audiophile system question

[tmvandekamp]

I got a 02 LS sport with the 6 disc in dash changer. I am aware that there are 12 speakers but I would like to know the details incase I want to upgrade. What are the speaker sizes/locations as well as the amp?

Thanks.

 

[Quik LS]

You only have 12 speakers - if you have the audiophile option - your CD changer has to say 'Alpine' on the CD door.

The audiophile option -
- four 2-way 5"x8" speakers - one in each door - driven by the head unit (these count as two speakers each)
- two 3.5" speakers in the console lower front - driven by a DSP (digital signal processing) amp under the dash infront of the console
- two 6"x9" speakers in the rear deck - driven by a 85w sub-woofer amp under the rear deck

You can also do a test of the audio system. Push and hold presets 3 and 6 simultaneously and the system enters a speaker test mode. It sends tones to each speaker so you can tell if you have a blown or disconnected speaker. While the speaker test is running hit the presets for other information and tests. Tune > seems to cycle through some of the displays.


Stereo Wiring:

According to the FOMOCO wiring diagram for 2000-2002, the factory harness connectors are wired as follows:

The large 20-pin connector:
Position 5 and 6 = right rear (- white and + gray)
Position 12 and 13 = left rear (- whit/violet and + gray/white)
Position 7 and 8 = right front (- white/red and + gray/red)
Position 14 and 15 = left front (- white/black and + gray/black)

Constant power = position 9 (orange.black)
Switched hot in start = position 3 (gray/orange)
Switched hot in run or ACC = position 10 (yellow/green)
Ground = position 16 (black/green)

The 16-pin connector contains the connections to the steering wheel controls and various data bus signals. The cassette systems with external CD changer have a connector dedicated to the signal cable for the changer.

On audiophile systems, there is an 8-pin connector wired as follows:
position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel - line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel + line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)

The trunk connector (on the drivers side) is number C465 and the sub audio uses these pins:
1 = yellow/red: switched hot
3 = shield for low level audio signal
5 = red: constant power from battery junction box fuse F418 (20 amps)
7 = white/red: low level LEFT audio signal
8 = grey/red: low level RIGHT audio signal

 

[FreeFaller]

Hmm...I didn't know about that speaker test. I've noticed a rattle coming from one of my speakers. I think I'll go do that and see if I can isolate it.

 

[lsbit]

Hey Quick,

I have a Quick Audiphile question. The low-level output wires (C465) in the trunk; are those line level outputs that you would use to connect to an aftermarket amp that are usually the RCA-type connectors in an aftermarket system?

Looking at it from a different angle, if I had an aftermarket Alpine deck with line-out for sub control, could I then run cables from that output to the stock amp in the trunk to drive those speakers?

The above is how I understand it and is how I always thought the Audiophile layout worked, but some other posts I have seen here make it sound like I am wrong. I have seen people mention converters and maybe they are talking about the non-audiophile system.

You could just add these questions to that awesome auto-reply mechanism you are running there.

Thanks.

 

[Quik LS]

what I did was:
- run new 4g wires for + and - to the battery
- used pin1 from the trunk connector connected it to the amp's remote on switch
- attched RCAs to pin7 and 8 (using 3 as the ground) connected it the amp's low level inputs

- works fine - 1000w driving two 12" subs

 

[lsbit]

what I did was:
- run new 4g wires for + and - to the battery
- used pin1 from the trunk connector connected it to the amp's remote on switch
- attched RCAs to pin7 and 8 (using 3 as the ground) connected it the amp's low level inputs

- works fine - 1000w driving two 12" subs

So...Yes and Yes.

Thanks Quick! I almost forgot about the remote on. I converted my car to the Audiophile system, so I have easy access to those wires at the radio and trunk due to the fact that I had to splice an Audiophile connector into the wiring.

 

[tmvandekamp]

So...Yes and Yes.

Thanks Quick! I almost forgot about the remote on. I converted my car to the Audiophile system, so I have easy access to those wires at the radio and trunk due to the fact that I had to splice an Audiophile connector into the wiring.

Thanks for the help.

 

[itsnotmydaddys]

quik stop showing off.

 

[bigpappy33]

So...Yes and Yes.

Thanks Quick! I almost forgot about the remote on. I converted my car to the Audiophile system, so I have easy access to those wires at the radio and trunk due to the fact that I had to splice an Audiophile connector into the wiring.

how did you convert to the audiophile system? what were you converting from? i have the 2000 sport package's cd/cassete headunit with the glove box cd changer, and was just double checking to see if there are any alternatives to wire a system other than a LOC to the rear door speaker's signal. :slam

 

[tlaprade]

If I want to swap out the 6X9's in the back for a pair of MB Quart that I had in my last car, would I have to disconnect the amp, or could I run them from that? Also, how do I take the back deck off to access the speakers? Thanks in advance.

 

[lsbit]

how did you convert to the audiophile system?

I converted from the non-audiophile system. The radios are almost identical. There is just one extra connector which are the line outs for the center channel and rear sub. I found the wires by the left kick panel which run to the trunk. I just tapped into those and ran a few feet of wire to the radio itself. My wife complained about the sub taking up too much trunk room so I took the setup out of her car and what prompted me to do the whole thing.

Understand that the audiophile system has mid/treble speakers in the doors and the only bass comes from the rear subs. Talk about mega bass and bad balance of sound with the wrong speakers!! Anyway, you can use that wiring for an aftermarket system, you will just probably have to solder on some RCAs like Quik mentioned. That is what I am going to end up doing.

I have been meaning to post a tech article with pictures on this and a couple other things I have done...just no time right now.

Hope this helps.

 

[lsbit]

Oh...if you don't have the Audiophile radio, you don't have line outputs in your radio. That is the difference.