3.73 gears or 4.10

NetKeym said:
Those tires are EXACTLY 26 inches tall (before you start wearing them down) :shifty:
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Well they won't lose much height before they're down to the cords.;) They have a lot less tread than a street tire does even when brand new. So it's a lose-lose situation there because they're still $460/set, BUT they hook like a sonofayouknowhat at the track. I run street tires when I'm not at the track because they cost just too damn much. They will hook like crazy all the way down to the cords though, so you do get full hook out of them during their entire shorter life span.
 
chart

The object of the chart was a reference in rpm gain between gear sets - i had to pick 2 numbers - mph and tire diameter,,, that i did as a random ---- if you have half an interest in cars and a computer you can get your exact rpm - that's not the point - it's the rpm loss or gain between gear sets - that will stay close to the same,,, now stop whining.
 
so my 4.10s are in on monday and i also have a trac lok on the way. what else do i need? i know i need a 93 or a custom 1 piece DS. do i need a gear for the trans or do i need to get a tuner, or a dallas mustangs speeld cal?
 
mossbergman said:
so my 4.10s are in on monday and i also have a trac lok on the way. what else do i need? i know i need a 93 or a custom 1 piece DS. do i need a gear for the trans or do i need to get a tuner, or a dallas mustangs speeld cal?
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What year is your car? You will need gear set up package. As a min it comes with crush coller,pinion nut,shims gear marking compound. Some FORD gear I buy came with crush coller. I like to buy and have in hand "adjustable diff shim kit" These are the big shims that move diff left to right in housing. Ford stock ones are one piece shims and only work in one set up only. These are the ones I zip tied to the bearings when I sent them to you.
 
thanks frank thats something i didnt even think about. my car is a 97. i planned on taking all the parts to a local shop and having them assemble it since im not comfortable doing some of the shimming and stuff myself. what set up package should i buy?
 
mossbergman said:
thanks frank thats something i didnt even think about. my car is a 97. i planned on taking all the parts to a local shop and having them assemble it since im not comfortable doing some of the shimming and stuff myself. what set up package should i buy?
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If your bring it to a gear shop they should have all the little parts that I mentioned on hand. Or you can bring it to them and they will tell you what to buy. I use Yukon and Rahtech for parts. And yes good idea to let pro do gears, to set up correct is drawn out.
 
i dont have a tuner so a $20 gear is alot more attractive than a 200$ and a dynotune(for now anyway :D)
 
in the long run, you will want a tuner.
i'm not sure how a gen 2 deals with the gear change.
a gen 1 just shifts earlier since shift points are based on rpm.
i used the gear to correct the speedo.
the gen 2s do the speedo differently.
gear it, then see how it runs. put the gear in if you want, but i just suggest saving up for a tuner.
 
i dont think youll have any problems aside from speedo gear which your doing, your shift points will just stay where they are until you get a programmer or take to get tuned,
but heres the diff.
if you take it for a tune, then add something else, headers,mass air, remove cats youll have to go back each time.for what its worth i got the sniper programmer and have been playing around with it and learning and having fun in the process. when you've done all you can do then go have the car dynotuned.or you just might not need it and be ok,but i like my sniper and it has real time data logging, code reading and clearing. talk to geno at LMS. your rpms are going to come quicker but its still going to shift where it did before and with the same jump im making to 4.10 youll feel it for sure.
 
The 97-98 marks computer adjusts for the gear change and the speedo will stay the same as long as you dont go over 4.10's (with an LSC) and retain the facotry tire height.

Any numerical gear change of or about +/- 1 from its stock gear of 3.07 or 3.27 will need a tune to adjust speedo, but within that range the stock computer should be able to adjust for it on the gen2's as i've heard 4.30s make the speed wrong, 410s do not.


I know my speedo stayed correct and the shift points were fine with and without a tune. I do not drag with OD on and only count how it shifts @ WOT from a dead stop. Shifts great stock with a JMOD right off the rev limiter every time.

I also ran a sniper tuner and 410s playing with the shift firmness/points you can really dial it in and make shifting much more crisp/fast over stock and where exactly you want it.



Recently sold that software, i picked up an SCT X3 tuner and had Torrie write me these 3 tunes that improve throttle response, shifting, and still give me better fuel economy then without a tune...depending on how heavy my foot is, i opted OUT of having an economy tune made, as I always use 93 octane fuel -



93 Octane tune-
behaves close to stock with the all the benefits of having a tune.

93 performance -
perfect for a DD - huge difference over stock and great for the street

93 aggressive -
car rips and shifts like a raped ape. I love it, but not necessary for every day driving. That can be saved for runs on the track. :cool:
 
93 shaft should be Ok if you are staying under 100mph.
Get it balanced.
An after market 4 inch shaft is better, a drive train shop can make one.
Get a tune to get the most from the gear change.
SCT> sniper.

Have fun!
Your going to love your new Mark....4.10s will wake it up.
 
Right on the Mark said:
What year is your car? You will need gear set up package. As a min it comes with crush coller,pinion nut,shims gear marking compound. Some FORD gear I buy came with crush coller. I like to buy and have in hand "adjustable diff shim kit" These are the big shims that move diff left to right in housing. Ford stock ones are one piece shims and only work in one set up only. These are the ones I zip tied to the bearings when I sent them to you.
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The standard 8.8 install kit will work. The only thing you would need on top of that is the side bearings/seals.
 
Rich88LSC said:
The standard 8.8 install kit will work. The only thing you would need on top of that is the side bearings/seals.
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Was something in my last post that didn't state that? You can buy install kits in basic kit and kit that includes basics and all new bearings. Like mentioned I always have on hand adj side shim kit. Like Rich mentioned the side axle bearing seals will not come in any kit. The housing I set Moss the seal where not leaking at all but new seals nice. I had a little hard time finding correct side seals at parts stores FYI.
 
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