best oil weight, brand , and filter

Mobil 1 5w-30 is now a mostly group 3 synthetic with a little bit of group 4 (PAO). It used to be mostly PAO a few years ago. Amsoil is all group 4 with a little bit of group 5. Mobil 1 0w-40 is still mostly PAO group 4 and is the best off the shelf Mobil 1 you can get besides their 10w-30 high mileage which is also mostly group 4.
 
does anybody have any thoughts and suggetions on using castrol 10w-30 full synthetic in a 93' mk8 with 150000 mi. ? i thnkk i might switch to this oil
 
If you want to use a 10w-30 use the new Mobil 1 10w-30 HM or Amsoil ATM 10w-30.
 
I have experience with oil, I do used oil analysis on all my cars so I know what works and what doesn't. Any new SM rated conventional oil works fine but for the best possible protection Amsoil is the best.
 
I use Castrol 10w30 synthetic blend with a Pure One (the pretty blue one) filter on my 207,000 mile engine. It really likes the blend and I don't ever have to add a quart between 4k-5K changes.
 
I think whatever you use is fine as long as it is the CORRECT weight & you change it when you should. Conventional oil is fine, Synthetic is better.
 
I've been using 5W30 weight in both of my Marks. They both have the timing chain rattle at start up, and I live in the north so I like to think the winter number of 5 is best for me. The 5 is also recommended by Ford. I stick with the 30 part of the rating just because I think it's better when the engine is warm.

I've used Castrol in my red Mark (192k miles) since I bought it with 95k miles on it.

I used the Castrol in my green Mark (171k miles) since I bought it with 146k miles, but I changed over to Mobil 1 this summer. I changed to Mobil 1 because I had trouble with my chain tensioners pumping up once, and I thought it might help. I'm not sure if it helped any as the problem went away right before I changed over. It still has the rattle for a couple seconds at startup. I'll keep using the Mobil 1 in it though.

I use the Motorcraft 820S filters.
 
When I got my Mark off an engineer friend it had the blackest oil in it. So I changed it to a recommended standard oil. BIG MISTAKE as it rattled the timing chain something fierce on start ups and smoked out of the engine compartment when I shut it off do to leaking valve covers!

I changed to heavy weight synthetic and it went away for a while. Now I run Mobil 1 and believe it or not I change it when it hits 10,000 miles! Still comes out with a nice color and not black so it makes me wonder how long the oil was in there when I had first got the car :confused:
 
CASTROL 5-30 WITH A BOTTLE OF LUCAS FRAM FITER :bow: dont go by any mileage requirement either change it when it gets dirty looking usually 2,000-2,500 miles
 
When an oil turns black does not mean anything!!! Most conventional oils can go 5000 miles easy these days... get a used oil analysis any other type of visual inspection of oil is bull. BTW, Fram oil filters are junk they use CARDBOARD end caps instead of metal.
 
thank you for the fram advice why would it change colors if it wasnt breaking down :confused: :confused:
 
The color of the oil doesn't mean it's breaking down, it usually mean the detergents in the oil are working. BTW, for 4-6 bucks you can get a Motorcraft oil filter which is much better than any Fram for about the same price.
 
I would not use that in my motor because you don't know how it reacts with the engine oil chemistry, it may do more harm than good.
 
AMSOIL all the way with AMSOIL filters...otherwise for daily driving Mobil 1 is the next best thing. Mobil 1 filters also very good.

Motorcraft filters are good, but they are paper filters, meaning in order to get such high filtering efficiency, they need to cram a ton of media in the case. Same filter as a purolate pure one. The amsoil and mobil 1 filters use synthetic media and filter just as good while providing higher flow rates. But don't get me wrong, there's no better filter than a motorcraft for the price.

Also, IMO I think Lucas oil additive is great stuff. It's basically a very high viscosity oil with a few additives. Helps a lot with cars that burn or leak oil, and also helps to reduce metal-to-metal contact wear at startup. But in a good running low mileage motor I don't think its necessary. One of the only additives I would ever use.
 

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