CAI Performance GAIN

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Lincoln Jealous

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What are your ideas of the pros and cons of a CAI? Is it worth the money? Does it improve engine performance? Does it actually make your car lose HP?
Has the CAI messed things up? Has anyone regret the CAI for the LS?



What is better ....

open funnel air filter, or the non opened funnel?
 
Actual HP gained is minimal. You will gain lots of response.

A con I see is I have less fuel millage. Its easier to find yourself with your foot in it. In order to actualy keep stable fuel economy you need to be grandmom in it around, defeats the purpose at least thats what I have come to find thus far.


I dont believe it does any damage to the engine at all. Why would it? Its just minus the box which suppresses noise and allows less air flow.
 
JWerner2 said:
Actual HP gained is minimal. You will gain lots of response.

A con I see is I have less fuel millage. Its easier to find yourself with your foot in it. In order to actualy keep stable fuel economy you need to be grandmom in it around, defeats the purpose at least thats what I have come to find thus far.


I dont believe it does any damage to the engine at all. Why would it? Its just minus the box which suppresses noise and allows less air flow.
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+1

Also sounds real good but is an absolute DOG in hot weather without a heat-shield. Check my gallery for pictures of my KKM.
 
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Do it.

It sounds saweeeeettttttt
 
What most people don't realize is that you are not actually putting a CAI onto your cars. A true CAI will have the filter placed to get the coldest air possible, and from the pictures that I have seen of everybodies cars with CAI's on them you are wrong. A true CAI will have the filter placed low and near the ground and unobstructed so as to get the coldest air possible. What everyone puts on their cars and says is a cold air intake is wrong, it is actually a warm air intake because it is in the engine bay and it is sucking in warm air given off by the engine.
Your stock air box is closer to a cold air intake because it actually doesn't suck in the warm air from the engine bay, but from outside the engine bay. This is a common misconception, and I am surprised that no one has actually brought this up. Even with a heat shield you are still sucking in warm air if you get rid of the stock box.
I know people will give me sh@t about this but I really don't care. The only real way to get that roar you are looking for is to modify the exhaust system in my opinion. Put a high flo cat on your car, and change out the factory exhaust and you will see a real power increase, and your engine will give you the roar you are looking for.
But hey, if you really want your nice luxury lincoln to fit in with the tuner crowd then a cold air intake is right up the alley you are looking for.
 
I was just about to mention its not a true cold air intake. How ever I disagree with the rest.

The stock may be closer if the baffle leading into the filter is left on, thats the only way. It also routs the air in a different way so its more restrictive with the airs flow.

When the baffle is removed that box becomes a OVEN!


Also, my Magnaflows are quite, my intake screams and is way louder than my exhaust system.

Around the middle of July I did the air box mod ( cutting the bottom out ) and switched form my conical to the modded air box connected to my custom tube and the car slugged out compared to the conical big time!


Before that I used the box over the conical without the bottom cut off connected to my custom tube and it was even more of a dog. The problem is heat soak and the initial take off, but regardless its better with the conical style filter on over the box. The response is felt in the entire cabin of he car trust me.


So, I for one have thought about it and I for one have gave it some looking into. One thing to remember, you get the most benefit from the exhaust and the intake when you do both rather than either or.
 
to answer your question - K&N claims a dyno proven improvement of 15.69 HP @ 6000 RPM on the Gen2. about $290....
 
Quik LS said:
to answer your question - K&N claims a dyno proven improvement of 15.69 HP @ 6000 RPM on the Gen2. about $290....
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bummer I'd slow down almost a full second on my gen 2?...
yuk.. I'll pass.
(joking smile)
 
this is my idea, leave the stock tube on the gen 1 and put a cone filter on the end, then to assure no engine bay heat, i place a bigger tube that would fit a little loosely over the filter, so the air would be directed from the cold from the fender area into the filter into the intake, what do you think

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Ok, if you want to do this, and do it right.
you dont want ANY bends in any tubes 4inches from the maf..minimum.

