Battery draining issue

Carl Smith

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I got this 2000 LS V8 a few days ago for$500. It had a no start issue and had sat a year. Turned out only a fuse and fired right up. Now, i'm having an issue with my battery draining. Only takes a few hours after a charge to get weak enough to not start the car. Over night they will be no power at all.

I've read about interior light issues and pulled that fuse to test it out today as the front door panel lights show evidence of a very long and hot past. Three hours later the car still doesnt have enough power to start. This is a 1000 cranking amp battery which has never failed in my old Buick Lesabre. It could sit 2 weeks and fire up every time. The car is very clean and doesn't show any evidence of wiring issues etc. I did read something online about the battery cable having issues and shorting out. Anyone had issues like this before ?

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It's not the lighting, and it's not the battery cable shorting out. The 1000 CCA of your battery has nothing to do with reserve capacity, and it's reserve capacity that you are using up. Please note that if you get this sorted out, then you will need to get the correct, safe battery for this car! The battery has to have a single vent tube connection, and you have to use it.

Unfortunately, you have one of the most difficult problems to diagnose in the LS. It almost requires dealer level tools to be able to talk to each electronic module to find out where the problem might be. The problem is likely that one or more modules isn't going to sleep with the car off. This might be because of a defect with the module, a wiring problem, or an issue with a sensor or actuator. A couple of examples: A bad door latch switch can keep the FEM from sleeping. A bad DCCV might keep the DATC from sleeping... Just pulling fuses and looking for the drain is problematic too, because so many modules interact with each other. Anytime you do anything to the car (open or close a door, remove or reinsert a fuse, you have to wait 20 or 30 minutes for everything to try and sleep again. This includes interrupting battery current by inserting/removing an ammeter.
 
I had no clue on the battery needing to be vented, but makes sense. Thanks for that as I was planning on a new one soon, but wanted to try and figure out this issue 1st. I can get access to a Solus Pro scanner, but not sure it would be of any help with what you describe.
 
My retro TBird's battery kept going dead. Turned out to be a defective A/C Control head.

Good news, they identified the problem.

Bad news, took almost a year to find a new one, get it shipped from Mexico, and installed.

Also, get out the checkbook if this is your problem.
 
Here is the Ford drain check TSB:

TSB
05-22-9 BATTERY DRAIN DIAGNOSIS - SERVICE TIPS

Publication Date: October 25, 2005

FORD: 2002-2005 Thunderbird
LINCOLN: 2000-2006 LS


This article supersedes TSB 02-9-5 to update the vehicle model years.

ISSUE:
Some vehicles may exhibit excessive electrical system current draw which could result in a discharged battery and a no crank condition.

ACTION:
Use the following Service Information to monitor the vehicle electrical system for excessive battery current drain and repair as needed.

SERVICE INFORMATION

Having a firm grasp on the design and normal operation of the electrical system will aid in properly diagnosing and repairing any faults with electrical components and/or circuitry.

When the vehicle is at rest (ignition key turned off and removed), some amounts of battery current drain will be present since many of the modules and electronic components in the vehicle require this to sustain memory and system monitoring. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Anti-lock Brake Module (ABS), Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module (EATC), Front Electronics Module (FEM), Rear Electronics Module (REM), Driver Door Module (DDM), Instrument Cluster Module (ICM), Roof Opening Panel Module, Heated Seat Module, Driver Seat Module, Cell Phone Module and Vehicle Emergency Message System Module all have power supplied at all times for this purpose. Many of these modules monitor activity and communicate with each other through the Standard Corporate Protocol (SCP) Link.

When the ignition key is first shut off and removed, the vehicle is exited and the doors are closed, the electrical system goes into "stand-by" mode, where the REM and the FEM keep the System Switched Power (SSP) relays activated. After a minimum of 45 minutes, the REM and FEM will power down to prevent battery discharge. Power down mode occurs when the REM and FEM "time out" and release the ground on all four (4) of the SSP relays. The SSP relays are wired in a fashion in which they are either all on or all off. In other words, the SSP relays cannot be operated independent of each other. If power down does not occur, because of a system fault or errant SCP Link activity, the REM and FEM will remain energized along with the SSP relays and the other electrical devices that they provide power. The REM and FEM provide power and ground to devices such as exterior/interior lighting and many of the body modules in the vehicle. The Wiring Diagrams Manual may be referenced for additional information on the SSP relays, the REM and FEM, in Sections 13 and 59.

