Brake Caliper Issue

Kstills

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Messages
546
Reaction score
0
Location
New Britain
Not a Mark VIII problem, but it could be. :)

I have a 2002 Mustang, and one of the pistons on the front caliper appears to be sticking (based on the wear pattern of the pad). Is there a way to free up the pistons, or is time to replace the caliper itself?

I haven't done much with brakes besides changing out the pads, looks like it's time to learn a new skill. :)
 
Don't replace the caliper! Just rebuild it, it's easy. As long as the caliper body is fine...

If you have phenolic pistons you need to replace those, then get a caliper rebuild kit, comes with the dust boot and the square cut seals, blow out the pistons, clean the bores with light grit sand paper ( I use the back side of the kind that comes on a roll soaked in brake fluid) then rinse out the caliper with water, blow completely dry, insert square seal, slide dust boot over piston and using assembly fluid--slide pistons into bore, seat the dust boot

when you blow the pistons out..wad a rag up inside where the pads fit and face it down on the table/ground so it doesn't shoot out
 
wow! first check the caliper slide pins, if they are stuck thats why you have uneven wear, then check if the pads slide freely in the arbor then if all that is ok start looking into a caliper. if you have to change it the best method i found is: crack the banjo bolt then lightly snug it, remove the old caliper from the car and support it (still attached to the hose) change pads and install new caliper. remove hose from the old caliper and install on new, minimal fluid loss, minimal bleed time
 
wow! first check the caliper slide pins, if they are stuck thats why you have uneven wear, then check if the pads slide freely in the arbor then if all that is ok start looking into a caliper. if you have to change it the best method i found is: crack the banjo bolt then lightly snug it, remove the old caliper from the car and support it (still attached to the hose) change pads and install new caliper. remove hose from the old caliper and install on new, minimal fluid loss, minimal bleed time

The slide pins are fine, they were moving freely. The back brakes on the Stang are notorious (apparently) for having the sliders seize, I've already replaced both sides.

Good instructions on replacement, though. Thanks. :)
 
Don't replace the caliper! Just rebuild it, it's easy. As long as the caliper body is fine...

If you have phenolic pistons you need to replace those, then get a caliper rebuild kit, comes with the dust boot and the square cut seals, blow out the pistons, clean the bores with light grit sand paper ( I use the back side of the kind that comes on a roll soaked in brake fluid) then rinse out the caliper with water, blow completely dry, insert square seal, slide dust boot over piston and using assembly fluid--slide pistons into bore, seat the dust boot

when you blow the pistons out..wad a rag up inside where the pads fit and face it down on the table/ground so it doesn't shoot out

Yeah, Rock Auto has a rebuild kit, but it just has the seals. I'll go back and look again for the pistons, if they have those I might just take a crack at a rebuild instead.

When you say blow out the pistons, what do you mean exactly? I don't have access to compressed air (unless I pull the caliper off and bring it to work), do you mean to hook up an air line to the back?

Nm, I found this on the interwebs:

http://www.installuniversity.com/in...llu_pages/donations/brake_caliper_rebuild.htm

Seems straight forward enough. :)
 
New calipers have warranties..... I personally wouldnt bother with a rebuild, but thats just me.
 
New calipers have warranties..... I personally wouldnt bother with a rebuild, but thats just me.

Cheap calipers are ~40 each.

Rebuild kits are ~5.

Gives me 7 cracks at the rebuild before I'm in negative territory....;)
 
New calipers have warranties..... I personally wouldnt bother with a rebuild, but thats just me.
+2
Cheap calipers are ~40 each.

Rebuild kits are ~5.

Gives me 7 cracks at the rebuild before I'm in negative territory....;)
hopefully you do it right and they work too. im not wishing bad luck upon you but id just rather buy remans instead or risking it
 
+2

hopefully you do it right and they work too. im not wishing bad luck upon you but id just rather buy remans instead or risking it


I'd rather be able to buy the new ones also. :)

Worst thing that happens is I can't rebuild it and I have to buy the reman. Cost me time and an extra 5 bucks. I'm willing to roll the dice on that. :)
 
Dude I work at Just Brakes, I can walk you through any brake, suspension and steering problem.

