being told to abandon ride

the1andonlyGR81

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as most of you know, im in a situation,again. dont know if the old motor was bad, sabototaged by the guy who wanted 6,000 for a motor, bad wiring, but i tell you this, ihad my laptop hooked up to the car for an hour and it didnt overheat. from day one it was swallowing a gallon of water every other fillup. people who dont understand love of cars will tell you things like, "its not worth it" or my favorite " youll never get your $$ back", its not about that. i had about 20,000 in mods to my 85 5.0 ragtop, some jerkoff rn a light and my insurance co gave me 2,500 for the car. anyways im on a SEVERLY limited budget and time schedule. id like to tear the motor down or at least the heads, is it easier to remove the whole motor for this or can it be done in car? i was toying with swapping cams as if the heads are off anyways its no big deal,and im offered a little help $$ wise since the holiodays and my birthday and one year anniversary of my accident are coming next month. should i let it sit and build it or just replace head gasket and build another motor i have with same problem i got for 100. i have water shooting out overflow container when i crank it, but it does run smooth strangely. obviosly theresv a problem with water in combustion chamber, but wont know if its gasket or head. cant find cheap motor here, 750 for 100500mile found trying to get someone locally to do the swap cheap, no takers still waiting on elliot to reply.
 
Now that weather has cooled down a bit here my Mark has hit me up with Low Coolant. Made me nervous cause I really don't feel like doing head gaskets at this point in time either.

I did notice antifreeze drops on the rad support so it's looking like the composite radiator is leaking. A lot easier to fix for me luckily and I will still try stop leak before I swap rads anyway :rolleyes:

PS I have a spare engine for mine I plan on building for boost but am not looking forward to the engine swap process :(
 
the swap is the easy part. or at least when i was able to stand.i watched them do it, with the long tubes the motor was out in 3 hrs. in well thats a different animal with all the wiring harness,etc.
 
Me and Sapperfire taking our time can have the motor completly out from under the car in 45 minutes. Reinstall takes a couple hours though to tighten every bolt to spec and hook every vacume and power wire up. But generally 2.5 hours from "ok, lets slap the motor in" till its time to crank it.

For me I would only tear the motor down for a head gasket if you are gonna COMPLETLY tear it down for some forged pistons and rods. Otherwise a used motor is the better option. Once you seperate a Teksid DOHC thats been overheated it will need to have the heads and deck lapped.
 
Me and Sapperfire taking our time can have the motor completly out from under the car in 45 minutes. Reinstall takes a couple hours though to tighten every bolt to spec and hook every vacume and power wire up. But generally 2.5 hours from "ok, lets slap the motor in" till its time to crank it.

For me I would only tear the motor down for a head gasket if you are gonna COMPLETLY tear it down for some forged pistons and rods. Otherwise a used motor is the better option. Once you seperate a Teksid DOHC thats been overheated it will need to have the heads and deck lapped.

yea they took it out from bottom, not the best crew, but the book does say 12hrs r/r. can you believe it.i know about milling heads after over heat. its 425 a pair to rebuild or exchange. i just went used motor and well, you know. mygreat8 thinks my fan switch is bad. i think head gasket was bad to begin with,anyways if i get the extra $ comp cam upgrade, although im hearing differing opinions on cam gear, bolts and washers. the 98 has 12mm which is recommended,and washer. when looking at exploded view of head it only shows gears and chains with a line where bolt should be, anybody know? its worth 380 hp at 5400 or 405 at 6200 if i change springs which is WAY too expensive,and gears which are coming.ive heard stock springs can handle the .475 lift vs the .425 the other comes with.
 
Are you saying you overheated/headgasket issue with stock engine then you got a junkyard engine and now that one is pushing out coolant so now you need a 3rd engine?
 
I'm pretty sure its the plug that the fan plugs into. I don't think anyone could have two engines with bad head gaskets. You had A/C which would indicate a good VLCM. I would put my money on the stupid plug.
 
