Found one air line loose on the top of the compressor Dryer and ordered a part from the local ford dealership F1LY-5B321-A and I just want to make sure this is the right brass grommet I need for this repair, the brass grommet looks the same but the o-rings look different and I look at the instructions on how to install it and it tells me to look at a repair manual. The green hose was out of the compressor and the grommet looked messed up, I just want to put it back together in the right order cause I know they will grab the hose and not let go sometimes, just like the tranny lines. Anyone have some pics on the right order of installation before I have to go buy another kit for $20 bucks for one brass fitting and some o-rings..........lol. I also noticed on a post earlier about air ride troubleshooting Elessee had mentioned a way of getting troubleshooting codes from the car and that it was posted on one of his earlier posts, I looked but I can't find that post, any help would be appreciated. Thanks as always. Gramps
Air ride compressor air lines
- Thread starter gramps
- Start date
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
Sure.
Here's a picture or two of one I rebuilt for fun.
http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/Gallery/20090505carDay/DSCF0468
If you saved the white plastic washer, that's a PLUS. Assembly is
o-ring (very lightly soaped for lubrication)
plastic washer
brass
orange (in this case) plastic grommet
Insert air line up to the bump stop or 5/8 inch into the dryer.
Here's a picture or two of one I rebuilt for fun.
http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/Gallery/20090505carDay/DSCF0468
If you saved the white plastic washer, that's a PLUS. Assembly is
o-ring (very lightly soaped for lubrication)
plastic washer
brass
orange (in this case) plastic grommet
Insert air line up to the bump stop or 5/8 inch into the dryer.
Thanks old school that helps, I took the entire comprssor apart last night to see what I might see. I am having problems with the system not airing up the suspension bags, if I add air through the schrader valve it airs up the back but not the front, but I was also reading in some of the other posts that you need 125 PSI to raise the front and that might be the problem I was using the cheap little air pump at the gas station which only went up to about 75PSI. After I aired up the rear end it set for two days and did not collapse so I know I have no air problems with the air bags in the back. Can a person just buy a repair kit for the compressor it does not look that bad other than I would like to replace the fabric rings on the piston before I put it back together to see if this is the problem. Hate to order a new one and find out that it was something else, that is why I would like to have that troubleshooting procedure that Elessee had posted earlier that I can't find. Gramps
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
Suspension 101
Our fronts fill only after the rears are satisfied.
Our compressors have a finite life and there are no rebuild kits (no matter how simple it is to rebuild one). The one in your vehicle worked tirelessly for at least eighteen YEARS. I expect that in the past three or four years, it worked double duty trying to compensate for a leak somewhere in the system. Today's compressorsare built just as well if not better. retire your current compressor AND dryer. Replacing them with new assemblies will give you over a DECADE of use.
As for a write up on our suspension systems, here's what Ford has to say:
http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=105
You're welcome.
You have a leak somewhere.
Our fronts fill only after the rears are satisfied.
Our compressors have a finite life and there are no rebuild kits (no matter how simple it is to rebuild one). The one in your vehicle worked tirelessly for at least eighteen YEARS. I expect that in the past three or four years, it worked double duty trying to compensate for a leak somewhere in the system. Today's compressorsare built just as well if not better. retire your current compressor AND dryer. Replacing them with new assemblies will give you over a DECADE of use.
As for a write up on our suspension systems, here's what Ford has to say:
http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=105
"....troubleshooting procedure that Elessee had posted earlier that I can't find. Gramps "
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I guess you want to know how to enter the air suspension's self-diagnostic routine..
1. Turn ON the air suspension switch in the trunk. The little pigtail wire hanging off the switch should be ungrounded.
2. Install a battery charger. (these tests will run the battery down)
3. Turn the ignition switch to RUN and leave it there for at least 5 seconds.
Turn the ignition OFF. Open the driver door. (All other doors are shut.)
4. Get out, go to the trunk and Ground the little pigtail wire on the suspension switch.. (maybe use some sort of wire and clip it to a nearby bolt, nut, or piece of metal on the frame).
5. Get back in the driver seat (leave door open) and turn the ignition to RUN. (Do not start the engine)
At this point, the air suspension warning lamp should start blinking. If so, the diagnostics testing is ready to go.
6. Close and open the driver door (once) to initiate Test #1.
The warning lamp will blink once.. pause.. once.. pause.. indicating you are in Test #1.
7. If you close the door and open it again, you'll enter Test #2. The lamp will blink twice, pause.. twice.. pause.. meaning you're running Test #2.
Close and open the door to advance through the tests. The lamp's blinking sequence will indicate which test you are currently doing.
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There are ten tests.
1. Rear suspension
2. RH Front suspension
3. LH Front suspension
4. Compressor cycles on and off.
5. Vent solenoid opens and closes.
(This solenoid is inside the pump. You can hear it click-click-click... Or, put your hand on the pump to feel it clicking..)
6. LH front solenoid opens and closes ... click.. click..click.. AND vent solenoid is opened.
Note that the vent solenoid (in the pump) must be open or the springs cannot deflate.