They are right that a new caliper would be "Best" because of the warranty, but I'm pretty sure I could teach a retarded monkey how to rebuild one

here's my method..(air compressor) (no compressor explained below


1)!!!!!CHECK BLEEDER VALVES!!!!! If they do not open, replace caliper with new or reman

Remove hose from caliper and let drip in a pan, remove lower caliper bolt and swing caliper up and remove from arbor.
Take caliper to a table,drain, and shove a rag against the piston for cushioning), place a rag over the caliper like a blanket ( to catch brake fluid as it sprays out) Place blow nozzle in banjo bolt hole and blow air into caliper,if caliper has muliple pistons...remove boot and seal from first piston that comes out, place that piston back into bore and hold into bore with large channel locks while remove other piston/s
remove boot from caliper piston bore if still in there, there are 3 styles of boots ( soft, soft with retainer ring, hard) this refers to the edge on the boot that connects to the caliper,the other end is always soft, hard boots and soft with retainer ring require a screw driver and a flick of the wrist to remove.
Pick the square cut seal out, then clean the bore with light sandpaper (1000grit) that is moist with the proper brake fluid, rinse in sink and return to table
The style of dust boot determines the method used to replace the piston.
blow caliper dry, (((with clean hands!!)) place the new square-cut seal in it's seat, put assembly fluid or brake fluid on finger and lube the seal and piston (either cleaned stainless piston or NEW phenolic)(phenolic pistons must be replaced)..
Hard Boot replacement
slide dust boot around piston outter edge, wiggle the piston into the bore, use finger tips to pull the piston into the bore. (Never hammer the piston into the bore) use seal install still kit to hammer hard rim dust boot into it's seat..or a wide blade screw driver works if you're careful

soft boot with retainer ring
place boot over lubed piston, pull piston into bore,use small screw driver to push soft edge into caliper boot seat, install retainer ring

soft boot (no retainer ring)

place caliper edge of dust boot into caliper dust boot seat, fold rag into half twice and lay over the edge of caliper where the inner pads outter side touches (thus helps to keep from pinching your fingers) place ring finger and middle finger into piston opening and place piston over boot opening, with blower, blow air into banjo bolt hole (like when removing piston) as you push piston into dust boot the boot will inflate like a ballon, with proper angle of piston, air pressure, and you pushing the piston into boot, it'll blow the boot edge around the piston, then slide piston down into bore
ALWAYS replace the copper gaskets on the banjo bolt, one on both sides of the hose fitting!
Tighten banjo bolt by hand until snug,do not use impacts,remember...it's hollow

add new brake fluid to master cylinder, open bleeder valve until it drips clear brake fluid. Brake Fluid should be flushed every 2 years
 
If you do not have air! You MUST have Brake Hose clamps, and someone to put clamp on!

Do one Wheel at a time, remove brake pads and let caliper hang over a pan, with ALL other brakes still assembled properly, hop in the car and lightly pump the brake pedal, this will use the brake fluid as your piston removing aid.
3 or 4 pumps will get the piston removed, so soon as piston comes out of caliper, place the hose clamp on brake hose, rebuild caliper, bleed, repeat at next wheel

NOTE: always use Brake Lubrication on hardware, caliper guide pins, tips of pads that touch the arbor...do not use hardware lubricant on the internals of the caliper
 
Be careful pinching the hoses too, you can sometimes collapse the tube inside if they are old hoses.
 
Dude I work at Just Brakes, I can walk you through any brake, suspension and steering problem.

They are right that a new caliper would be "Best" because of the warranty, but I'm pretty sure I could teach a retarded monkey how to rebuild one

here's my method..(air compressor) (no compressor explained below


1)!!!!!CHECK BLEEDER VALVES!!!!! If they do not open, replace caliper with new or reman

Remove hose from caliper and let drip in a pan, remove lower caliper bolt and swing caliper up and remove from arbor.
Take caliper to a table,drain, and shove a rag against the piston for cushioning), place a rag over the caliper like a blanket ( to catch brake fluid as it sprays out) Place blow nozzle in banjo bolt hole and blow air into caliper,if caliper has muliple pistons...remove boot and seal from first piston that comes out, place that piston back into bore and hold into bore with large channel locks while remove other piston/s
remove boot from caliper piston bore if still in there, there are 3 styles of boots ( soft, soft with retainer ring, hard) this refers to the edge on the boot that connects to the caliper,the other end is always soft, hard boots and soft with retainer ring require a screw driver and a flick of the wrist to remove.
Pick the square cut seal out, then clean the bore with light sandpaper (1000grit) that is moist with the proper brake fluid, rinse in sink and return to table
The style of dust boot determines the method used to replace the piston.
blow caliper dry, (((with clean hands!!)) place the new square-cut seal in it's seat, put assembly fluid or brake fluid on finger and lube the seal and piston (either cleaned stainless piston or NEW phenolic)(phenolic pistons must be replaced)..
Hard Boot replacement
slide dust boot around piston outter edge, wiggle the piston into the bore, use finger tips to pull the piston into the bore. (Never hammer the piston into the bore) use seal install still kit to hammer hard rim dust boot into it's seat..or a wide blade screw driver works if you're careful

