97 Mark VIII Won't Start

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Regarding a 97 Lincoln Mark VIII base model ...

After having a new battery (3/13) out of the car for 6 months, the battery was reinstalled.

All the electrical items work (i.e., headlights, radio, etc.) and the air suspension will inflate.

However, the engine will not turn over and there is no clicking when the ignition is turned.

The battery is reading 12.7 volts and is still charging now.

Any ideas ?
 
yep, have someone hold the key in crank and thump the starter with a hammer.
if that works, you need a new starter, or at least a solenoid.
 
What is the anti-theft light doing when you attempt to start it and nothing happens? What does it do when you have the key in the ignition and turned to run?
 
Thanks for the quick responses.

Have hammer, will smash.

What's the best way to replace the starter on a 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII base ?

If the starter has to be replaced, is the AC Delco 337-1048 a good brand ? Preference would be for a model with at least a limited lifetime warranty.
 
If you do not hear the solenoid clicking upon ignition, the cause could be a bad SCIL module.
 
Just a moderate tap will do - you're trying to loosen an arced copper contact. I would suspect the anti-theft if you have no sound whatsoever when turning key. Good luck.
 
I recently replaced a starter (original 275,000 miles) after brutal cold winter and purchased a new Remy brand starter, also can anyone explain if I had battery removed from vehicle for 4 months would this cause me to have to reprogram my keys? my Pats key on my 97 that started my car in January is not transmitting and the other 2 keys I have will crank vehicle but not start it. A locksmith told me that the key I mentioned that started vehicle prior to any issues is no longer good and the other 2 keys are encrypted but maybe need to be reprogramed to my vehicle. Also note my battery is brand new along with replacement of terminal connections at battery. just a footnote the top starter bolt was nasty to get off used a 20 inch extension through fender/frame and a lot of seafoam deep creep to help get bolt lose.
 
Adams97Mark said:
I recently replaced a starter (original 275,000 miles) after brutal cold winter and purchased a new Remy brand starter, also can anyone explain if I had battery removed from vehicle for 4 months would this cause me to have to reprogram my keys? my Pats key on my 97 that started my car in January is not transmitting and the other 2 keys I have will crank vehicle but not start it. A locksmith told me that the key I mentioned that started vehicle prior to any issues is no longer good and the other 2 keys are encrypted but maybe need to be reprogramed to my vehicle. Also note my battery is brand new along with replacement of terminal connections at battery. just a footnote the top starter bolt was nasty to get off used a 20 inch extension through fender/frame and a lot of seafoam deep creep to help get bolt lose.
Click to expand...

If the key will crank the car, then it is still "programmed". With the 97/98 Marks, the PATS disables the starter (which is not the same as others, like my 2000 Grand Marquis will still crank but not start, but panthers starting in 2003 won't crank).
 
Thanks Bangster, I had a feeling that was the function of pats key. I just got bad info from locksmith and I did get it started (engine was flooded from multi cranks) but soon reinforced what I originally thought was the second issue after starter, and that being a bad ignition switch/lock cylinder. I will replace both and post back here for those who have a crank but not start issues. One last question if someone can chime in and thats if I keep the pats keys that now work and replace cylinder and switch would I need to reprogram keys. The reason being is I will have locksmith just replace cylinder with rebuild kit allowing me to reuse original keys.
 
They are programmed into the SCIL and not the switch, so reprogramming wont be needed. Only thing at the switch is the antenna.
 
Bangster,

The Anti-theft system blinks as normal on opening the door as well as when attempting to start the engine. When the key is removed and the door is closed, the Anti-theft system light eventually goes out.

Thanks for the idea.
 
Everyone,

After using a tester on the wire that connects to the starter, it checks out good.

After using a screwdriver to connect the 2 leads on the solenoid, the engine now starts.

So it would appear the solenoid is bad. Since the solenoid requires the starter to be removed, the starter will be replaced at the same time with a new Remy model. It's the original starter, so it's as good a time as any to replace it.

Thanks for all the help !
 
Before I begin, are there any tips for replacing the starter ?

I've purchased a universal joint with a couple of socket extensions which should make it easier.
 
That's why I prefer my older Ford trucks in that regard that have the solenoid mounted to the fender separate from the starter.

Makes starting your car with a screwdriver much easier and no crawling involved as well!
 
Denna if you are not using lift I would recommend removing passenger tire and come through wheel well using a 3/8 drive 20" extension with swivel on a 6 point deep well. I actually used a 1/2" drive ratchet for better torque and leverage along with lots of deep creep lube. Be sure to use short strokes on ratchet to avoid snapping top bolt which is a nightmare to reach. Be sure to set socket and extension on bolt so that as you turn it will stay on center and not twist off into un-parralel angle. Having extra pair of hands is recommended seeing that you will be on your back with one hand on ratchet while the other will be used to keep extension straight as noted.
 
Adams97Mark said:
Yes Daniel I do have that milage on my mark viii which maybe closer to 280,000 miles now.
Click to expand...

Im shocked! I figured 189k was the average. You must really have been up on the maintenance! If I had fabricating skills I'd make you a sweet cobra star 300k badge!
 
Adams97Mark,

Thanks for the detailed response.

No lift - just using a jack and two jack stands.

So far I've gotten the solenoid wires disconnected by getting under the starter.

I'll try going through the passenger wheel well tomorrow.
 
Adams97Mark,

When you said to come through the wheel well, did you mean removing the black wheel well cover ?
 
Denna said:
The solenoid is disconnected and the (2) bottom bolts are off.

However, removing the top bolt is proving difficult and I'm concerned the bolt will be rounded off.

I was thinking of using a 3/8" flexible extension like the one below.

http://tetoolsusa.com/tools/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=280_293_378_234&products_id=108

Does anyone have a better idea ?
Click to expand...
Use a knuckle or swivel.
meFA69pQ_QMt8yf3mSELwCw.jpg

Use with a long extension and you can get it, if car is rust free.....drop the exhaust on that side.
 
Yes remove black wheel well cover and use 20 inch extension along with swivel on 6 point socket. That flex extension will not give you angle nor do you have room to position it to get that top bolt off. You need to come through the frame at the 10:00/11:00 angle and use extension to then come back in opposite direction using the swivel on 6 point deep well socket.
 
Ok here is followup to my no start condition: 1) replaced starter due to internal grounding of hot lead to starter chassis. 2) battery was borderline and not giving enough CCA below certain temps so I replaced with new. 3) replaced ignition switch actuator which was completely malfunctioning and causing crank but no start. I would like to note that the battery was 6-7 years old and starter as well as ignition switch were original (279,000 miles). If anyone needs further clarifications on trouble shooting send me a email and I would be happy to give some guidance.
 
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