So, BOTH (one or more) wheel solenoid(s) AND the "vent" solenoid must be open for a spring to deflate.
7. RH Front solenoid opens and closes (click.. click once per second) and the Vent solenoid is opened.
8. RH Rear solenoid..... (etc as above in #7.)
9. LH Rear solenoid..... (etc)
10. This test turns the diagnostics off.
Pressing the brake pedal OR turning the ignition to OFF, OR disconnecting the pigtail lead in the trunk should exit the routine.
You don't want to drive around with this testing procedure activated. You don't want it activated at all. Opening a door could produce a surprise.
Make sure it's off.. disconnect (UNground) that pigtail lead when you're finished.
------
I guess you want to know how to enter the air suspension's self-diagnostic routine..
1. Turn ON the air suspension switch in the trunk. The little pigtail wire hanging off the switch should be ungrounded.
2. Install a battery charger. (these tests will run the battery down)
3. Turn the ignition switch to RUN and leave it there for at least 5 seconds.
Turn the ignition OFF. Open the driver door. (All other doors are shut.)
4. Get out, go to the trunk and Ground the little pigtail wire on the suspension switch.. (maybe use some sort of wire and clip it to a nearby bolt, nut, or piece of metal on the frame).
5. Get back in the driver seat (leave door open) and turn the ignition to RUN. (Do not start the engine)
At this point, the air suspension warning lamp should start blinking. If so, the diagnostics testing is ready to go.
6. Close and open the driver door (once) to initiate Test #1.
The warning lamp will blink once.. pause.. once.. pause.. indicating you are in Test #1.
7. If you close the door and open it again, you'll enter Test #2. The lamp will blink twice, pause.. twice.. pause.. meaning you're running Test #2.
Close and open the door to advance through the tests. The lamp's blinking sequence will indicate which test you are currently doing.
-------------
There are ten tests.
1. Rear suspension
2. RH Front suspension
3. LH Front suspension
4. Compressor cycles on and off.
5. Vent solenoid opens and closes.
(This solenoid is inside the pump. You can hear it click-click-click... Or, put your hand on the pump to feel it clicking..)
6. LH front solenoid opens and closes ... click.. click..click.. AND vent solenoid is opened.
Note that the vent solenoid (in the pump) must be open or the springs cannot deflate.
So, BOTH (one or more) wheel solenoid(s) AND the "vent" solenoid must be open for a spring to deflate.
7. RH Front solenoid opens and closes (click.. click once per second) and the Vent solenoid is opened.
8. RH Rear solenoid..... (etc as above in #7.)
9. LH Rear solenoid..... (etc)
10. This test turns the diagnostics off.
Pressing the brake pedal OR turning the ignition to OFF, OR disconnecting the pigtail lead in the trunk should exit the routine.
You don't want to drive around with this testing procedure activated. You don't want it activated at all. Opening a door could produce a surprise.
Make sure it's off.. disconnect (UNground) that pigtail lead when you're finished.
Solenoids
I have one more question, looking at the way the solenoids are built I take it that they are either open or closed. Are they normally closed and it takes power to open them to put air in, if it is to low and let it out if it is to high?
I am still trying to figure the system out in my head. The old mechanic in me needs to understand the system before I can troubleshoot it. I think both of my front solenoids may be bad is why I asking. My new compressor should be showing up this week and then get to work on it to see if anything else might be wrong with the suspension.
I have one more question, looking at the way the solenoids are built I take it that they are either open or closed. Are they normally closed and it takes power to open them to put air in, if it is to low and let it out if it is to high?
I am still trying to figure the system out in my head. The old mechanic in me needs to understand the system before I can troubleshoot it. I think both of my front solenoids may be bad is why I asking. My new compressor should be showing up this week and then get to work on it to see if anything else might be wrong with the suspension.
Yes, the solenoids are normally closed (a spring holds it closed), and must be powered to allow air to flow either in or out (an electromagnet overcomes the force of the spring).
While an individual wheel solenoid may be perfectly functional and OPEN, air cannot yet flow. The Vent Solenoid must also be open.
The Vent Solenoid, located in the pump, services all four wheel solenoids, and it allows air in and out of the four air springs.
If the VENT is open but a wheel solenoid is not working, no air can get into or out of that wheel. BOTH the vent and wheel solenoid must open for air to flow in either direction.
----
"I think both of my front solenoids may be bad is why I asking."
Run the tests in sequence. All four corners of the car will (should) rise on the first three tests.
If Test #2 and #3 are successful, the front corners will rise. That means the pump, the vent solenoid and both of the front wheel solenoids are functional.
-----
Test #6 is the first test that lowers a corner. (LH Front)
Since Test #6 opens both the VENT and LH Front wheel solenoids while the pump is OFF, the LH front corner will slowly lower itself (Air will escape).
Test #6 "proves" that the Left Hand Front wheel solenoid (and the vent solenoid) is operational.
The solenoids make a CLICK sound. The internal magnets are powerful and, if your hand is in close proximity, you can feel the vibration when they click open and closed.
-------
Run the tests. Leave the hood open and walk around the car while a test is running, so you can closely observe the results of that test.
