Brakes

n8bachelor

n8bachelor

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Hey all. Car is in the shop for some warranty work (steering rack and control arm bushings) and the dealer calls me up to tell me that the front brakes are "getting thin" and need to be replaced soon. He also tells me that the rotors are "too thin to turn" and should be replaced as well. No what I am wondering is why should I have to replace the rotors? They are not warped (no pulsing while braking) and surely they can stand more than 48k miles of (mainly highway) driving.

My question is should the rotors be replaced or will it be alright to just change the pads? I know it is good to replace the pads if you change the rotors but should it go the other way as well?

Dealer probably didnt look at the rear pads but I will check them to see if they are getting close. Dealer quoted $355 for front only pads & rotors installed. I am thinking I will do the work myself to save a few bucks. I can get lifetime pads with rotors from Autozone for $180 but I have also been looking at these power slot rotors and these ceramic pads from LSK for about $300 for the front set. Guess I'll wait and see if the rears need pads too.

any advise is good,
n8
 
Every time I have changed brakes on any of my vehicle I usually just get new rotors and pads. I had some turned once and they vibrated so bad with the new pads I ended up changing rotors anyways. That's just my personal experience though, and that's not with the LS yet.
 
i put new pads on teh front and my driver side rotor needed to be turned but i refused and just said to install the pads and they work fine now i just have squeaky brake syndrome but i'm not worried about it to much i'll fix it soon enough
 
Motorcraft front rotors for the LS are only around 50 bucks each so why not. the ford rotors are probably closer to 100 or more each.
 
n8bachelor said:
Hey all. Car is in the shop for some warranty work (steering rack and control arm bushings) and the dealer calls me up to tell me that the front brakes are "getting thin" and need to be replaced soon. He also tells me that the rotors are "too thin to turn" and should be replaced as well. No what I am wondering is why should I have to replace the rotors? They are not warped (no pulsing while braking) and surely they can stand more than 48k miles of (mainly highway) driving.

My question is should the rotors be replaced or will it be alright to just change the pads? I know it is good to replace the pads if you change the rotors but should it go the other way as well?

Dealer probably didnt look at the rear pads but I will check them to see if they are getting close. Dealer quoted $355 for front only pads & rotors installed. I am thinking I will do the work myself to save a few bucks. I can get lifetime pads with rotors from Autozone for $180 but I have also been looking at these power slot rotors and these ceramic pads from LSK for about $300 for the front set. Guess I'll wait and see if the rears need pads too.

any advise is good,
n8
Click to expand...
Ask them what the thickness is on the pads (in mm). If they are below specifications or are getting close, it would be a good idea to get them replaced before you do any damages. As for the rotors, ask them what the thickness is (in mm) and what the runout would be. If they are close or below specifications, than I would suggest getting those replaced as well.

Also, just because you don't notice any vibration/pulsation doesn't mean that everything is good to go.......that just means your rotors aren't warped. Another thing: if you're not going to get pads from Ken, I would suggest just getting Motorcraft pads and rotors. You might be paying a little extra, but then you know you aren't going to have problems with squealing brakes. I tried to go cheap on pads once........I'll never do it again.
 
I just did the rear brakes on my Aviator. I went to pull the rotor assy's to have them turned and they looked perfect. So I chucked up a Scothbrite pad in my drill and deglazed them. Installed new pads and bedded them in. They work great. But again, the rotors had no wear and no ridge.

I also used factory pads...which are crazy expensive. But they last quite a while and don't squeak with minimal dust. It was worth it to me.
 
DLS8K said:
Ask them what the thickness is on the pads (in mm). If they are below specifications or are getting close, it would be a good idea to get them replaced before you do any damages. As for the rotors, ask them what the thickness is (in mm) and what the runout would be. If they are close or below specifications, than I would suggest getting those replaced as well.

Also, just because you don't notice any vibration/pulsation doesn't mean that everything is good to go.......that just means your rotors aren't warped. Another thing: if you're not going to get pads from Ken, I would suggest just getting Motorcraft pads and rotors. You might be paying a little extra, but then you know you aren't going to have problems with squealing brakes. I tried to go cheap on pads once........I'll never do it again.
Click to expand...