This will give you the best results without corrupting the maf signal.
If you put the cone filter directly on the end of the maf, that will allow air to enter the side of the filter, and will be just like having a 90 degree bend JUST before the maf.

relocate the maf, get minimum 4 inches of straight pipe on each end, then route the pipe outside the engine compartment.

there IS merit to getting cold air to the engine, but you want to make sure you dont cause "other issues" in this quest for cold air.

I hope some of this helps.
 
XLRVIII said:
Ok, if you want to do this, and do it right.
you dont want ANY bends in any tubes 4inches from the maf..minimum.

This will give you the best results without corrupting the maf signal.
If you put the cone filter directly on the end of the maf, that will allow air to enter the side of the filter, and will be just like having a 90 degree bend JUST before the maf.

relocate the maf, get minimum 4 inches of straight pipe on each end, then route the pipe outside the engine compartment.

there IS merit to getting cold air to the engine, but you want to make sure you dont cause "other issues" in this quest for cold air.

I hope some of this helps.
Click to expand...

yes, it helps, i wont be doin this today, but its good to know about the maf, thanks
 
Do a search. People have routed the filter itself to the bumper or fender and people have routed tubes from the bumper into the engine bay.

One person even used his stock box with the bottom cut off and placed it behind the bumper grille.

Your best bet would be to use a tube going from the bumper to the engine bay via the hole in the fender well. That way anything that does get into the tube gets lost in the engine bay rather than go straight to the filter.


Even then its a bunch of mixed emotions, some say the difference isnt even noticeable and some say it is.
 
yea, that makes alot of sense to about the filter too close to the maf sensor, how come alot of people havent noticed any issues, you see alot of intakes with the filter right after the sensor... so it would be stock tube, maf sensor, 4 inch of extension, then cone filter. how does the stock intake box even out the maf sensor, because that filter it right about after the maf too, but i know its not an open unit so that could be the difference rather then the cone with the open sides
 
This will give you the best results without corrupting the maf signal.
If you put the cone filter directly on the end of the maf, that will allow air to enter the side of the filter, and will be just like having a 90 degree bend JUST before the maf.
Click to expand...


I dont understand. You said previously that the box in stock form is the best way to go right?

Well the filter sits horizontally causing the air to bend at a 90 degree angle before entering the MAFS. It also snakes through the baffle that connects the box to the hole in the fender.

BTW, I was just busting your balls cause I never heard anyone so violently oppose a aftermarket intake system:D
 
JWerner2 said:
I dont understand. You said previously that the box in stock form is the best way to go right?

Well the filter sits horizontally causing the air to bend at a 90 degree angle before entering the MAFS. It also snakes through the baffle that connects the box to the hole in the fender.

BTW, I was just busting your balls cause I never heard anyone so violently oppose a aftermarket intake system:D
Click to expand...


haha, i know he despises them! but what is the best, the filter right after the maf sensor, or about 4 inches after the maf sensor?
 
It makes no diference from what I understand.

The MAFS will toss a cel if anything is wrong in the slightest way. To my understanding no one has had this issue. Also in order to properly install the intake there is a few very smal steps o take. The only people reporting problems did not take those steps and fixed the error.

1. Disconect the battery to clear the system of the adjustments made prior to installation. The car somewhat learns how you drive. Leave it disconnected over night for safe sake.

2. Drive at cruising speeds for up to 15 miles for the vehicle to learn the new adjustments.

Now if it is direct flow you are concerned about use a filter like the KKM. It has a reversed like cone in the top of it to provide more surface space and allow more direct flow.
 
Lincoln Jealous said:
this is my idea, leave the stock tube on the gen 1 and put a cone filter on the end, then to assure no engine bay heat, i place a bigger tube that would fit a little loosely over the filter, so the air would be directed from the cold from the fender area into the filter into the intake, what do you think
Click to expand...

Nice illistration.:D
 
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