96 IMRC rebuild!!

Sapperfire

Sapperfire

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Right side controller taken apart (very carefully)

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Torn diaphragm

It appears that the only difference between these and all the ones from prior years is the electronic top, the valve body is exactly the same, so they can be rebuilt using a good diaphragm from another one

One of our members has a grounded vehicle waiting on this part, let's see if I can work some Sapper magic and get him rolling again
 
Yup, they are the same. The wires are just part of the ODBII system to make sure they are operating.

Cools pics. Never saw pics posted of this procedure before!
 
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Cleaned and conditioned the replacement diaphragm

Put together and recrimped

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Push rod down and place finger over vacuum hole, should raise very very slowly, the large spring will overcome vacuum, but just barely

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Release finger, valve opens

Apply some silicone around the body over the crimp just for extra sealant measure...and done :)
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As long as a leaking diaphram is your only problem. If it also has a broken sensor, you :q:q:q:q out of luck.
 
They should hold vacuum until released, not leak down. You won't be able to adjust them properly if they leak down fwiw...
 
Nice write up. I sent a set out to some one who is researching getting the bellows,so we will see if they are successful.
 
Psychostang said:
As long as a leaking diaphram is your only problem. If it also has a broken sensor, you :q:q:q:q out of luck.
Click to expand...

I have 3 sets (both sides), they are getting hard to find. I have been lucky to have found them in local pick-a-parts.
 
Not like my finger is all that great of a vacuum source! Vacuum doesn't just pull it open and then hold it, it continues to pull as long as the throttle is applied. This is just a test run to see if I could even rebuild them

So should it not move at all, even with just my finger holding the valve? I would like a confirm from someone else that has one out of a car already

If that's the case, then I could put some RTV around the edge of the diaphragm inside the housing as well, where it's more than likely a leak down from a weak crimp
 
Don't know about the finger test, but on the set that I sold recently, I put the MityVac on it, and pumped it up to 11 inches vacuum, and it just stayed there for as long as I felt like watching it. You might wanna try that if you've got one...
 
I've got a Vacula for removing fluids, but it doesn't have a meter on it
 
Yes, your finger probably isnt the best seal on there. Have any rubber gloves, that would porbably work better to check, or get a gauge/pump?
 
Too late, already shipped it... Have another coming my way for a rebuild since I have a set of fresh ones on my 93, well see soon if I did it good enough
 
so the 'good' diaphragm must come from a 93,4,5? I think Windstars used an IMRC as well- different linkage but the pod may be the same
 
The actuation rod needs to be the same length, and the diaphragm needs to be the proper diameter
There's a couple ways to approach the difference of rod length.. either cut and weld the rod to fit, or remake the bracket

The one I'm working on now, I'll have to cut the extra length off the bad 96 diaphragm assembly, snip off the bend on the donor assembly and tack what I need together
 
.. which would then require a tune.. and replacing intake gaskets
 
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