I'll ask them the thickness of the pads and rotors today when I pick up the car but I doubt they recorded it. It was more likely just a visual observation.
So Motorcraft pads & rotors are good to go. Where would you suggest I get those? I dont believe I found Motocraft on either Autozone or Orielly's websites. I would like to get those pads & rotors from Ken but I am still a little unsure of the ceramic pads. I have never used them before and I really HATE squeaky brakes. I know they are supposed to be cleaner and that is a definate plus, and the rotors do look good (although through my factory wheel not many will notice). Also I wonder what affect it will have on the car to just replace the front pads/rotors with the performance ones from Ken (assuming the rears dont need replacement also). Just thinking out loud here.

thanks again,
n8
 
these ceramic pads are cleaner? does that mean less brake dust? if not, are there pads out there that don't dust and dont squeak?
 
2003v8sport said:
these ceramic pads are cleaner? does that mean less brake dust? if not, are there pads out there that don't dust and dont squeak?
Click to expand...

According to the description:

"With a higher friction coefficient, EBC Greenstuff gives improved braking over most stock and aftermarket pads with up to 60% dust reduction and the complete elimination of brake judder. Special elements built into EBC Greenstuff help the pads to run significantly cooler than cheaper aftermarket pads, resulting in zero rotor vibration.

- Great brake response from cold
- EBC Greenstuff has a high friction co-efficient and gives a strong pedal response from first use of the brake "

They make no mention of squeak.... My assumption is that if breaks are function properly and installed correctly they will not squeak, but I could be mistaken

n8
 
I tried the EBC red pads on my 04. They've been on for about a month now. The braking is better than the stock pads were, but they are creating more dust, and do squeak some.
 
During my last dealer visit they said the same thing. I have a '05 with 38k miles. They said they pads AND rotors need replaced. Again, no vibration or problems. I understand pads but how the hell can rotors go bad that quickly. They said if i only wanted to do the pads i'd have to sign a waiver or something in regards to the rotors. Seems a little fishy to me. I told them i can easily buy my own aftermarket rotors cheaper and install them myself. If $355 is for the pads and rotors i wonder how much just the pads replaced are?
 
joegr said:
I tried the EBC red pads on my 04. They've been on for about a month now. The braking is better than the stock pads were, but they are creating more dust, and do squeak some.
Click to expand...

Hummm I looked on EBC's website at both the green and the red pads and they both claim a reduction in brake dust over the OEM pads as well as improved stopping power.

I'm now wondering if it would be worth my wile to just change out the pads to the EBC variety and leave the existing pads. Still debating the generic pads from Autozone with a lifetime warranty (I never will understand how you can buy something designed to wear out and then take it back when it does and get a free replacement).

n8
 
What I've been told by guys with EBC Reds is that they dust about as much as stock; EBC Greens are almost dustless. Porterfield R4-S pads are pretty much dustless, as well, but, from what I've been told, the EBC Greens have a better cold bite. I loved the Porterfields I had on my '04; they had incredible stopping ability when they warmed up, but the stock pads had better cold bite.

EBC Greens are probably going to be the next pads I install on my '06.
 
SoonerLS said:
What I've been told by guys with EBC Reds is that they dust about as much as stock; EBC Greens are almost dustless. Porterfield R4-S pads are pretty much dustless, as well, but, from what I've been told, the EBC Greens have a better cold bite. I loved the Porterfields I had on my '04; they had incredible stopping ability when they warmed up, but the stock pads had better cold bite.

EBC Greens are probably going to be the next pads I install on my '06.
Click to expand...
I guess EBC's website is mis-leading then on the Greens and Reds. It says on their website that the Reds are preferred over the Greens. Here is the link to their website:

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Automotive.html
 
GrayGhost1 said:
I guess EBC's website is mis-leading then on the Greens and Reds. It says on their website that the Reds are preferred over the Greens. Here is the link to their website:

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Automotive.html
Click to expand...

This is indeed a puzzle. The website says that the greens have a nominal friction coefficient of 0.55 and the reds have 0.5 which would indicate that the greens are a better stopping pad (provided both have the same area). Also, according to the site "For heavier faster cars and vehicles above 200bhp we strongly recommend Redstuff which DOES offer much less dust." This seems contradictory to me since the softer (red) pads would need to dust more to provide the same reduction in energy (stopping power). Also according to the comments here the reds do in fact dust more than stock.... strange.

It would seem that the greens are the way to go for our application.... contrary to what the site says. I will likely buy them to replace my stock pads.... now I just need to decide weather or not to keep the stock rotors or upgrade to the PowerSlot.

Does anyone know the acceptable minimum thickness of the stock rotors?

thanks,
n8
 
I don't know about what EBC says, only what I've been told about them by people I trust (FWIW, I'm pretty sure you trust their opinions, too, Ken--they're guys we both know). The only aftermarket pads I've used on an LS were the Porterfields, so I can't tell you from experience which ones do what.
 
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