alternator voltage

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jason2000ls

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ok so after frying my amp due to voltage drop i figured it was time to install a digital voltage gauge. question being is what is the voltage suposed to be at while the car is running.. With a 100 percent stock charging system im seeing anywhere beteween 13.5 v to 14 v. this normal. it never gets to 14.4. yes i know upgrade the electrical.. its been done. all im wondering is where its at stock.
 
That range (13.5 to 14.2) is good, but it's desirable that it not go below 13.8 (at the battery) while the engine is running.
 
mine usually sits @ 14-14.2, it also could make a little difference where it is reading from.
 
Just don't turn it up so high while @ idle RPM speeds.

You are clipping your amp when you have it cranked and the dashlights/halogen headlights are dimming.


I have a high performance drycell battery that allows a little more wiggle room in terms of keeping the volume up with the car slowing down. Whatever you do, don't install a capacitor.
 
So after frying temporary amp number 2.. I might add, voltage never dropped below 12.9. Subwoofers coils check out. Any suggestions on an amplifier capiable of handeling these beasts. (W7 x 2) ??? Something in the 2k watt rms range I would assume.
 
I've heard no audioble clipping either times. I know its very hard to hear with w7s. Amp wasn't that hot. 0 gauge wiring. Big 3 . 2 batterys. First amp was an xtant x1001 (about 1300watts rms @ 1.5 ohm. ) Us made. Second temp amp was a hertz ep1d. Both times bass heavy songs.. Thinking allthough not clipping. The w7s are just too hard on the amp if being underpowered.?? Ideas ? Sealed box about 5 cubft
 
You have two W7s? That is ridiculous for the LS.

Anyways there is no such thing as underpowering woofers and it damaging an amplifier (or the driver(s) for that matter).

Big 3 and two batteries is a good start, but the LS's stock alternator is built for what seems to be just enough amperage for the allotted accessories. Judging by your screenname, it appears you have a first generation LS - in which the alternator is 110amp unless I am mistaken. (second gen is 140amp, just for reference).


If you have ditched the hydraulic cooling fan, you are also using up some of the wiggle room in amperes.

I believe the first generation LS does have a high output alternator option that is decently reliable.


My suggestion is either look into the HO alternator, or drop a woofer and run a <1000k watt amp. With the money spent on amplifiers, you may as well get yourself the alt since it appears you cannot turn down the volume when the engine is running low RPMs.
 
sounds like you are not experiencing a problem with the amps, i think your problem is that you are overloading your alternators, not only are sucking down more power with either of those two amps, than the entire car consumes on its own, but you also added another battery that needs to be kept charged. the two batteries thing only helps for a short period of time, then once you have used up all the extra power it has stored, you are now requiring the alt to power everything (which there is no way it can)
 
Amp number 3 re audio xtx 5000.1 turned wayy down.. Love it.. So much louder then either of the previous.. Super clean. Even bumpn hard I havnt seen below 13.1 volts. Stays ice cold. Can't feel any warmth what so ever. Highly reccomend this amp.. I only paid 2 hundred bux. Its avail online pretty cheep. May not do 2500 watts rms.. But 2k forsure. Seems to be more efficient then the xtant or hertz. No bass boost. Gain @ 1 third. 2.2 volt preout
 
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