Bleeding cooling system

Larry85326

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OK I know I'm a little slow, but I'm bleeding cooling system and first jack up the car in the back. This is the first question. How high does it need to be.? And second question is. I open bleeder and let it drain. For how long does it need to drain? Third is. How many times so I do this? Forth is I do understand the hot spots in the motor. But if everything is done as above wouldn't there be hot spots still? Last one I think. This is a closed system if I need to add coolent while bleeding do I just dump it in or shut car off to do this? I'm doing all this now so I hope someone can help thank uou
 
As far as raising the rear its optional but many believe helpful - I would say about a foot should do the trick. Most bleed 1 to 2 times - if you follow the procedure exactly once should do the trick. If you still have problems you should replace all the plastic parts and hoses with Motorcraft (not cheap but will save many headaches)
 
HEADACHES!!!! You can't imagine all those I have. I do have plans to replace all the plastic in this car. I have a line on a Jag with all of things I'll need just waiting for the gentleman to part ways with it. I let car run heat on for close to an hour with just bleeder open and it flowed out strong and steady
 
let car run heat on for close to an hour with just bleeder open and it flowed out strong and steady

You are supposed to close the bleeder when the coolant comes out in a steady flow. Now you might be low.

The bleeder is for air burp only.

have a line on a Jag with all of things I'll need just waiting for the gentleman to part ways with it.

If they are used parts... then probably not worth your time and effort. The only good part to get would be the aluminum filler neck.
 
Really only the filler neck? Everything to with cooling on his car is only 3 months old and your saying it best to pass on it ? DANG I was hoping for better news but I guess thank you gentleman for all advice and xomments
 
I guess they have less then that. He installed them and about 2 weeks went by and he parked the car. So if I had to guess these parts are about closer to new then used.
If I get this car and all I can use is the cooling system parts , is $300 to much for all of it , the complete car super charger and everything. And it still runs and kinda drives.
 
Supercharger??? What model Jag are you talking about? Which engine does it have?
The S-Type came in an "R" version that was supercharged from 2002 to 2009 (internet says 2002, but I was thinking 2003).
 
I am aware of that, but was thinking that some of the cooling system parts might be incompatible on the 4.2, if they were routed differently cause of the supercharger.

Didn't want to assume.
 
I am aware of that, but was thinking that some of the cooling system parts might be incompatible on the 4.2, if they were routed differently cause of the supercharger.

Didn't want to assume.
No, I would assume as well that most cooling parts from a supercharged jag will not fit the LS.
 
Well if a good portion of the cooling system parts won't work... then I'd say the Jag isn't worth the price of the cooling system parts at $300... since a full rebuild will cost $1k in parts


However... the brake system of the S-Type R is most likely worth some $$$... which could offset the cost of the cooling system parts of the LS.
 
No, I would assume as well that most cooling parts from a supercharged jag will not fit the LS.
none except the water pump. the 4.0 s-type is almost identical to gen1 ls except it doesn’t have a wacky hydraulic fan

i doubt it’s an str
 
As far as raising the rear its optional but many believe helpful - I would say about a foot should do the trick. Most bleed 1 to 2 times - if you follow the procedure exactly once should do the trick. If you still have problems you should replace all the plastic parts and hoses with Motorcraft (not cheap but will save many headaches)
Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
What does this mean? How much is until no more coolant can be added?
Anybody? Anybody?
 
It means that when the degas bottle stays full while bleeding (after all the air is purged)... the cooling system is full. :)
Okay ...thanks 04 Sport! I think I finally bled this LSE without bringing it to a shop to purge out the air for the first time ever ...my 2001 bleeds like a champ ...but never had luck with my 2002 until today ....yes the aftermarket DCCV ( Heater Valve) took a crap ...go figure right? Lol anyway I think it may have been an error on my side all along ...I would fill the coolant through the fill cap instead of first filling the degas bottle ...actually yesterday I filled the engine fill first and the Degas bottle second yesterday ...car over heated and then temp stayed at 205-210 while driving ...I knew I had air in it ...after re-reading the procedure for the hundredth tim ed It hit me over the head like a brick ...it actually says fill degas bottle first so that the system equalizes and after draining the system this morning and following the procedure step by step ...the temp is at 190- 195 driving
 
I fill through the t-stat housing (letting it backfill the radiator)... then top off the degas. (slightly overfill it).

I also fill with the DATC set on 90 degrees (engine off) that way the DCCV is wide open.

Keep in mind I have a Gen 2.
 
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I fill through the t-stat housing (letting it backfill the radiator)... then top off the degas. (slightly overfill it).

I also fill with the DATC set on 90 degrees (engine off) that way the DCCV is wide open.

Keep in mind I have a Gen 2.
Never mind ...after taking my daughter trick and treating it's back up to 205-210 off to the shop I go
 
Yeah Dutch. It's been pretty well documented on here that the LS runs on the warm side of normal.

At least the V8 anyway.
I just saw a thread on this ...I forgot the Thermostat doesn't fully open until 219...I should be good
 

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