Brake Rotor Replacement...

I'd be weary of cheapo Asian brakes- they may be easily prone to wapring. Just remember to break them in properly and also to properly torque your lugnuts to 90-100 ft./lbs.

I just bought KVR drilled rotors myself. They'll be going in on Saturday...
 
I emailed that company and asked them where they are made, and I think they said they are made in Canada and they drill them themselves.
 
I wonder how many guys would be interested in cryo-tempered rotors? We might be doing these by next week if there is enough demand. Will totally cure the warping issue, extend the life of the rotor by at least 3 times and allow you to run harder compounds on the pads to increase stopping power and fade out.

Might put up a sticky about it.

I have not liked what I have read on all the slotted stuff and the stress risers drilling puts into a rotor.
 
I recently installed the R1 cross drilled/slotted gold anodized rotors and they stop on the dime! Just remember to get decent brake pads to go along with them and break them in properly. The only I didn't like was the coating came off on them on the ride home and stained my 10 spokes...
 
I'm on my way to Texas in a few hours to pick up a cryogenic machine, computer controlled from 550F down to -300F.

I would appreciate any and all input about success/failure of rotors you have had. Mileage, etc.

Also, if you have a weight comparison of your stock rotors vs replacement rotor you bought, that would be great.

List make of vehicle and replacement brand of rotor.

We will be tempering both the rotors and the pads and will sell them as a set.

More info to follow.

Thanks in advance for any input you guys can give.
 
I got mine from the same place , I think it in L.A. here in Ca.

Great deal, work fine ..... yet it hasnt been even 6 months yet.

I found them on ebay but called them insted. quick shipping also

I dont think they weight much less than the stock ones.

Word to the wise find a good tool for the rears.... not that cheep box , I ended using chanle locks and having my son push as I turned.

I only got ceramic breaks for the front , napa did have them for the rear.
 
Go to discbrakesrus.com you won't be disappointed, I had mine for a year now. I love em !!!!! You can get the rotors & calipers powder coated there too . I got the cross drilled & slotted rotors & 2 piston calipers on all 4 corners.
 
Spending some bucks eh?




I'll have a forged crankshaft and some connecting rods pretty soon. The machine gonna be big enough for those?
 
94m5 said:
Spending some bucks eh?




I'll have a forged crankshaft and some connecting rods pretty soon. The machine gonna be big enough for those?
Click to expand...
Up to 48" long. Enough for a V-16 if ya got one.
 
MonsterMark said:
I'm on my way to Texas in a few hours to pick up a cryogenic machine, computer controlled from 550F down to -300F.

I would appreciate any and all input about success/failure of rotors you have had. Mileage, etc.

Also, if you have a weight comparison of your stock rotors vs replacement rotor you bought, that would be great.

List make of vehicle and replacement brand of rotor.

We will be tempering both the rotors and the pads and will sell them as a set.

More info to follow.

Thanks in advance for any input you guys can give.
Click to expand...



awesome...........
cryo rocks,

any idea of cost for rotors?

mike
 
Moes8 said:
any idea of cost for rotors?
Click to expand...
First, if the computer controlled machine works as we desire it to, we'll buy it. Second, we'll work up a complete part list. Pricing really depends on quantity of parts. If we can stuff a fair amount in for each pass, the price is lower. That type of thing. I'll let you know what's up on Friday.
 
JC1994 said:
Whats the best way to break them in? I think I still remember but I would like to hear how everyone else does it.
Click to expand...
The proper procedure for 'seasoning' NEW rotors is to take the car up to about 25 MPH then slow down gently to about 5 MPH. Do this 4 or 5 times then park the car for a two or three hours until the rotors are back to ambient temperature completely.


The reason for doing this is that it helps to align the molecules in the steel making the rotors stronger and less prone to warping. This is very important as it helps prevent warping your rotors.

Note, if you're doing front and rear rotors, install and season the fronts first, then install and season the rears. Go up another 10 MPH for the rears as they don't get the braking force that the fronts get. Other than that, the procedure is the same.

Be advised that you don't have to do this when you replace the pads or even when you turn the discs, only when you put new rotors on the car. Also, if you put on new rotors, you should use new pads as well.




From the tech articles section
 
Picked up the unit. :dancefool Got to get her installed. Then hook up the gas and we're good to go. Hope to have some info by Monday. Have to go to sleep now. 35 hour drive. Zzzzzzzzzzzz:sleep:
 
GMAN said:
I upgraded to a 13" Slotted brake set that has two pistons from Stainless Steel Brakes. Theses set me back $850.00. I think they are well worth the money. These are alumunum constructed and 38mm piston size.
Click to expand...
I won't need that much in brakes, I don't road race my Mark 8, got the mustang for that, thanks for the link though...
 
bryan only us old folks are supposed to drive like that. will be sending some things up when you get up and running. just wondering are you going to heat the parts up before dropping them down . jd an old welder.
 
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