Once the REM and FEM enter power down mode they will not energize the SSP relays until they are commanded to "wake up" by one (1) or more of the following commands:

Key Fob Activity (Any Command)
Door Ajar (Any Door)
Luggage Compartment Ajar Switch
Drivers Power Seat Switch
Power Tilt/Telescopic Steering Column
Headlamps/Park Lamps On
Key In Ignition
Key On Ignition
Anti-Theft Hood Switch
Brake Pedal Position Switch
Memory Seat Switch
BATTERY DRAIN DIAGNOSIS

In order to properly diagnose a battery drain concern, the following procedures must be followed exactly as stated to produce the most accurate results.

Ask the customer how long the vehicle must sit before the battery goes dead. The vehicle is equipped with a 750 amp hour battery from the factory. If the battery is in proper working order, it will be able to withstand a 1 amp draw for 48 hours without dropping the battery voltage below 10.5V. This information may help determine the amount of current drain present. For example, if a vehicle with a fully charged battery will not start after an overnight soak, it can be assumed the battery current drain is greater than 4 amps. This knowledge may aid in diagnosis.
Check for any aftermarket equipment installed in the vehicle. Ask the customer if they removed any aftermarket equipment before bringing vehicle in for service. All aftermarket equipment remaining should be removed before proceeding with this test.
Ask the customer if any electrical component(s) is inoperative or malfunctioning. In many cases a draining battery concern can usually be traced back to a component that has experienced operational trouble.
Using an appropriate scan tool, check all available modules in the vehicle for both on-demand and continuous memory diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Repair any on-demand DTC's before continuing with this article. Record any continuous memory DTCs which may aid in future diagnosis.
Check that the vehicle battery is properly charged and that the charging system is operating correctly. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 414-00.
Install a quick disconnect style Battery Saver/Vehicle Anti-Theft Switch between the negative battery post and cable, such as Littlefuse Part Number ATD 100 BP or Moroso Part Number 74103.
Drive the vehicle for at least 20 minutes over 30 mph (48 km/h) to reach full engine operating temperature and to turn on and activate vehicle systems. Make sure all electrical components operate correctly like the horn, audio system, exterior/interior lighting, climate control, etc.
Open the Left Front and Right Front door and engage the latches so the vehicle interior can be accessed without disturbing the modules during this test.
Lift the hood and compress the Anti-Theft Hood Switch with a clamp (if equipped).
Open the trunk lid and unplug the electrical connection to the Luggage Compartment Lamp. Lift and secure the trunk floor panel hook to the trunk opening pinch weld. The battery and the Rear Power Distribution Box are now easily accessible.
NOTE: DO NOT ALLOW BATTERY POWER TO BE DISCONNECTED FROM THE VEHICLE AT ANY TIME DURING THIS TEST. IF BATTERY DISCONNECT OCCURS, THE ENTIRE TEST MUST BE PERFORMED AGAIN STARTING AT STEP 5.



Use a Multimeter (DVOM) with a MIN/MAX feature to measure the battery current drain. The DVOM must be capable of reading DC milliamps (minimum 1mA) and have 10 amp - fused capacity.
Use the following procedure to measure current drain.
Turn on the DVOM and select DC AMPS.
Attach a large alligator clip on each side of the Battery Saver/Anti-Theft Switch Terminals.
Connect the DVOM in series by securing the leads to the alligator clips on the Battery Saver/Anti-Theft terminals.
Loosen the knob on the Battery Saver/Anti-Theft Switch to break the contact between the negative battery terminal and cable.
NOTE: DO NOT USE A TEST LIGHT OR A VOLT METER AS A CHECK FOR EVIDENCE OF CURRENT FLOW. A TEST LIGHT WILL NOT ACCURATELY DETERMINE THE AMOUNT OF CURRENT FLOW.



