotate around corners and not push? Remove the link and the rear wheel has about an inch of play. It's quite disconcerting the first time!

Why anyone would want to remove this fantastic handling feature is beyond me!!
 
joegr said:
Exactly how do you "do it right" such that you don't have to do an alignment?
Click to expand...

Lay the old ones next to the new ones and make them the exact same length. Some people trust this, other don't. It's usually a "good enough" as opposed to "is this good enough..." mentality.
 
BigRigLS said:

Alternative cost effective solution = Jaguar's version (JA-L607) of the Toe adjust end linkages.

View attachment 828467087

You'll lose the passive steering on it vs. going with the more expensive FORD OEM linkages.


Stabilizer Link JA-L607 XR825750 6W4Z5B551AA 101-6784
http://mibearings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=84502#axzz2ziELBkwR




$64.05 each, you really should change out both units at the same time.

Products
------------------------------------------------------
2 x Stabilizer Link JA-L607 XR825750 6W4Z5B551AA 101-6784 (JA-L607)
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $128.10






GLWR​
Click to expand...


This is what you need. I bought them and haven't had any issues. They are cheaper than the OEM and if no one told you that you lost passive four wheel steering by going to this part then you wouldn't notice. Also, buy the Deutsche parts at your own risk, I don't know of a single person on here that has had good experience with them. These deeza parts are even listed at the very bottom if you use the rockauto.com breakdown for the LS in the suspension tab.
 
alzimme said:
Lay the old ones next to the new ones and make them the exact same length. Some people trust this, other don't. It's usually a "good enough" as opposed to "is this good enough..." mentality.
Click to expand...

I tried this when i replaced mine, but after a week decided to get an alignment anyways and the alignment was way off. I suppose it could be that the alignment was already off before i replaced them, but why take the chance? an $80 alignment is cheaper than the $300 in rear tires that will be unevenly worn.
 


Upstairs Chris said:
... These deeza parts are even listed at the very bottom if you use the rockauto.com breakdown for the LS in the suspension tab.
Click to expand...



JAL607-RockAuto.gif :mad:
RockAuto Parts Catalog

VS.

MIBearings LLC

JAL607.gif :)

http://mibearings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=84502#axzz2ziELBkwR ... SAME PART !!!

​









MaddShadez said:
I tried this when i replaced mine, but after a week decided to get an alignment anyways and the alignment was way off...
Click to expand...


No offense ... but the idea is that one would dial it in as close as possible by means of putting the old/new linkages side-by-side, adjusting it so they both sit centered at bushing hole to mounting end, install & tighten it, lower the car to ground level & retighten THEN drive it to an alignment specialist for a four wheel alignment.

It prevents one from chewing through a set of rears by the time one would arrive at the alignment shop.

Those that just eye-ball it and call it a day, most likely end up shopping for new tires by that weeks end.






Now should one have a red light level laser at ones disposal
OrangeLight.gif
... DIY four wheel alignment :confused: j/k
​

JAL607-RockAuto.gif


JAL607.gif


OrangeLight.gif
 
I used the old ones to see how long to set the new ones.



turns out my old alignment was also pretty far off...
 
BigRigLS said:



No offense ... but the idea is that one would dial it in as close as possible by means of putting the old/new linkages side-by-side, adjusting it so they both sit centered at bushing hole to mounting end, install & tighten it, lower the car to ground level & retighten THEN drive it to an alignment specialist for a four wheel alignment.

It prevents one from chewing through a set of rears by the time one would arrive at the alignment shop.

​
Click to expand...


Yup, thats what i did, but it wasn't good enough. Moral of my story was to make sure you get the alignment. My tires didn't appear to have any issues with the 100 or so miles i put on them, but no sense in taking chances.​
 
BigRigLS said:
















No offense ... but the idea is that one would dial it in as close as possible by means of putting the old/new linkages side-by-side, adjusting it so they both sit centered at bushing hole to mounting end, install & tighten it, lower the car to ground level & retighten THEN drive it to an alignment specialist for a four wheel alignment.

It prevents one from chewing through a set of rears by the time one would arrive at the alignment shop.

Those that just eye-ball it and call it a day, most likely end up shopping for new tires by that weeks end.






Now should one have a red light level laser at ones disposal
View attachment 828467100
... DIY four wheel alignment :confused: j/k
​
Click to expand...

I know it's way cheaper on the site you linked, I just wanted to show it on rockauto to reaffirm compatibility.
 
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