brakes

[mcafferty]

I have seen some of the other threads but would like to ask this any way.

I need to do brakes on my 2001 ls and wanted to know if anyone had problems with replacing the rotors with slotted and drilled ones. i see that you can get them on ebay for 175 or so for 2 pairs front and back? Does any one know if buying them that cheap is a bad idea? is one brand better then the next? how big a job is doing them? does anyone on here sell them? thanks guys.

 

[Quik LS]

that's were I got mine - CC RotorWorks on e-bay.

I pound the heck out of mine - been over a year and 15 autocross events - now problem, no cracking, .....

 

[ohioLS]

I personally believe slotted only is the way to go if you are a everyday driver. Cross drilled are for cars like QuikLSs car, cross drilled will crack its all in time especially if you live in very harish or up and down tempature states. I live in Ohio and my car does make its way out in the fall and some very little time in the winter but thats enough to warp and crack cross drilled rotors. What I am trying to say is if you have fair weather driver or show car then get them, but if you have a semi-daily to daily driver then I would highly recomened slotted only. I personally have machined my own set of slotted rotors for my LS and they are still in the testing stages and hopefully soon will be offering them to the general public. Good luck!

-Scott-

 

[mcafferty]

I live in MN and we drive the car every day do you think the drilled would crack?

 

[mcafferty]

how hard are they to do?

 

[mcafferty]

are the slotts and drilled diff. for each side? is there a right and left? is the pattern diff. on them? thanks much

 

[ohioLS]

OK, mcafferty yes living in MN and that weather I wouldnt risk it. Slotted rotors arent tough to do you just have to have the right machinery to do them. We persoanlly used a Bridgeport w/ a 24" rotor table and did a lil math and poof they where done. If you have this equipment go to a junkyard and by any rotor and experiment but I recomened you leave this job to the professionals like me. HAHA

-Scott-

 

[Quik LS]

are the slotts and drilled diff. for each side? is there a right and left? is the pattern diff. on them? thanks much

yes - there is a left and right side.

 

[GrayGhost1]

Talking about brakes....I've got a front and rear set of StopTech Big Brake kit for sale if anyone is interested! Retails for $5200....can have it for over half that.

 

[mcafferty]

thanks guys i want to know if they were hard to install not hard to make. do you have to pack barings or anything? thanks, Mac

 

[Quik LS]

not hard to install. the bolts to remove the caliper mountings are a little tough - torqued and hard to reach. the rest is easy.

 

[SurfjaxLS]

Is replacing rotors and pads a DIY job for someone with very little experience in mechanical repair. I just can't find anyone to trust around here. Also, I was thinking Hawk or EBC pads. Any feedback on these brands. Yes I already know about the porterfeild pads, just looking for info on these 2 brands.

 

[Quik LS]

Yes - it is a DIY job. you'll need a $5 tool for the rear caliper tool from autozone.

 

[mcafferty]

do you know what the tool is called so that I do not get into the job and then have to stop and go get one? thanks so much guys...

 

[mcafferty]

will i see much of a diff with just slotted and not drilled rotors? will they cool better, stay cleaner, etc.? thanks

 

[GrayGhost1]

will i see much of a diff with just slotted and not drilled rotors? will they cool better, stay cleaner, etc.? thanks

No you won't. The heat generated from everyday driving won't make a big difference in cooling with the drilled rotors. About the only good thing about the drilled rotors is aesthetics. When I replace my cross drilled/slotted rotors I will just got with slotted. I may look into those cool dimple drilled rotors.

 

[Quik LS]

do you know what the tool is called so that I do not get into the job and then have to stop and go get one? thanks so much guys...

the expensive one :

the cheap one (I have):

it's called a Brake Piston cube 3/8 sq drive.

 

[JohnnyB]

It is a very easy job for a diy-er. Pretty basic disk brake job. I went with
Powerslot rotors (didn't want anything cross-drilled) and EBC greenstuff
pads. It was a nice improvement, but I needed new brakes anyway.
:wrench

 

[mcafferty]

can you just compress the calipers back? will this damage them at all? what does that tool do for the back brakes? thanks one again guys i think i will go with the slotted only. any pads better then the next?

 

[Quik LS]

nope - you can squeeze in the front pistons but the back are 'screwed' in (due to the parking brake) - the tool lines up with notches in the piston head and allows you to turn them in with a racket. if this is the first brake job - they'll be stiff.

yes - their are may differences in pads. I use a performance pad that does not 'fade' with heat, lasts longer and is dustless.