anyone tried Brake Motive rotors?

They CRACK... I wish you'd pay attention when people are talking in other treads you've posted in...
Drilled rotors will crack, get Dimpled.
 
Sapperfire said:
They CRACK...
...
Drilled rotors will crack, get Dimpled.
Click to expand...

Cheap drilled rotors may crack.

If you can find some Baer rotors, they seem to be good quality and mine have not cracked. Don't know 'bout the Motives.
 
I would shy away from drilled rotors, they used to have a purpose back when pads needed to out gas, but with new compounds they are pretty much only for the look. They can crack, but I would tend to avoid them simply because there is no gain from the money spent on them.

-Alan
 
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/cross_drilled_rotors/dangerous_cross_drilled_rotors.shtml

23hoh1l.jpg


I've used Motive Drilled and slotted, they all cracked. LaserSVTs set also cracked
 
lobird91 said:
i would shy away from drilled rotors, they used to have a purpose back when pads needed to out gas, but with new compounds they are pretty much only for the look. They can crack, but i would tend to avoid them simply because there is no gain from the money spent on them.

-alan
Click to expand...

:I Exactly.
 
Do you not have a parts store that sells Good Quality parts where you live?

I don't know why they call them Duralast.. they ain't Durable, nor do they Last
 
Sapperfire said:
Do you not have a parts store that sells Good Quality parts where you live?
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I live outside Atlanta, Ga...whatever you want, you can find it here
-- the rotors on my car now are Duralast and have been fine for the last 20k+ miles;
 
I dunno, you have to get out there and bust your knuckles whether it's a POS part or a high grade part. I always bite the bullet for quality 'cause the blood cost is the same.
 
PenGun said:
I dunno, you have to get out there and bust your knuckles whether it's a POS part or a high grade part. I always bite the bullet for quality 'cause the blood cost is the same.
Click to expand...

I'd say the blood costs more when you do it twice because the 1st time part was crap..
I tend to like quality over quantity anyway. Its like as a guys we brag about how many chicks we've laid- but fail to mention that half of them qualify as small cows
 
Oddly, I have had great luck with drill and slotted on other vehicles but for my gen 1 that constantly warped, I choose auto zone rotors for a 98. I have herd 98 rotors are just a hair thicker and from what I’ve seen, this is true.
 
I have the drilled and slotted brake motive rotors front and rear. I also got the Wagner thermo quiets. The brakes make a little roaring about 20-15. But it's seemed to have all but gone away. I don't use them for heavy braking. I drive normal around. You would not believe how LITTLE amount of brake dust im getting. I am happy with them. Almost a year now that I've had them.
 
isaiah3g said:
I have the drilled and slotted brake motive rotors front and rear. I also got the Wagner thermo quiets. The brakes make a little roaring about 20-15. But it's seemed to have all but gone away. I don't use them for heavy braking. I drive normal around. You would not believe how LITTLE amount of brake dust im getting. I am happy with them. Almost a year now that I've had them.
Click to expand...
---
I knew I saw where somebody was praising them on here, thanks 3g
 
Wagner

I put Wagner thermo's on my 95 about 2 years ago. I still have orginal rotors that I cleaned properly and they work great. I check them at least twice a year and still look great. My 98 has almost new pads (previous owner did ) and I'm switching to trermo's. The 95 has much better braking than the 98. Another spring time job.
 
I wonder what percentage of people check the wheel hubs for run out when installing new rotors? If the hub runs out, the rotor runs out and it is magnified because the diameter of the rotor is much larger than the hub. Then the rotors warp and the steering wheel shakes. Then the person complains that their new rotors are junk.
 
Well, a bearing with runout would be magnified by the wheel, not just pulsation during braking, which I would hope would help in diagnosis of the failed part
 
dnsherrill said:
looks like a fair price on those pads, I think these are the ones that will fit my PBR front calipers- they're off a '94 C4 vette
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-MX412-...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000CQVRPO
Click to expand...

No...doesn't the calipers you bought have 2 holes in the face like a Cobra caliper? Your pic in the other thread doesn't show them and I'm too lazy to walk across the parking lot at look at our Vette


And list price @ $222 for some nasty Semi Mets..rofl.

You need this style pad...in Ceramic. -_-
20130205_130840.jpg


Did the guy you got those calipers from include the holding pins and clips?
 
Sapperfire said:
No...doesn't the calipers you bought have 2 holes in the face like a Cobra caliper?
Click to expand...
yep...indeed
Did the guy you got those calipers from include the holding pins and clips?
Click to expand...
no pins, but I've got those lined up...he did include the existing semi met pads, which are actually in pretty good shape and look like the one you displayed; but I might as well use new pads now...
flea_bay listing
Wagner MX412...says it fits '96 Cobra?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-PADS-...635&pid=100015&prg=1085&rk=1&sd=300753011685&
---finally got some down time tonight; I'm bout to put those Mark VIII brake line ends (copper banjo bolt spacers) up against a bench grinder!
 
Grind Just the passengers side, like I showed you

Yes you use cobra brake pads with "cobra" calipers-_-
 
Vette (PBR) calps, Cobra Brackets, Mark VIII brake lines,
---
pads? Cobra or C4 Vette
 
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