Wake the electrical system up by depressing the lock or unlock button on the key fob. Observe the reading on the DVOM. The current flow will "jump" momentarily then after 1-2 minutes settle to the level listed below (a). Actual readings may vary slightly depending on vehicle equipment, battery condition, ambient temperature and DVOM:
.85 amps (850mA) or less (Stand By Mode)
.035 amps (35mA) or less after 45 minutes minimum (Power Down Mode)
During Stand By Mode, current drain readings of 850mA or less indicate the vehicle is performing normally. However, the concern may be intermittent in nature. Set the MIN/MAX feature on the DVOM and periodically check the meter for evidence of excessive current drain. The MIN/MAX feature will record the highest measured current reading.
An electrical system that is operating normally will power down to 35mA or less after 45 minutes minimum. However, it may not be necessary to wait for Power Down Mode to begin diagnosing the source of excessive battery current drain. For example: A current drain reading of 2.5 amps is observed during Stand By Mode. Knowing a normal system will measure 850mA current drain, we can estimate the suspect component is consuming 1.65 amps from the system.
With the Wiring Diagrams Manual and Owner Guide easily accessible, begin to track the 1.65 amps excess drain by removing fuses one at a time until the battery current drain drops to an acceptable level. Once the problem fuse is found, use the EVTM to guide you through the schematic identifying all potential components or circuits. The complexity of the vehicle makes it impossible to diagnose the source of current drain without the appropriate model year Wiring Diagrams Manual.
Start diagnosis in the Rear Power Distribution Box (RPDB) located in the trunk. Remove the smaller amperage mini-fuses, listed below by vehicle, one at a time while checking the meter for current drain drop. If current drain does not drop down to 850mA, leave the fuse out and move on to the next. Continue to remove mini-fuses until all are removed from the RPDB. If the current drain does drop to an acceptable level, proceed to Step 20. If the current drain is unaffected, proceed to Step 18.
Lincoln LS - Fuses 4.01 through 4.18
Thunderbird - Fuses 4.17 through 4.41
NOTE: REMOVING AND REINSTALLING FUSES 2.20 (LS AND THUNDERBIRD) AND 4.14 (LS ONLY), DURING THE FOLLOWING TESTS WILL PROMPT THE SYSTEM TO "WAKE UP". THE CURRENT DRAIN ON THE METER WILL JUMP MOMENTARILY FOR 1-2 MINUTES THEN SLOWLY DECREASE TO PREVIOUSLY MEASURED LEVELS.



NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE THE LARGE AMPERAGE CARTRIDGE FUSES OR ANY RELAYS FROM THE RPDB. BY DOING SO POWER WILL BE LOST TO MULTIPLE FUSES, RELAYS AND COMPONENTS ALL AT THE SAME TIME. THIS TEST IS ATTEMPTING TO LOCATE THE BATTERY CURRENT DRAIN AS CLOSE TO THE COMPONENT LEVEL AS POSSIBLE.



NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE FUSES 4.23, 4.24, 4.27, 4.32 (LS) - 4.10, 4.15, 4.27, 4.28 (THUNDERBIRD) OR SSP RELAYS 1, 2, 3, 4 DURING STAND BY MODE. REMOVING THESE FUSES AND RELAYS WILL LESSEN BATTERY CURRENT DRAIN BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED POWER TO THE REM AND FEM DURING STAND BY MODE. DO NOT FALSELY DIAGNOSE A REM OR FEM PROBLEM AS A RESULT OF THIS ACTIVITY.