I'm pretty sure its the plug that the fan plugs into. I don't think anyone could have two engines with bad head gaskets. You had A/C which would indicate a good VLCM. I would put my money on the stupid plug.

i still need head job or motor and someone i can trust to do it. like now. elliot has not calledback, know anybody up here?
 
Sapperfire? :lol:

He went through three motors in a couple months too.

Sounds like my brother. I never understood that; personally, I've never blown an engine - several transmissions and a rear end once, but never an engine! :D
 
Just swap the motor, once youve done it 5 times, it's gets a little easier
 
Just swap the motor, once youve done it 5 times, it's gets a little easier
You see what ya did with that post didnt ya? I cant fuggin believe we have to swap yet ANOTHER motor into one of your Marks. Remember when we swapped mine and you said "You owe me one!" Well you owe me 5! :lol:

Still sucks though. Hope we find one tomorrow. :(
 
Whats happening to these 5 engines?
The first one was because of 15 years of improper maintenance.
Second was because he neglected to check compression before install.
Third was because his wife neglected to check oil after being told "Check the oil every day" as the valve cover gaskets leakd bad. I can take some of that blame.
There is still talk of putting a fourth in that car.

So 4A is his 98. It started making bad noises today and is now dead. Gotta get it here tomorrow but the outlook isnt good. 180k and he beats that car like a red headed step-child.
 
mine was losing water ( 1st motor) discovered head/gasket prob. about a month after i bought it , never got hot or overheated because the "coolant low" came on and i filled it. thermagasket fixed it for 18 months beating like RHSC when headers were installed it , two days later it got hot and well that post is here. second motor, last month at that, was losing a gallon every other fillup called the motor place was supposed to give me 90 days warranty, he blames me so its void,hell be getting a visit when its done.was getting hot only when driven, not at idle. thought it may have been fan as well, that motor still runs, smooth too not rough its just shooting water out resevoir.is it possible to take the heads out and leave motor in the car? im about to go to godfathers car yard and walk him through it myself. he sold the garage so no lift, but we have all the tools and space.
 
Im in the same boat as you. My radiator had a crack which made my engine overheat, and now I have a blown headgasket.

I took it to a DIY guy across the street. He told me that you could replace the head gasket by removing the radiator, disconnecting the transmission, then pushing the engine forward. He said he would then have enough room to work on it. I think hes full of :q though

He then wanted $75 an hour to work on it or he wanted $900 to replace the radiator and put bluedevil headgasket seal in.

That really pissed me off so I took my car back (after paying him $75 for looking at it of coarse) and did the radiator and bluedevil myself. I have to add about 20 qrts coolent every thousand miles or so. I know it needs to be fixed correctly.

Iev seen the front of these engines taken off at the junkyard as well, exposing the timing belts. I dont know its it possible to do anything else.
 
Well yesterday I settled an argument with the guy at Autozone that you cant take the tank off the radiator to fix it in the car. So I got a bottle of the new BARS STOPLEAK with Aluminum put it in and so far so good :rolleyes:
 
Turns out Sapperfires car suffered from three problems. Due to the thermostate housing leaking the car had air trapped and started to overheat. Because it was running a little warmer that caused his weak coils to become intermitant and also a failing IAC to no longer hold idle. Filled and burped the system and replaced the IAC and now shes alive again. Still need new coils and plugs to be proper though.
 
Kinda funny cause I told my younger brother as far as I was concerned I was gonna run my 98' to 300k if possible. Of course he leaked this info to my father who is a buy brand new vehicles whenever a car needs anything more than a simple tune up.

Now that I just did the entire front end and got the alignment yesterday it feels like a new car :steering

Now it has me thinking of building up the spare engine forged and going boost as I am definitely keeping this car for a while :p
 
my thermostat is in, but i gutted the middle, its like a 5/8 hole. ran my mustangs here like that for years no prob. some people like to drill a hole or two in the side for extra flow. the mark never got hot only when it was losing water, thts why my thermostat read good, had no water going over it until i heard valve chatter.
 

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