Another cooling/overheating thread

dnsherrill

dnsherrill

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background:
my white 96' is still somewhat new to me, it has just under 110k on it; one of the first things I did was replace the ofa gask to resolve a major oil leak, I also r/r'd several hoses and t-stat (non Motorcraft part). I installed the new t-stat the same way it came out, but i don't know that it's pointing down as it should be. Rebuilt front end and converted to coils, I've put about 500 miles on it so far; my typical drive 5x/week is highway cruising about 70mph, a few stop/go jams mixed in that don't make the temp gauge get out of the NORMAL range
N-
O-
R-215(Fan turns on)
M-200
A-180
L-160
if I cruise at 70, with OD off, the gauge stays in the middle of NORMAL, if OD is ON it will climb to 'O' (well over 200F), it has yet to get out of NORMAL or shut off automatically so I've been naively feeling okay about it, I thought N was 215; awhile back, the pressure relief cap at the reservoir tank was leaking, I was fearful of a blown head gasket but have no other typical symptoms and am now mostly convinced that's not an issue. I replaced the cap and it stopped leaking; I finally opened my service manual for pinpoint testing. I have an xcal2 and have d/l'd the drivers and software but still cannot capture data. I thought air bubble and have burped it successfully I believe
here's where I'm at today:
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okay, so my heater core hoses are both warm after 3-4 minutes (heater core is not clogged), and after 10 minutes neither the upper radi hose or the heater water hoses are cold (t-stat is good?), after about 22 minutes, with the gauge at 'M' (about 200?) the lower radi hose it more than hot to the touch. The fan kicks on with the gauge still in the middle of NORMAL . The lower hose never drops in temp. I'm trying to use the live link data reader, but it says" INVALID CAPTURE SETUP"
I go to feel the lower hose again (it should be cooling?) then I see coolant dripping on the concrete, leaking from the reservoir cap again...too much pressure ? clogged radiator?
:q
---
right now I'm almost ready to park this p.o.s and strip it or give it away
 
Leaky tank is probably the answer. This would also help promote air bubble in the system. I have had an air bubble cause the near same range of temperature fluctuations. When you burp the system be sure that you also have the temp setting to max on your heater. I shifted everything down about one full letter down lowering the operating temperature once it was fully burped.
 
leaky trank....makes sense, especially considering that out of sheer stupidity I damaged then repaired the nipple going to the reservoir tank!
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P1050108_zps447ac967.jpg
 
Roadboss said:
When you burp the system be sure that you also have the temp setting to max on your heater.
Click to expand...

this makes no sense to me. the heater core has full flow at all times regardless of EATC setting.
i don't bleed with the heat on and i run below the M at all times. usually down around the lower half of A.
 
okey dokey, I have the plastic-tanked radiator in hand (made in china, 135 from Advance) with coolant and distilled. I also have a new Motorcraft 180, but my existing t-stat has less than 600 miles on it, so I'm just gonna do the radi for now...first time doing this job...any helpful tips? I have the factory service manual as a guide
 
To R&R the radiator is easy. Just follow along with the manual.

I forget, are you sure you have the right t-stat? The one with the larger opening?
 
well, I have a motorcraft rt1085 n.i.b...I was thinking i didn't want to replace the t-stat cause it's a pain to get at, and the one in there is almost new...but now, w/out the fan and radi it's a little easier to access, so new t-stat and radi :cool:
---yea, came out simple- 4 bolts, 3 hoses, 2 trans lines...teflon on the new trans line fittings
 
If you have already done the T-stat it shouldn't be so bad to do again. Chances are you have already positioned the hose clamps so you can get at them and may have switched a couple to regular hose clamps. I do mine from the top because I prefer to remove the entire thermostat housing and install the T-stat off the car. Then I can make sure the O-ring is in place and that the T-stat is not in BACKWARDS and tighten the screws evenly. I believe I did the last one in under an hour with almost no mess.

If you're 99% sure the thermostat has the wide orifice and is in the right way, then CHANGE IT. 99% is not good enough.
 
got the new radi in, put in new MC tstat, filled and burped. test drive...night and day difference; drove about 20 miles with one stop in the middle; the temp needle never got above A until I pulled back in the driveway and let it idle, slowed eased up to M, fan kicked on....all is well
-Roadboss, you nailed it, THANKS- now i get back to the other stuff this car needs: strut mounts, stereo fix, fob program, drv side mirror r/r, plugs, tune, tint...for starters
 
How much you pay for a new Rad and where did you get it. Just curious how much there running now?
 
well, this is my dd and the brown car has trash tires on it- so I had to take what I could get on a Saturday: Advance Auto, generic made in china item, 135 plus tax...the sad part is when I broke that nipple at the top several months ago I bought an all aluminum one for about 100 delivered. I though I fixed the nipple and sent it back to 'em. Being cheap, lazy, and short-sighted can be painful!
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but she's nice and cool now.....all is well
 
The person who owned the D.A. before me thought it was a good idea to just glue the nipple shut when they snapped it off. Real good plan there, as if it's not needed. I got the replacement radiator off an Cougar at U-pull for, I think, $35. It works fine.

That's how a real cheapskate does it just so you know. I still have the old radiator and am considering fixing the nipple so I have a spare.
 
I think b/c of the Fahrenheit temp to NORMAL translation, taken from LoD per Driller, btw...even though that's consistent w/ the new 'overheat' thread posted today...so yea, idk why
 
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