If the current drain is not discovered in the RPDB move to the Central Junction Box (CJB), located behind the Right Interior Kick Panel. Remove the mini-fuses one at a time, 2.01 through 2.35, while checking the meter for current drain drop. If current drain does not drop down to 850mA, leave the fuse out and move on to the next. If the current drain does drop, proceed to Step 20.
If the current drain cannot be located in the RPDB or CJB, continue to the Auxiliary Junction Box (AJB) located in the engine compartment. All fuses in the AJB are hot at all times. Start by removing the mini-fuses 1.01 through 1.12. If current drain does not drop down to 850mA, leave the fuses out and move on to cartridge fuses 1.13 through 1.24. If current drain does not drop to 850mA, remove the relays from the AJB and check for current drain drop. If the current drain does drop, proceed to Step 20.
If the excess current drain is discovered when removing any of these fuses or relays, use the Wiring Diagrams Manual, Section 13, to determine the component and/or mini-fuses that are wired downstream in the circuit. Remove those mini-fuses or disable those components to help determine the root cause of the current drain. Use these findings to repair the vehicle as needed and repeat the process starting at Step 7 to verify the repair.
NOTE: IF IT'S DETERMINED THAT A MODULE IS THE SOURCE OF THE CURRENT DRAIN, SELF TEST THE MODULE WITH A SCAN TOOL FOR CODES. ALSO CHECK THE MODULES AVAILABLE PIDS INDEX FOR POSSIBLE ERRANT INPUTS THAT MAY BE CAUSING THE MODULE TO OPERATE ABNORMALLY.



By following this procedure, we have eliminated all potential sources of current drain while not disturbing SSP relays 1 through 4 or power to the REM and FEM. Continue to Step 21.

Cycle the key fob unlock button several times to make certain the vehicle is "awake". Leave the vehicle unattended and observe the battery drain after 45 minutes minimum. The vehicle should have entered Power Down Mode by this time which drops the current drain to 35mA or less.
If the current drain is greater than 35mA, reach inside vehicle and turn on the Left Front Map Lamp (LS - button on the dome lamp assembly, Thunderbird - button on the rear view mirror). Does the lamp illuminate?
Yes - The FEM and REM are awake and the SSP relays are active. Continue to next section of this TSB
No - The FEM and REM have Powered Down. Return to Step 4 and repeat diagnosis
If the current drain is 35mA or less the vehicle is operating normally at this time. However, the concern may be intermittent in nature. Continue with the next section of this article.
Errant activity or a false "wake up" message present in the SCP Link will not allow the system to power down, or may wake up a system that has been Powered Down. This condition may be intermittent in nature.

USING THE NGS CLASSIC TO CHECK FOR UNWANTED ACTIVITY

This section advises how to use the NGS Classic tester to check the SCP Link for this type of unwanted activity. The NGS Classic Service Card is equipped with a SCP Link Monitor Tool which allows the technician the ability to monitor the communication, or traffic, between all modules equipped in the vehicle that use the SCP Link. Many of the vehicle functions are accomplished as a result of the communication between modules.

NOTE: THE NGS Classic WILL CONSUME 507mA AT 12.6V. IF MEASURING CURRENT DRAIN WITH THE NGS Classic INSTALLED, 507mA MUST BE SUBTRACTED FROM THE CURRENT DRAIN DISPLAYED ON THE DVOM TO DETERMINE THE ACTUAL AMOUNT.



Using NGS Classic Service Function Card version 10.1 or higher, select SCP LINK MONITOR TOOL from the main menu.
With the ignition key in the OFF position, connect the NGS Classic to the 16-pin Data Link Connector.
Select the SCP LINK MONITOR TOOL from the main menu and press the START key.
At this point, a normally operating vehicle should have no messages present in the SCP Link. If no messages are present, leave the NGS Classic connected to the vehicle and periodically check for SCP activity. If the concern is intermittent, it may take some time before the suspect component behaves in an undesirable fashion. If a message is eventually observed, continue with Step 5 in this section. Because of the excessive drain caused by the NGS Classic, it may be necessary to connect a battery charger to prevent a dead battery.
If messages are present, press the STOP key. Scroll through the messages on the screen using the scroll dial. The following information will be displayed in order on the NGS Classic. Match this information with the data on the Message List found at the end of this article.
NOTE: WHEN USING THIS TOOL FOR 2003 - 2006 VEHICLES, SOME OF THE MODULE CODES MAY NOT SHOW ON THE CHART. ENOUGH INFORMATION FROM THE SOURCE SHOULD BE AVAILABLE FOR MODULE IDENTIFICATION AND CIRCUIT AFFECTED. EXAMPLE: FCU = FRONT CONTROL UNIT (RADIO).



