96 Mark won't start intermittently
- Thread starter 98LSC32V
- Start date
unity
Dedicated LVC Member
Could be. A voltage check would be a start, lets make sure your putting out enough. Either the starter solenoid is shot (likely) or you have a bad connection.
The solenoid can be purchased separate from the starter but not all places sell them separately. But I am going to recommend OEM on this one.
The solenoid can be purchased separate from the starter but not all places sell them separately. But I am going to recommend OEM on this one.
Yeah That Starter is sold sep. from the solenoid...most parts stores can just sell you a solenoid for a 5.0 mustang same :q:q:q:q...mount it on ur fender or w.e and works just the same...prob around $30 for a top of the line solenoid....
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
does 96 have PATS? (chip key)
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
it depends on what car, some will even start and run for 3 sec
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
The '96 does not have PATS. If the anti-theft is triggered it will not crank.
dRock95MarkVIII
Well-Known LVC Member
First check the starter interrupt relay (for the anti-theft)
Either swap it with another or just jump the #30 and #87 pins on the relay base.
If it now cranks, it's the relay, wiring to it or the anti-theft system has a fault.
If still no go, hook up a multi-meter to the starter solenoid turn-on terminal and ground. Turn the ignition to start. If you have B+ at the terminal, bad connection or bum starter or solenoid. A tap with a hammer will typically get it going TEMPORARILY. Make sure connection is clean and solid. 96+ typically are ok but -95 modulars had a cruddy spade temrinal here which gets corroded and such.
If no voltage at solenoid turn on w/ ignition on START, do the same test but at the MLPS (R/LB wire for starter in, W/PK out)
If voltage going into the MLPS with ignition on START but none out, bad MLPS (which also functions as the neutral safety switch)
If voltage in and out, there is a wiring issue between MLPS and starter solenoid.
Let me know if you'd like a diagram
Either swap it with another or just jump the #30 and #87 pins on the relay base.
If it now cranks, it's the relay, wiring to it or the anti-theft system has a fault.
If still no go, hook up a multi-meter to the starter solenoid turn-on terminal and ground. Turn the ignition to start. If you have B+ at the terminal, bad connection or bum starter or solenoid. A tap with a hammer will typically get it going TEMPORARILY. Make sure connection is clean and solid. 96+ typically are ok but -95 modulars had a cruddy spade temrinal here which gets corroded and such.
If no voltage at solenoid turn on w/ ignition on START, do the same test but at the MLPS (R/LB wire for starter in, W/PK out)
If voltage going into the MLPS with ignition on START but none out, bad MLPS (which also functions as the neutral safety switch)
If voltage in and out, there is a wiring issue between MLPS and starter solenoid.
Let me know if you'd like a diagram
gmoney
LVC Member
Starter.
peter
New LVC Member
won't start?
i had a same problem with my 98 lm8 and fixed it. just get rid of the factory battery cable (pieces that connect battery to wires) and replace with new ones selling at pep boys and auto zone.
i had a same problem with my 98 lm8 and fixed it. just get rid of the factory battery cable (pieces that connect battery to wires) and replace with new ones selling at pep boys and auto zone.
Look on the starter, there is a BIG RED wire bolted to the solenoid.
AND there is a smaller gauge (black I belive wire) that has a "press on" connector.
mine had corroded pretty badly causing an intermittant "no start, no noise, no nada" situation.
what I did was just pull that connector off.. and plug it back in (crank sensor trick) and the car fired up!
SO then I pulled the connector off and cleaned the CRAP off it.. and haven't had a problem since.
Might not be the soleniod..might just be that crappy little "Lee press on" connector
hope this helps
AND there is a smaller gauge (black I belive wire) that has a "press on" connector.
mine had corroded pretty badly causing an intermittant "no start, no noise, no nada" situation.
what I did was just pull that connector off.. and plug it back in (crank sensor trick) and the car fired up!
SO then I pulled the connector off and cleaned the CRAP off it.. and haven't had a problem since.
Might not be the soleniod..might just be that crappy little "Lee press on" connector
hope this helps