Brake caliper issue. Caliper doesn't retract!

UltimateSVT

UltimateSVT

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Ok guys I need someone to simply point me in the right direction. Seems like I knew the way but it's been 6 years since I last changed my own brakes so maybe I'm doing something wrong...

Last night I heard the rear brakes grinding on my black '97. Immediately stopped the car as soon as I got home. I was only about 8 blocks away.

Today I purchased a set of rear pads, when I took apart the calipers I proceeded to retract them with the "C-clamp" as I used to do with my older vehicles. Ummmm, I know I'm old but am I doing something wrong? That caliper didn't want to retract. I had to install the old pads again just so I can let the car sit for the night. Tomorrow morning I want to finish. Please help me out guys.

NOTE: Only thread I found on a caliper issue was:

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=83788&highlight=decompress+brake+caliper

but it didn't help me much.
 
you have to rotate the rear piston as you push in.
i use something like this.

41gubFcfumL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
Mazda3iBrakeCaliperToolSet006.jpg


Go rent/barrow this from oreilly

Open the bleeder valve and let it drip as you push it in, and hope you didn't destroy the bearing and washers inside it.

Lube those guide pins up real well when you put it back together with brake hardware lube, don't use grease
 
Just goto Vatozone. and borrow the ford calliper tool and twist it in. when i first got my mark i almost ruined my trying to push them in.
 
Sapperfire said:
Mazda3iBrakeCaliperToolSet006.jpg


Go rent/barrow this from oreilly

Open the bleeder valve and let it drip as you push it in, and hope you didn't destroy the bearing and washers inside it.

Lube those guide pins up real well when you put it back together with brake hardware lube, don't use grease
Click to expand...

We don't have an O'Reilly's in South Fl. In fact, no O'Reilly's in a 150 mile radius!

Trippen Out said:
Just goto Vatozone. and borrow the ford calliper tool and twist it in. when i first got my mark i almost ruined my trying to push them in.
Click to expand...

I hope Autozone in Miami let's me borrow it, otherwise I'll have to purchase it which more than likely I will do so I have it stored for every time I want to do my brakes.


Ironically when I had the drilled/slotted rotors & brake pads installed on my '93 NOW I remember my mechanic told me those pads have to be twisted while pushing them in. I had completely forgotten about that. Go figure.

THANKS A BILLION GUYS!
 
UltimateSVT said:
We don't have an O'Reilly's in South Fl. In fact, no O'Reilly's in a 150 mile radius!



I hope Autozone in Miami let's me borrow it, otherwise I'll have to purchase it which more than likely I will do so I have it stored for every time I want to do my brakes.


Ironically when I had the drilled/slotted rotors & brake pads installed on my '93 NOW I remember my mechanic told me those pads have to be twisted while pushing them in. I had completely forgotten about that. Go figure.



THANKS A BILLION GUYS!
Click to expand...

Autozone has it in their loan a tool program. and so does advancedauto either way you shouldnt have to buy it.
 
I bought the tool from Harbor Freight for $30. I've used it at least 30 times. Very useful tool to have.
 
spanner

One night I was doing rear brakes on my 95 and I learned about turning the piston in to reset it. Found some pipe and made a spanner wrench. Crude, but got the job done.

BK SPANNER.jpg
 
Last edited:
Shouldn't you also take the cap off the master to allow the fluid room to go backwards. I like the opening the bleeder screw too. Learn new stuff on here all the time.
 
master? no.
bleeder screw? yes.
you don't want that old fluid getting anywhere near the master or abs block.
 
Castle

I am the KING of my castle Got the job done the same night. Adapt and conquer and learn how to spell.:D:D:D
 
Well, talk about bad luck. I "rented" the tool from Autozone. Basically you buy the damn thing then just return it with the receipt. That's pretty much how the guy explained it.

Anyway, I did exactly what I needed to do. Compressed the caliper piston, place the new pads.... wtf.... why won't it budge?!?!? Mmmf!!! C'mon..., wait, what's this? Oh NOOOOO!!!

One of the accordion-like nuts that holds the 2 caliper screws in place is frozen solid. It won't retract. I remember when they did the brakes on my '93, the same thing happened & they had to torch it for it to come loose. I hammered it, yanked it, hit it, cursed at it, etc... I had to re-install my old pads on the car. I was beyond pissed. I had to reverse everything because I needed to move the car out of the way due to another project I'm doing. So that being said...
I'm no better tonight than I was last night. Still on the same boat. Now I either get a set of caliper housings or whatever you'd like to call them or take it to my mechanic & have him do my brakes!:mad:
 
The "accordion nuts" as you call them are the Caliper Guide Pins, remove the "caliper housing" aka Anchor Bracket from the car, clamp it in a vise and heat the area where the pins are inside the bracket. You can tug those rubber boots off-replace them-because that's why the pins are seized.
Take your vise grips and lock on to the pin and apply pressure (try to rotate it) as your heating it... don't be skeered, get that sucker HOT. Once you can twist it fairly easy use a chisel and punch it out. You can get a new set of pins, may be listed as caliper hardware. I suggest using a drill with a wire bore brush and clean the pins bores out real good.
You can soak it down with PB Blaster before you heat it up.. and use some while cleaning the bores out. Make sure to use Hardware lube in the bores and on pins and pad seats on the bracket when you reassemble

Maybe one day I'll get bored and make a write-up for our brake system

Note: those pins go into the bracket about 2 inches.
 
UltimateSVT said:
One of the accordion-like nuts that holds the 2 caliper screws in place is frozen solid.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing your talking about the slide pins, and they are ceased in the caliper cage.. No big deal either A. Grab it with a pair of vice grips and twist it to break it lose or B. Heat the cage around where the slide pin is and then wiggle it out and the buy some new slide pins and rubbers(accordion looking thing) and lube the sh#t out of them:D reinstall all break parts and you should be fine.

I would check all your slide pins to be in the safe side but that's just me.
 
Well, due to the holidays I haven't touched the car. It's just sitting in my back yard. I also have another project I'm working on. I got a SUPER NICE 98 F-150 with a blown motor for $500. Had the motor rebuilt & right before Christmas I painted the front bumper & the hood which were in crappy shape. Tomorrow I'm polishing the headlights & popping a forsale sign on it. The truck is a solid 8 out of 10. It has original burgundy/prairie tan exterior with tan interior. Simple project & it sells fast down here. Everyone wants a work truck in Miami. I'll be working on my black '97 after New years.
 
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