FNCT (FUNCTION): Displays the two (2) digit ID that represents a category of function to be carried out by the module(s) receiving the message. Match this ID with the Function column on the message list
SRC (SOURCE): Displays the module acronym responsible for sending the SCP message. Match the module source displayed on the NGS Classic to that on the source column of the message list
DATA 01 - 06: Displays more specific information related to the function. Match these characters with the data on columns 1-7 of the message list, along with the source observed, to define the message being viewed on the NGS Classic
FLTR (FILTER): Displays the current status of the FILTER function. You may manipulate the NGS Classic to capture messages that are sent from a particular or chosen module (Source) or Function.
Compare the messages received on the NGS Classic to the message list tables at the end of this article. These will help determine the function, source and name of the message read from the SCP Link. The message list tables provide all possible SCP Link messages listed in order by Source. Most messages are the result of an input to one module being transmitted to another module that carries out a vehicle function. messages may contain information that commands a module to perform a function, while other messages may provide information related to vehicle status that will allow or not allow a function to be performed. Depending on the command, a module may be able to accommodate the command entirely on its own or it may require another module to operate in a certain fashion to achieve the desired initial command. This is all communicated through the SCP Link.

For example, by turning on the headlamp switch the ICM receives the command (input) from the switch to activate all exterior lamps. The ICM does not directly control the exterior lamps, but instead will send a message out over the SCP link telling the FEM and REM that the customer has requested all exterior lamps be turned on. The FEM will receive this message and provide a ground activating all the lamps it has within its control in the front of the vehicle. Simultaneously, the REM will receive the same message over the SCP link requesting that all lamps in the rear of the vehicle associated with headlamp operation be activated.

NOTE: DO NOT PREMATURELY DETERMINE THAT THE SOURCE MODULE IDENTIFIED IS THE CAUSE OF THE BATTERY DRAIN CONDITION. IN MOST CASES, THE MESSAGE CAN BE TRACED TO A FAULTY COMPONENT SENDING A FALSE INPUT ON THE SCP LINK. THIS CONDITION MAY NOT ALLOW A MODULE TO POWER DOWN. IF THE ERRANT MESSAGE OCCURS AFTER POWER DOWN, IT MAY WAKE UP A SYSTEM THAT HAS POWERED DOWN.



The following function keys are active when monitoring the SCP Link:
RESET: Clears the screen while the monitor is running
FLTR: Turns the filter feature ON or OFF as indicated by the FLRT display in the upper right screen
SETUP: When SETUP is pressed, the filter setup screen will appear. This will allow the operator to specify the capture of only certain messages by either its source (particular module) or function
START:The START key will start the NGS Classic in monitor mode, and display all traffic on the link. The START key will now be displayed as STOP. Pressing the STOP key will stop the monitor from reading any further traffic on the SCP link
NOTE: PRESSING THE START KEY AGAIN WILL CLEAR THE SCREEN OF ALL CAPTURED MESSAGES.



NOTE: THE NGS Classic WILL CONTINUOUSLY CAPTURE MESSAGES BUT WILL ONLY DISPLAY UP TO 100 MESSAGES AT ONE TIME. ONCE 100 MESSAGES ARE STORED, THE FIRST MESSAGE WILL BE DELETED FROM THE LIST. THE MONITOR OPERATES ON THE "FIRST IN, FIRST OUT" PRINCIPAL.



NOTE: THE PCM AND ABS SHOULD NOT DISPLAY ANY FORM OF MESSAGE ACTIVITY WITH THE KEY IN THE OFF POSITION. IF ANY PCM OR ABS MESSAGES ARE DETECTED AT THIS TIME, CHECK FOR VOLTAGE ON CIRCUITS WHICH SHOULD ONLY HAVE POWER WHEN THE KEY IS ON OR IN THE CRANK POSITION.