soft boot with retainer ring
place boot over lubed piston, pull piston into bore,use small screw driver to push soft edge into caliper boot seat, install retainer ring

soft boot (no retainer ring)

place caliper edge of dust boot into caliper dust boot seat, fold rag into half twice and lay over the edge of caliper where the inner pads outter side touches (thus helps to keep from pinching your fingers) place ring finger and middle finger into piston opening and place piston over boot opening, with blower, blow air into banjo bolt hole (like when removing piston) as you push piston into dust boot the boot will inflate like a ballon, with proper angle of piston, air pressure, and you pushing the piston into boot, it'll blow the boot edge around the piston, then slide piston down into bore
ALWAYS replace the copper gaskets on the banjo bolt, one on both sides of the hose fitting!
Tighten banjo bolt by hand until snug,do not use impacts,remember...it's hollow

add new brake fluid to master cylinder, open bleeder valve until it drips clear brake fluid. Brake Fluid should be flushed every 2 years


Sweet!


You should write this up with a few pics and post it in the technical section. Well done. :)

And I'm at least as capable as a retarded monkey......;)
 
don't replace the caliper! Just rebuild it, it's easy. As long as the caliper body is fine...

If you have phenolic pistons you need to replace those, then get a caliper rebuild kit, comes with the dust boot and the square cut seals, blow out the pistons, clean the bores with light grit sand paper ( i use the back side of the kind that comes on a roll soaked in brake fluid) then rinse out the caliper with water, blow completely dry, insert square seal, slide dust boot over piston and using assembly fluid--slide pistons into bore, seat the dust boot

when you blow the pistons out..wad a rag up inside where the pads fit and face it down on the table/ground so it doesn't shoot out

+1
 
I also like to assemble the brakes without the pads first, so I can check the movement of the caliber guide pin hardward, then just remove bottom caliper bolt, flip caliper up, load pads, slap caliper down, replace bolt, spin rotor to check for hardward dragging or out of place backing plate, lube joints while I'm in there and replace wheel

Mustang wheel torque spec is 100ft lbs, same as a Markviii
 
Be careful pinching the hoses too, you can sometimes collapse the tube inside if they are old hoses.

Captain Obvious says " just replace old hoses"
please do...these are the parts that keep your face off the windshield

and if you plan on doing the rear calipers, they are a bit more involved, but not too terrible, certain postions for the piston and special tools that could save your knuckles and tons of time...let me know if you need a feeding

the website you posted Kstills has a nice write up with pics, his method differs from my personal but only slightly , I don't use a punch to drive the extra piston out nor do I use wooden blocks ...and he can do his " in about an hour" I can rebuild all 4 calipers in less than 5 minutes
 
Do the rear pistons need to be rotated while being pressed in due to the e-brake?
 
Captain Obvious says " just replace old hoses"
please do...these are the parts that keep your face off the windshield

and if you plan on doing the rear calipers, they are a bit more involved, but not too terrible, certain postions for the piston and special tools that could save your knuckles and tons of time...let me know if you need a feeding

the website you posted Kstills has a nice write up with pics, his method differs from my personal but only slightly , I don't use a punch to drive the extra piston out nor do I use wooden blocks ...and he can do his " in about an hour" I can rebuild all 4 calipers in less than 5 minutes

:)

I'm guessing I'll be in the 'several hours' category the first time out.

Like you said, these things keep your face off the windshield, so getting the job done quickly won't be a priority. ;)
 
Well we have little races at work when we get bored, I've done the right side brakes of an 05 chev 1500 in 1 min 26 sec
 
Also the actuated piston ( rear caliper piston with e-brake) needs to be turned to where the grooves in the piston top are aligned at 12 and 6 o'clock or your gonna have hell fitting the pads in there, there is a nipple on the pad that must be in that groove or it will not sit flush with the rotor.

Isn't that right LASER!!! LoL
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top