Aftermarket HID Install Question

Epwillis said:
Yea i thought about finding the best two stock screws i have left and using those i nthe bottom holes and then using the new ones in the top ones.
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If you still have a stock screw, why not measure it so you know what to get? And they may be metric, btw.
 
DLF said:
I didn't have any issues using my adapters and installing 9006 bulbs from DDM in Gen 1 HID housings, so I don't know what to tell you. :confused:

It would appear that there may be some variations in either the Gen 1 housings or the aftermarket HID bulbs.

I've sold over 160 pairs of my adapters, and these are the first issues that I've read about.
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Doug, I was really glad that they didn't fit up against the bulb tight because that allowed me to use the rubber that fits inside the entire hole and made me feel better, knowing I have a good seal. Didn't bother me any. For some reason though, there is apparently a difference with some housings. Some are just deeper than others but it's so little of a difference, the bulb is just loose but not enough to come out but not the kind of loose you would want to roll around with. It's not hard at all to cut that rubber grommet out to fit in between the bulb and adapter.
 
NoLimit95 said:
Doug, I was really glad that they didn't fit up against the bulb tight because that allowed me to use the rubber that fits inside the entire hole and made me feel better, knowing I have a good seal. Didn't bother me any. For some reason though, there is apparently a difference with some housings. Some are just deeper than others but it's so little of a difference, the bulb is just loose but not enough to come out but not the kind of loose you would want to roll around with. It's not hard at all to cut that rubber grommet out to fit in between the bulb and adapter.
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i believe the difference is in the bulbs and I too am glad i had to use a rubber piece, because it does give me a better seal.

But DLF's adapters are top notch quality, when i purchased them the pictures on the thread, they looked metal from the camera flash and when i received them and realized they were machined plastic, I was blown away. Great work Doug.
 
As long as everyone is satisfied, that's all that matters to me.
 
Look what i found:D

2012-09-25_13-56-03_579.jpg


with only one minor stress crack and it looks to be tight enough to not need the bottom screw:D:D
 
Epwillis said:
I think I'm gonna take my two best bottom screws and put them in the lower holes, just because there is less plastic around the bottom hole and i dont want to break it.
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can ya get a measurement off of em ? or something fo the rest of us who never had these screws to start with please.
 
93mkviii said:
Just use the rubber ring that is holding the HID bulb's wiring together. That is what I ended up doing and the ring seems almost designed to fit in there.
Painting the reflector IMO might lead to trouble unless someone has done it with good results on here. I don't know whether they left it unpainted because it was cheaper to just paint from one side or did they leave it unpainted because a direct reflection of the light would cause the paint to diminish? We know that HID arc burns much hotter than that of halogen coil but it creates much less radiant heat so it should be safer than using halogens.
Also, the whole debate on 55w vs 35w. The 55w tend to heat the housing more than the 35w but this got me to thinking. When they designed the housing it was designed for halogens also, which create much more radiant heat. It's not like the materials made for the halogen part of the housing is different than that of the HID part. So technically it should be able to sustain the heat of a 55w kit, yes?
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This must just be an issue with your hid kit you bought, the bulb housing must be slightly shorter causing it to be loose, mine fit snug in the housings with using dlf's adapters and just silicone.
 
Trippen Out said:
awesome thanks. dont need that many tho. ill pay pal you 1 dollar if ya send me 6 with washers :)
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ill tell ya what send me 3$ and you got a deal because the washers themselves were 1.00$ at the hardware store, that will cover postage too, ill pop them in a ziplock bag and drop them in the mail
 
So, to make a long story endless, I should be able to plug my HID kit directly into each headlamp connector but with the polarities reversed (?) and have them work fine? Really? I didn't mind running them fused and relayed to the battery, but that leaves one headlight sensor thinking that it's fritzed. Does it matter? Thanks!
 
Hot*Mk8 said:
So, to make a long story endless, I should be able to plug my HID kit directly into each headlamp connector but with the polarities reversed (?) and have them work fine? Really? I didn't mind running them fused and relayed to the battery, but that leaves one headlight sensor thinking that it's fritzed. Does it matter? Thanks!
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There shouldn't be a "headlight connector" on a Gen 2, unless it was retro-fitted with halogen lenses/bulbs or somebody did something under the shade of a tree. :rolleyes:

On a Gen 2, the aftermarket ballasts should be connected to the feeds that originally fed the OEM ballasts. The first two pics show these connectors which are located in the plastic wiring trough that runs at the bottom of the radiator support. I made two plug-and-play harnesses using the connectors from the OEM ballasts and the wiring that comes with the aftermarket HID bulbs.

HPIM4362.jpg


HPIM4364.jpg


HPIM1032.jpg


HPIM1034.jpg


HPIM1038.jpg
 
Aaahhh!!! The car was converted to halogen, that's why I have headlight connectors. Seems like it just should have made the job easier, though, not more difficult. Hmm. Shoulda worked.

hid.jpg
 
Hot*Mk8 said:
Aaahhh!!! The car was converted to halogen, that's why I have headlight connectors. Seems like it just should have made the job easier, though, not more difficult. Hmm. Shoulda worked.
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Even if it was converted, the original connectors that I pictured above should still be there.

I think the biggest issue that you have is that you bought the wrong aftermarket HID kit.

A simple 9006 digital slim ballast kit, without a relay harness or anything else, is all that you needed. 2 each of what you see in the pictures, nothing more.

When you switch on the high beams, do the low beams go out? That would indicate that the HID SCIL was swapped for a halogen SCIL as part of a factory halogen retro-fit kit.

digitalslimballast.jpg


HPIM1029.jpg
 
No, my high beams work properly. I'm pretty sure the kit came with both wiring options as well. The PO was a do-it-yourselfer with many things including the blend door arm. The only factory retrofit was a tranny cooler as there's a sticker to indicate as much. It's really not a big deal as the lights work fine, but it is an irritation. Thanks so much for all of your input! I promise to post pics and a solution when it occurs.
 
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