USING THE NGS CLASSIC TO CAPTURE MESSAGES FROM A PARTICULAR MODULE

If needed, the NGS Classic may be manipulated to capture messages that are sent from a particular module (source) or function. To setup the FLTR feature to capture only messages sent by a module use the following procedure:

Enter the SETUP menu and press the SRC key.
Use the scroll to select the desired module and press Trigger.
Press the Cancel button to return to the monitor screen.
Press the FLTR button to toggle the FLTR display in the upper right screen to on.
The NGS Classic will now display only messages sent by the module that you specified in the SETUP menu.
USING THE NGS CLASSIC TO CAPTURE MESSAGES RELATED TO CERTAIN FUNCTIONS

To setup the FLTR feature to capture only messages related to certain functions use the following procedure:

Enter the SETUP menu and press the FNCT key.
Use the scroll to select the desired function from the message list and press Trigger.
Press the Cancel button to return to the monitor screen.
Press the FLTR button to toggle the FLTR display in the upper right screen to on.
The NGS Classic will now display only messages relating the Function you specified in the SETUP menu.
NOTE: GEM AND FEM ARE INTERCHANGEABLE IN THE FOLLOWING FIGURES.
 
Is there a warning icon that lights up on your instrument cluster that looks like a battery if so this could mean a bad alternator, if it's the original alternator in your car it's almost 18 years old and more than likely needs to be replaced
 
The car isn't driven yet. I just purchased it after sitting a year and with a fresh charged battery it will be too weak to start hours later. The only icon warnings that come on are ABS & traction control. I have a Solas Pro borrowed any day to run for codes as that may just be wheel sensor related.
 
The car isn't driven yet. I just purchased it after sitting a year and with a fresh charged battery it will be too weak to start hours later. The only icon warnings that come on are ABS & traction control. I have a Solas Pro borrowed any day to run for codes as that may just be wheel sensor related.
Hmm interesting.... I would disconnect battery for about 24 hours and re-connect see if you get the same results might be the PCM
 
...might be the PCM

What do you base that on? It only has a memory circuit back up connection to power when the key is off. It that were bad enough to quickly drain the battery, I can't imagine that the PCM would work at all to run the engine. FEM, REM, DATC, Cluster, DDM, DSM, alternator, and radio are the things on gen 1 with full time battery connections that would be likely part of or all of the issue.
 
It
What do you base that on? It only has a memory circuit back up connection to power when the key is off. It that were bad enough to quickly drain the battery, I can't imagine that the PCM would work at all to run the engine. FEM, REM, DATC, Cluster, DDM, DSM, alternator, and radio are the things on gen 1 with full time battery connections that would be likely part of or all of the issue.
s an easy way to find out for sure if the main harness is grounding out with wire or wires plural
 
Not following at all...

It's not the PCM. It's not powered without the key in the run position.
It's not wires shorted to ground. That would blow fuses or start fires.
There's no reason to disconnect the battery. He's already diagnosed it down to being a parasitic drain while the car is off, not self-discharge of the battery.
 
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It's a component drain for sure and must be a bad one to drain the battery so fast. The car runs fine and everything works. Just drains the battery once its shut off. I have that quick disconnect item on the way to perform this test & will update the results.
 
What do you base that on? It only has a memory circuit back up connection to power when the key is off. It that were bad enough to quickly drain the battery, I can't imagine that the PCM would work at all to run the engine. FEM, REM, DATC, Cluster, DDM, DSM, alternator, and radio are the things on gen 1 with full time battery connections that would be likely part of or all of the issue.
I have a friend who had the same problem a mechanic told him to disconnect battery for 24 hours and if the problem continued with battery draining he would use an ohm reader on the car to figure out what wire/wires were grounding out and continuing to suck power when car was shut off ... The mechanic found the problematic wires on the main harness don't ask me how the mechanic knew this, whether dumb luck or whatever he fixed the problem
 
And how does the PCM come into this?
I assure you that a resistance check on the electronics of the LS will not be remotely useful. Not all situations are the same...
 