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I don't wanna confuse you with too much information, so skip this if it's not yet clear:
You could go to the car right now, initiate the test sequence, open / close the driver door six times, and immediately enter Test #6. You should hear that front left solenoid clicking, and thus prove to yourself it's working properly. Ditto for Test #7 and the front right solenoid.
While an individual wheel solenoid may be perfectly functional and OPEN, air cannot yet flow. The Vent Solenoid must also be open.
The Vent Solenoid, located in the pump, services all four wheel solenoids, and it allows air in and out of the four air springs.
If the VENT is open but a wheel solenoid is not working, no air can get into or out of that wheel. BOTH the vent and wheel solenoid must open for air to flow in either direction.
----
"I think both of my front solenoids may be bad is why I asking."
Run the tests in sequence. All four corners of the car will (should) rise on the first three tests.
If Test #2 and #3 are successful, the front corners will rise. That means the pump, the vent solenoid and both of the front wheel solenoids are functional.
-----
Test #6 is the first test that lowers a corner. (LH Front)
Since Test #6 opens both the VENT and LH Front wheel solenoids while the pump is OFF, the LH front corner will slowly lower itself (Air will escape).
Test #6 "proves" that the Left Hand Front wheel solenoid (and the vent solenoid) is operational.
The solenoids make a CLICK sound. The internal magnets are powerful and, if your hand is in close proximity, you can feel the vibration when they click open and closed.
-------
Run the tests. Leave the hood open and walk around the car while a test is running, so you can closely observe the results of that test.
-------------
-------------
I don't wanna confuse you with too much information, so skip this if it's not yet clear:
You could go to the car right now, initiate the test sequence, open / close the driver door six times, and immediately enter Test #6. You should hear that front left solenoid clicking, and thus prove to yourself it's working properly. Ditto for Test #7 and the front right solenoid.
fixed
I received my compressor last night and installed it on the car. The car is working perfectly, I am still going to do the tests to make sure the solenoids are doing what they are suppose to. I was sure the vent in the compressor was bad because I could not put any air in the schraeder valve and get the front to raise, it also would not make that noise it always did when it leveled out when you shut the door. Drives like a champ for now, forgot how smooth the ride is instead of beating me to death with the front end bottomed out. This is why I want to check the solenoids in the front is because I still think they might be stuck open and the one in the compressor is holding it up because it is working. Thanks again for all of your help as usual, I'll post what I found out once I get the tests done this weekend. Gramps
I received my compressor last night and installed it on the car. The car is working perfectly, I am still going to do the tests to make sure the solenoids are doing what they are suppose to. I was sure the vent in the compressor was bad because I could not put any air in the schraeder valve and get the front to raise, it also would not make that noise it always did when it leveled out when you shut the door. Drives like a champ for now, forgot how smooth the ride is instead of beating me to death with the front end bottomed out. This is why I want to check the solenoids in the front is because I still think they might be stuck open and the one in the compressor is holding it up because it is working. Thanks again for all of your help as usual, I'll post what I found out once I get the tests done this weekend. Gramps
"...because I could not put any air in the schraeder valve and get the front to raise..."
Regarding that Schrader valve..
Since each wheel solenoid is NC (normally closed), how could simply pushing air into the Schrader valve inflate a spring?
The air you provide could not get past the wheel solenoid unless it was electrically opened..
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For those who don't know, there's a little schraeder valve sticking out of the pump.
Why is that valve there? Does air normally go into it, or out of it?
My understanding is that the compressor and that valve can be used to INFLATE a bicycle tire.. or whatever..
I don't know how many CFM or PSI that compressor is capable of providing, nor whether it is safe to let it run for a long time, while filling a car tire, for instance....
Nor do I know how to deliberately run that pump for the expressed purpose of using the pump to inflate a tire.
Lacking such knowledge, I wouldn't mess around with that valve..
A couple years ago, when I researched parts, I talked to a guy (at American Suspension? ) who rebuilds and sells replacement pumps. He said his rebuilt pumps NO LONGER INCLUDE the Schrader valve.
He claimed customers were destroying pumps by using the valves incorrectly.
Regarding that Schrader valve..
Since each wheel solenoid is NC (normally closed), how could simply pushing air into the Schrader valve inflate a spring?
The air you provide could not get past the wheel solenoid unless it was electrically opened..
------------
For those who don't know, there's a little schraeder valve sticking out of the pump.
Why is that valve there? Does air normally go into it, or out of it?
My understanding is that the compressor and that valve can be used to INFLATE a bicycle tire.. or whatever..
I don't know how many CFM or PSI that compressor is capable of providing, nor whether it is safe to let it run for a long time, while filling a car tire, for instance....
Nor do I know how to deliberately run that pump for the expressed purpose of using the pump to inflate a tire.
Lacking such knowledge, I wouldn't mess around with that valve..
A couple years ago, when I researched parts, I talked to a guy (at American Suspension? ) who rebuilds and sells replacement pumps. He said his rebuilt pumps NO LONGER INCLUDE the Schrader valve.
He claimed customers were destroying pumps by using the valves incorrectly.