40 below radiator additive

Dexcool is so bad that even people who work for GM don't use it.

Dexcool, better known as OAT (Organic Acid Technology) has a ton of silicates in it designed to protect an iron block.

Ford's HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant has all of the advantages of an organic acid, but NO SILICATES. You are far better off using Ford's HOAT than anything coming from GM.

And yes, Dexcool does cause sludging. GM themselves has acknowledged this and has had well more than a few recalls and TSBs about exactly that situation.

HOAT coolants were specifically developed by Chrysler, Ford, VW, Toyota, Honda, Audi, BMW, Porsche, and other companies specifically for the purpose of being a silicate free coolant. If you are using Dexcool, you are adding silicates to your engine for no reason at all, and these silicates are designed to bond to metal for protection against corrosion, but have no effects on an aluminum block, so what you end up with is silicates floating around your engine with nothing to stick to, but themselves, which leads to clogging of your radiator's passages, and the heater core.

Those of you who use Dexcool, and also complain about overheating in your Mark VIII's might want to re-examine your situation.
 
Thanks for the info Dominus,
I will have to look into this, I tend to over maintain with only the best stuff I can get.
Raoul

By the way does it have to be Ford coolant or will Prestone and the like fill the bill?
 
I have never had ANY sludge problems, I flush my system every 2 years and I don't have a overheating problem. it was 108 degrees again today with 60% humidity and my temp gauge only goes up to the half way mark. that's why I say the sludge build up is due to lack of proper maintenance.
 
Yes with an if, and no with a but. I personally know 2 GM techs who own GM cars, and neither of them will let Dexcool touch their cars.

Like I said before, it is not necessary. Your engine does not need silicates, nor can it benefit from it. You might as well be gold plating your oil filters, or polishing your valve covers with peanut butter.

Silicates = Bad
 
well I have not had any problems with it, but next time I flush it I will use Prestone or MotorCraft AF. I have always used distilled water too, I think tap water causes problems too. btw there are only 2 makers of ethylene glycol, BASF and Union Carbide.
 
Yeah, the distilled water is a VERY good idea.

I'm thinking of just switching over to the NPG (nonaqueous propylene glycol) that I use in the Charger. I can't make this car overheat. Not if I tried.

That's a good thing when you own a classic, because most big block Mopars are extremely prone to overheating.

Knock on wood!
 
Sierra. They sell it at Pep Boys. With the proper mixture (about 50/50), you can have a boiling point of 250 degrees. And yes, contrary to popular belief, it is better to have a high boiling point and remove more heat from your engine, than it is to have a lower one and have a cooler coolant temp.

It has a slight advantage in boiling point over ethylene glycol, but the boiling point of NPG is over 280 degrees, and the cooling system doesn't need to be pressurized.

40 Below is a pretty good product. It has genuine results.
 
Dominus said:
Yeah, the distilled water is a VERY good idea.

I'm thinking of just switching over to the NPG (nonaqueous propylene glycol) that I use in the Charger. I can't make this car overheat. Not if I tried.

That's a good thing when you own a classic, because most big block Mopars are extremely prone to overheating.

Knock on wood!
sorry about that I didn't see that you already mentioned it, DuuuuuuuuHHHH!!!
 
Dominus, green coolant contains silicates. Dexcool does not. Dexcool contains the organic acid corrosion inhibitors 2-ethylhexanoic acid and sebacate.

The silicates in green coolant essentially plate the inside of the coolant passages, but Dex doesn't. This is why cast iron engines corrode when Dex is used and the coolant level drops low enough to allow air in.
 
MediumD said:
Dominus, green coolant contains silicates.

Who said anything about green coolant? I specifically said Ford's HOAT. HOAT is NOT ethylene glycol (green coolant), and HOAT does NOT have silicates in it.

Dexcool does not.

You get Dexcool with no silicates only if you buy the bottles that speifically say no silicates. But even then, Dexcool is a crappy coolant. Can you say "Dexcool Class ACtion Lawsuit"?
 
Dominus said:
I'm thinking of just switching over to the NPG (nonaqueous propylene glycol) that I use in the Charger. I can't make this car overheat. Not if I tried.

I just wanted to interject here. I fully support NPG. I have it in my Mustang which used to overheat like crazy (I mean the car has seen 300 degrees before, and buried my Autometer gauge).

The Evans NPG is really quite amazing. I was very skeptical (I'm extremely skeptical of all the BS manufacturer claims floating around) - but this stuff really works. My mustang has a stock water pump with stock ratio pulley, two-core aluminum fluidyne, Mark VIII fan in a custom shroud, no t-stat, -20AN upper radiator hose and stock lower, with all the bypasses blocked.

This car won't get above 190 degrees unless I turn the fan off. I live in Phoenix where the air temp yesterday was 113 degrees. Since Phoenix is consistently one of the hottest cities in the country - if it will live here, it will live anywhere.

Paul.


PS - Dexcool is crap. There is a wealth of information to support that claim.

I also don't think magical coolant additives do much of anything. I've tried them all and they've never made a difference in anything I've owned.
 
Dominus said:
Who said anything about green coolant? I specifically said Ford's HOAT. HOAT is NOT ethylene glycol (green coolant), and HOAT does NOT have silicates in it.



You get Dexcool with no silicates only if you buy the bottles that speifically say no silicates. But even then, Dexcool is a crappy coolant. Can you say "Dexcool Class ACtion Lawsuit"?

I said something about green coolant. What, am I not allowed to talk about green coolant?

Dex works fine if all the system ever sees is Dex and is properly maintained and changed on schedule. I wouldn't use it in a car that didn't come with it, but that's all I use on those that did.
 
I think you should use whatever the factory recomends. I'm sure that is the best option.
 
Dr. Paul said:
I think I paid $26 p/gallon for the Evans stuff.

Same here. No complaints at all. I run a stock style 1968 radiator, and a clutch fan on an engine easily within 900+ HP, and I can sit in traffic on a 100+ degree day with no problems at all.
 
It is no simple matter that it came about that way. I credit 80% of the car's drivability to digital EFI, and the rest to good thinking.

The clutch used to be a B!TCH, but since converting to a hydraulic actuator, things have become a hell of a lot easier.

Alas, it is much easier to drive my Lincolns around the city than my Charger, so it stays garaged most of the time.
 
Dominus said:
Same here. No complaints at all. I run a stock style 1968 radiator, and a clutch fan on an engine easily within 900+ HP, and I can sit in traffic on a 100+ degree day with no problems at all.

What's the setup on the car? :D

What management are you using? I have an AEM, it's okay, but I wish I had a FAST XFI instead. :(
 
Dr. Paul said:
What's the setup on the car? :D

What management are you using? I have an AEM, it's okay, but I wish I had a FAST XFI instead. :(

Just a turbo Hemi. That's all. ;)

I'm using Big Stuff 3. Love it to death!
 

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