I'll be measuring amp draw and pulling fuses, This will at least give me a ballpark area to check. I also have Ford dealership diagnostic software for a laptop, but need to get the VCM 2 interface.
 
I have had a much milder version of your problem for more than 10 years. So long as I drive the car every 2-3 days all is OK. But I have routinely plugged a trickle-charger in to keep the battery up if I don't plan to drive for a while. It's never gotten any worse and never seemed to entirely go away. My car's an '02.

KS
 
I'll be measuring amp draw and pulling fuses, This will at least give me a ballpark area to check. I also have Ford dealership diagnostic software for a laptop, but need to get the VCM 2 interface.
As I was saying earlier in the thread it could have a defective alternator diode. ... If your alternator has a bad diode, it can drain your battery. The bad diode can cause the circuit to charge even when the engine is shut off, and you end up in the morning with a car that won't start. Joegr and you are probably right though it's more than likely a parasitic drain from some component/components...keep us posted what you find out and I hope you figure this out for a $500 dollar Lincoln LS it's worth trying to fix it
 
Tested the battery 1st ( 12.76 ) then connected the battery and started the car and retested voltage ( 14.35 ) which satisfied me the charging system was fine. I don't have a load tester however. Started the battery drain diagnostic steps and sure enough it had a HUGE drain reading of 5.80 amps !!!. Pulling the interior lights and radio fuse knocked that down to 0.60. After letting the car sit an hour and going to 'sleep" that dropped to 0.08. Looks like some interior lamp and radio circuit investigations are in order. For now, they are out of order lol
 
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It's a good start ....now you can start to replace faulty components that are depleting the battery have you thought about replacing the old radio? A new Bluetooth deck Is always nice for Spotify and/or pandora
 
The radio was bad in this car. I had a 2001 parts car that had the factory Alpine deck and swapped that early on which fixed the issue. The original would power on but no volume control. The interior lights I could care less about. If I could pull them all and just keep one overhead working would be nice. I will inspect all the bulbs and such just to make sure it's nothing simple. Cleared all codes today with the Solus Pro, went for a test drive and the ABS warning came on almost from the start. That showed a wheel sensor error but no other codes.
 
So, when the car sleeps, it turns off the relay that supplies power to the interior lamps. 5A does sound a little high for the lights. If I recall correctly, it's about 250mA or so while awake with the lights all off. This drops to less than 50mA (maybe 30mA or so?) when the car sleeps and turns off the SSP relays. (80mA sleeping is still too high.)

If you had a FLIR, it might be easy to find. That's 60 watts or so of heat somewhere. I found a bad DDM that way once on a Grand Marquis. You could even feel that the door panel was warm where the DDM was (behind it).
 
So, specifically which fuse number in which fuse box? I can tell you exactly what all it is connected to. (PM me your email if you want the full wiring diagrams.)
 
The radio was bad in this car. I had a 2001 parts car that had the factory Alpine deck and swapped that early on which fixed the issue. The original would power on but no volume control. The interior lights I could care less about. If I could pull them all and just keep one overhead working would be nice. I will inspect all the bulbs and such just to make sure it's nothing simple. Cleared all codes today with the Solus Pro, went for a test drive and the ABS warning came on almost from the start. That showed a wheel sensor error but no other codes.
I like where your head is at ....SIMPLE is always the best place to start I can't even begin to say how much money I saved checking fuses first...not sure if the traction control is tied with the Anti- Lock- Brakes or not I'm sure Joegr or Rigs would know that ....keep us posted with any additional info about the battery ....
 
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The entire 5 amp drain wasn't just the interior lights. That was a large portion. When I pulled that fuse from the trunk location the drain reduced to only 1.80 amps instantly. Pulling the radio fuse inside the passenger kick panel fuse box reduced it to 0.80. I then let the car sit an hour, rechecked, and the reading was showing 0.08. No other fuses pulled during the time made any changes on the reading.
 

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